to stud or not to stud

[Norsky]

I purchased a yamaha vt500xl (2up) this past March and I was wondering if I should stud the track. I'll primarily use this for ice fishing (pulling a portable). Will this wear out the track in just a few years or doesn't it make much of a difference? thanks much.

[Guest]

If you stud it, it wont wear out the track that fast. If you really beat up on ur sled your track wont last that long. Especially if your tearing lots of studs out of the tracks. But if you don't do all that wicked stuff it should last for a long time (Like ofver 10 years).

The only reason I don't have my sled studded is b/c you cant ride on paved trails. And thats one thing I do since my dad lives close to one and also b/c is goes past the lake I always fish, so I usually take the trail a lot.

But if its just being used for ice fishing, I would definitely stud the track. No doubt about it. Then it works great on glare ice and if the ice is thin and it breaks, you at least have a good chance of getting out with you and your sled.
On glare ice studs make a HUGE difference.

------------------
Fish ON!

[This message has been edited by PikeEye (edited 11-10-2003).]

[Surface Tension]

If you stud you'll need a Metal traction device (stud) permit also, yes even on lakes. Good for 1 year and cost is $13 + $1 filing fee.

[Stiff]

I'm inclined to think it would be a good idea to get some studs installed. Is there any downside to them? Is there a particular pattern that should be followed? I've seen most istalled in a series of "V" patterns. I've seen a few others that are installed in straight lines. Is that for easier turning?

[Surface Tension]

Yes theres a pattern along with the proper number of studs, it depends on what sled you have and cc's. You can find the info at most shops that sell studs.

Downside is what was mentioned earlier and thats some paved trails are closed to studs and having to purchase a Stud Permit every year. It all depends on the type of riding your going to do. Studs are good for groomed trails and ice. Maybe a paddle track fits your riding, great for loose snow and slush.

[Guest]

I would go with the "V" pattern. I think that will give you more traction and better handling.
Like ST said, "You can find the info at most shops that sell studs." Thats what I would do first.
GL and go with the studs, IMO.

------------------
Fish ON!

[pj4]

i would recomend the 96 stud pattern for your sled, also recomend to have a shop install them for you. if you do it on your own, you will need a special bit to drill the holes( approx. 18 dollars) and the pattern to lay on the track for placement of holes. no it does not wear out the track, abuse does that.myself would never go on the ice with out studs for safety reasons and the ease of pulling the shack.

[Guest]

The thing I don't like about the trail grabbers is: on ice you really shouldn't be doing any "hole shots" or fast acceleration b/c they wont do anything but scratch the ice and probably tear. After you think of it you spin your track a lot (w/out studs) from acceleration; and if you have those trail grabbers on and your track is spinning then they are just more prone to tearing out. Thats my opinion.
Same with those Plastic Studs that came out. If you ride on paved trails a lot or just tar/cement then they are not the thing to get either. And they just help for riding on paved trails and really, do no good on ice. Thats my opinion.
If your sled is new and/or in good shape, get some good carbide studs b/c they will last a long time then. My dad had some that lasted on his sled for 6 years, they were wore down pretty good but thats most likely b/c they took a pretty good beating.

------------------
Fish ON!

[Stiff]

I bought a trailer earlier this fall... Oh yeah, when I got it home my wife noticed that it came equipped with a '97 Polaris 700 Ultra (two up, long track). Oops, sorry honey. Some deals are too good to walk away from. Plus I really did need the trailer. ;-p

Anyway, I plan to use the sled mostly for fishing so studs seem like a great addition. How much would it cost to have a shop install them ? – Let’s say 96. Are there any shops that are clearly better (honest / more reliable) than others? Are there others that should be avoided? I’m up in the Blaine / Shoreview area.

[Guest]

Another thing is I would put in more than 96 studs. Maybe around 120 or even a little more. Now I think you wouldnt want to go more than 200. I know of a buddy that put in I think 212 studs. That was a lot, his track for sure wasnt going to slip LOL.

------------------
Fish ON!

[Steve Bakken]

Most places that sell studs have recommendations on how many to install based on your cc's and your front carbide length. So be sure to ask their recommendation and to have that information for them when you ask. There is such thing as too many studs for certain applications.

------------------
Steve @ Bakken's Boat Shop www.bakkensboatshop.com

[legendelite]

Just an option for studs is a "Trail Grabber". Their made by Bergstrom Skegs and can be viewed on their HSOforum.

Not sure if you can post websites here, so just type in Bergstrom Skegs from Google.

[Gissert]

When setting us a sled with studs, it is important to be sure you do not under stud. A general rule of thumb is to use about 1 stud per hp. With your Ultra, I would not go less than 144, and would lean toward 168.

If you decide to go with 96, be very gentle with your acceleration. With that few studs in a machine with that amount hp, there is a real chance of overloading the studs. This could cause snapped studs and pull throughs.

I have an XCR 600 with 144 studs and an XC 700 with 168. The XCR has about 6k miles, and I have lost five studs. These losses came on a very rocky trail in upper Michigan with marginal snow. Totally my fault. The XC has 3k miles and I have lost no studs.

THe v-patterns mentioned above is good advise. Woody's has patterns for numerous number applications. Try to get as many individual scratch lines as possible. While using the V pattern, offset the each V a little bit from the others. This keeps the studs from all running in the same line, which will greatly enhance your stopping power.

Studding is not particularly a cheap thing to do, but installing them yourself is not really that difficult. Plan ahead, draw your pattern out on paper first, and use a good track cutting bit.

I will not run a sled with out studs, as they provide such good stopping power and control.

[Diezel350]

All very good advice here.
I will put in my .02 I don't think anyone mentioned this yet but pattern is very important. No, you don't need to go out and buy a pre fab pattern plate from someone just lay out your pattern ahead of time. 96 studs would be plenty if you are not using the sled for really aggressive driving, this is the ammount that all snowcross riders use. place the studs down the center of the track (between the hy-fax)in your chosen pattern. for improved acceleration. Place studs outside of the hy-fax for improved cornering, if you want (don't get too close to the edge of the track or they will tear for sure).

Gissert, I agree, I will not run a sled that is not studded either.
I have three sleds all have 144 studs put em in myself and have lost only a couple due to rocks/conditions.
They are not hard to install (just time consuming) and most of the time when you buy the studs they will throw in the track bit for free.
Hope my ramblings helped a bit.
Diezel

[Stiff]

What about shape of the studs?

Some look very long and sharp (needle - like). Other are not quite so long and more "peg like". Still other are chisel shaped. I'm guessing the shorter ones have less of a tendency to pull out since there would be less leverage on each individual stud.

What are the different applications for each shape? What shape is considered "best"? and why?

[Steve Bakken]

The best thing to do is to call and talk to the customer service or tech line at the stud company or catalog that your ordering from. They're the experts and their job is to find out your riding style and counsel you on the best stud for your particular needs. They should be able to answer all of your questions about style, size, etc.

------------------
Steve @ Bakken's Boat Shop www.bakkensboatshop.com