Roofing question

[LwnmwnMan2]

I'm roofing my house this weekend and the question I have is this.....

Where the old ice and water was, I am going to pull up that section of decking

Can I use chipboard to replace? Or should it be plywood?

I also have a couple of sheets that dip. I'm assuming I should replace those as well?

[birdswacker]

Use plywood and make sure you get H clips between rafters.

[chad austin]

You can use whatever you would like whether it be OSB or plywood for the sheathing. It really comes down to personal preference, just make sure it is the same thickness as the rest of the sheathing on the roof. H clips are a must.

As far as the other sheets that dip, I would personally replace them.

Keep in mind that any imperfections you see with the sheathing will telegraph through the shingles and you will see them on the final product.

I just want to throw it out there, that the sheathing does not need to be cut back where the old I&W was. You can put the new stuff right over the old stuff. I am assuming that some of the old shingles are stuck to the I&W?

What type of shingles are you putting on? 3-tab or Architectural? Just curious.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Yes, we have chunks of old shingles we can't get off.

Some of the pieces that have dips are at the I&W.

We are putting on Owen's Corning Tru Definition, Driftwood.

More of the fact the wife liked the "look" of those as much as anything else.

Figured now that we have a weekend of 70's, no wind, no rain, get this thing done, right?

Biggest thing I've peeved about with the I&W is we were going to leave the drip edge, as the old tar paper / I&W was on top. Now with ripping off this much plywood on the edges, we're going to have to replace the drip edge.

Not that it costs alot, just more time.

[chad austin]

I'm actually re-roofing my house this weekend too, held out for the weather as well. Make sure when you are putting the drip edge on to pull it back just enough that the face of the drip edge is making contact with the fascia. It wouldn't hurt to either have someone look at it from the ground or get down every couple of pieces and take a look yourself. Loose drip edge can make a great roofing project look bad if it's not tight. Not trying to scare you but rather give you a heads up. Good luck with your project.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Thanks.

This will be the 5th roof I and my buddies have done. As I said, we already have 1/2 of the roof already clean down to the plywood.

Shingles and tar paper are on site, I'm running for the plywood, I&W, nails, small supplies in the morning after I run a load of debris to the transfer station.

We'll have 2 guys shingling the side that's clean starting Sat. morning, and 3 guys tearing off / cleaning the other side of the house, then hopefully get the garage done Sunday.

If not, I'll be happy just getting the house done this fall at least.

[K_Josh87]

Hay Chad, Someone else likes the Durations!!!

your wife has an eye for quality...

[chad austin]

Hay Chad, Someone else likes the Durations!!!

your wife has an eye for quality...

[LwnmwnMan2]

Two more, more technical questions.

1). I think I may have misunderstood. Do really need to ice and water the gables as well two feet inside the exterior wall? Or just the base?

2). Is there a code for thickness of decking for the roof? Right now there is 1/4" decking (which explains alot.of.the cracks.and sags) and I'm tempted on just going over the top with 7/16 or 1/2" rather than tear off the existing plywood.

[OLE77]

1- you do not have to ice &water up the gable ends.Just the bottom 2 feet past wall line. 2 I really doubt your roof sheating is 1/4 inch you would step right through it if it was.

[chad austin]

The code reads that the I&W must go past the warm wall by 24". Where your front porch is would require more I&W than the eaves, follow me?

Like ole77 said the I&W only needs to go on the eaves. If you redeck you will probably need to redo the wall tins as well where the garage roof and the house wall intersect.

If your decking is less than 7/16" I would redeck it and yes, you can go over the existing sheathing.

[LwnmwnMan2]

1- you do not have to ice &water up the gable ends.Just the bottom 2 feet past wall line. 2 I really doubt your roof sheating is 1/4 inch you would step right through it if it was.

I couldn't figure out why my roof has "waves", which the original shingles were cracked down the rafters.

When we were clearing off the first side last night, there were many times you felt like you were walking in one of those bouncy blow up things that kids climb into at carnivals.

We are tearing out the bottom row of plywood that has the I&W on it. The last time the roof was done, there was only 3' of I&W put on, we have a 1.5' overhang. We cannot get the I&W off the plywood for anything, so for time's sake, we will tear those sheets out, put new in there, then put new over the entire deck and have a clean slate.

And yes, I realize we need new drip edge, as well as new flashing where the garage goes into the house.

All the supplies are in the drive, 3 more guys are here at 8 am tomorrow. Hopefully 4-5 tomorrow I've got the other side clean, all the plywood in place and I&W / underlayment in and 1/2 the roof shingled, at least that's the goal.

The other 3 guys are construction / roofers, so I'm just the gopher.

[K_Josh87]

heeehheeeehheeee.... ;-)

[LwnmwnMan2]

heeehheeeehheeee.... ;-)

Yeah.... roofing sucks.

[SkunkedAgain]

It's so much better with a crew of buddies and a cooler of beer for afterwards

[crothmeier]

Many towns are starting to require felt/synthetic felt be placed over the ice & water now. makes life easier the next time you reshingle.

[LwnmwnMan2]

We had everything tore off the roof by Saturday evening. Sunday afternoon after the Vike's game we had everything done except the shingles.

Today we finished one side of the shingles and 2/3rds of the other side. We have the top rows left to cut out the vents / ridge vent.

We should be done with the house side tomorrow evening. The garage will be done this weekend.

[chad austin]

Today we finished one side of the shingles and 2/3rds of the other side. We have the top rows left to cut out the vents / ridge vent.

When you say vents/ridge vent, you mean one or the other, right? A regular static roof vent should not be installed with ridge vent on the roof as well.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Here's what I got from talking to the inspector.

I need to build up the peak with a 1x2 where the rafters are. I then put the ridge vent in since I have 1/2 of the house with a vaulted ceiling. I then use the standard vents on the other 1/2 of the house while running the ridge vent the whole house

[LwnmwnMan2]

I had the inspector come out onto my roof today.

It turns out he wanted us to raise the entire second layer of plywood with 1x2.

I'm glad we found this out AFTER we put the shingles on. We have both sides done up to 1.5" of the top.

He said "well, it is what it is, but next time that's probably what should be done".

That would have REALLY sucked. I would have just pulled the old wood off first before I did that.

He okayed just cutting out for the ridge vent, leaving the static vents out.

[CAMAN]

Did he explain why he wanted it built up like that? Seems odd as it really does nothing to aid air circulation?

[OLE77]

Exactly how are you geting airflow in that 1 1/2 inch space.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Exactly how are you geting airflow in that 1 1/2 inch space.

It'll be a 3 1/4" space that the ridge vent requires once we run the skill saw down each side.

Which, again, for 3/5" of the house, doesn't even do anything, since it'll run the length of the beam, sealed off on each side by 2x10's.

As for the raising of the overlay sheet, he explained that there would be more air movement to keep the top layer air temp.

I can only think he "thinks" somewhat as a double / triple pane window?

[Surface Tension]

"Which, again, for 3/5" of the house, doesn't even do anything, since it'll run the length of the beam, sealed off on each side by 2x10's."

That explains why you should have the roof vents there instead of the ridge vent.

Vaulted ceilings can be different and how they are vented varies.

Can be done with rafters or trusses. A truss will leave you enough room for insulation and an area for air to be vented by using either roof or ridge vent.

A rafter and depending on the age of the home could have a small air space, no air space, and a combination of both. Do you have attic space above collar ties or are you open to the peak?

The 1.5" furring on top the rafters then new roof deck would be to add air space to a rafter roof system that is filled with insulation. A ridge vent would be the choice with that and removing 2" of old roof deck along the eve to open air flow from the soffit.

If your roof deck wasn't rotted out from trapped moisture and you didn't have a problem with ice dams then I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. If you did have any of those problems then you missed the boat on solving them.

[CAMAN]

So if I understand ST correctly that airgap is to allow the old deck to dry and not rot the new deck?