Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

patching transducer holes in transom


Mistermojo

Recommended Posts

I just picked up a humminbird 587 and will be removing an older lowrance. There is currently the transducer itself and the speed sensor attached directly to the transom via screws or bolts. I am going to remove both of these and will need to patch the holes. What is going to be the best way to patch and make sure they are good and sealed for the long term?

Also, should I invest in one of those transducer mounting plates for the new transducer?

Thanks,

Mojo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure how yours is mounted, but the best thing to do, is use one of the existing (or both if you can) to mount the new one. Any extra hole just put the screw back in. If you can't put the screw back in (transducer in the way) simply calking or JB weld works for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't have access to the back of the hull in that area, so I just used a good shot of silicone and a pop rivet. Re siliconed the outside and then mounted a transducer board over the holes. Slightly bored some indents for the rivets to sit in so the board mounted perfectly flush. Silicone under the board and around it. Maybe overkill, but it seems to work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what I did.

1. Removed old transducer and speed sensor

2. Scraped off old gunk from transom.

3. Filled the holes with 3M 5200 and put some 5200 on the threads of the existing stainless screws, then I screwed them back in. Figured this would seal the holes the best.

4. Purchased mounting plate

5. Counter sunk the mounting plate so it would mount flat on transom over the existing screws (if mounting in same location).

6. Drilled holes for mounting plate, filled holes with 3M 5200, and put some on threads of screws. Placed bead of 3M 5200 around the entire mounting plate and then installed plate to transom.

7. Let dry for a couple days.

8. Mount new transducer to mounting plate.

I think the mounting plate is worth it. I much prefer drilling into that rather than my transom, especially if you need to fiddle with the mounting location of the ducer after the fact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure how yours is mounted, but the best thing to do, is use one of the existing (or both if you can) to mount the new one. Any extra hole just put the screw back in. If you can't put the screw back in (transducer in the way) simply calking or JB weld works for me.

+1 on using existing hardware/bracket mounts if possible, why go thru the rest of the mess if it is unncessary? may have been dumb but jb weld my new puck to hull, no holes needed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.