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trolling chart

dan z

By dan z
in Open Water

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LMITOUT Grand Master

LMITOUT

Posted
Posted

The well-known trolling books have been discontinued and are not in print anymore. If you can find one you better grab it, even if the newest lures aren't in there.

The owners of the company that made those popular books are supposedly developing a cell phone app with the dive curves. Pretty disappointing to say the least.

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Hoffer Mentor

Hoffer

Posted
Posted

would love to have that app!!

In the meantime I just do it the old fashioned way.

I tie on my dive - say one advertised to dive to 20.

I use my line counter and let out 100 yards, then put it in the rod holder. Start in 35 feet of water and put in the RPM range or MPH range that you want to troll and slowly move in until you start to touch bottom. Then just write down the results.

I can say for most lures I use...I can pretty much dial it in right away without doing all that. I can kind of "eyeball" how much line I am letting out and then slowly start to move into the shoreline. I will usually be within 2 feet above or below the advertised dives to depth.

Last, I am usually trying to just get my lure to go as deep as it can - especially when I am fast trolling in deeper waters above schools of baitfish. So, if I am only getting down 18 feet, speed up a bit or let out more line, or grab another rod with lower pound test/smaller diameter line.

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Chumba Enthusiast

Chumba

Posted
Posted

The app is supposed to be out real soon, like maybe this week.

Just out of curiosity, where are you getting this info? The fishing411 web site is down. They did have a Precision trolling facebook page that was getting hammered with frustrated fisherman wanting updates to the book or app (originally due out by June). That page disappeared about a month ago. Searching the web just brings up message board discussions, but no real facts.

Also The App (not to be negative) sounds crazy. The cost was out of this world (This info was from questions answered off of their FB page before it vanished). Something like $0.99 for every single dive curve you wanted. And a crazy cost of like $99.00 for a complete set of dive curves. Also it was not clear if the Big Water edition info would be available (Lead core). In My opinion this company took a viable product, and drove it into the ground.

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JohnMickish Grand Master

JohnMickish

Posted
Posted

I got the info from the fishing 411 with Mark Rominack site, and from another HSOforum.

I'm don't really know why everybody is coming down on him for this. He made a book, and people coppied it and gave the info away to friends and such. He stopped printing the book and he's the bad guy?? Come on, he deserves to get rewarded for his effort. Mark, along with Gary Parsons and Keith K have thousands of hours invested over the years and should get a return on their investment.

I did hear the app was going to be iphone specific for awhile, and that there is part of the cost. $99 for the whole book sounds like a bargain, have you seen the prices of the PT book lately?

For what it's worth, a buddy of mine just picked up the 6th edition from a store in Baudette for $30 two weeks ago. I guess they didn't know what it's worth.

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Comit 2 Proficient

Comit 2

Posted
Posted

Wow! What a large order.

With all the new lines out. With all the new lures coming out ever year. With all the single run lure coming out (or it sure seam that way). With all the older lures being taken out of production. I don't think you could test all the combinations, get it to print and on the shelf's be for you would have at least 3 new lines and 5 more lures to add.

Then if you are on a lake that has wind blown currents and your not paying attention to them, well you might as well be facing the wind while flying a kite.

There are so many thing that effect a crank bait that the only way to know is to get out on the lake, be alert and pay attention to what the lure is telling you. That means no rod holder. I Mn that shouldn't be a issue. Current, water temp, speed, line dia, all effect the way a lure works. Then what if they are hitting a jointed grappler shad but are in deeper water then a Grappler shad runs? Now we have to add snap weights or some kind of inline weight.

So as you see the only real way to go about this is to have information to learn how all these things come together and come up with a game plan to get you (us) going in the right direction. From there you and only you can fill in the gray areas.

Fundamentals, Fundamentals, Fundamentals. A good place to start is with a book called Spoonpluging by Buck Perry. No it is not about the lure called a Spoonplug! It is mostly about fish behavior and how to use your lures to productively locate and catch fish, using crankbait that run at a given depth. Kind of like as my dad would say "straining the lakes key areas with crankbaits".

Most lure today come with the depth they run at on the box. I use a sharpie to write this on the bill of the lure. It keeps me in the ballpark. I can troll a given depth than find the lure that runs a little deeper and work deeper water adjusting line out until I need to change lures deeper again or find fish.

I know some of you know all this already. This is for those of you who are looking to learn new tips.

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SM1 Community Regular

SM1

Posted
Posted

99 cents seems like a good price to me for a chart. I would suspect the majority of people could easily get by with 20-30 different charts. I run cranks a lot of the time and I would guess I use the same 10 different types/sizes 90% of the time because it works for me. I also have the PT guide and ended up taking out/setting aside about 1/3 of the pages of the cranks I dont have.

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pikerliker Proficient

pikerliker

Posted
Posted

There will be competition in the trolling chart market by the end of next summer. A company called Dead On Dive Charts will have something out by the end of summer. Dead On is supposed to be incredibly accurate with diver verified depths.

Amen to that!!

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LMITOUT Grand Master

LMITOUT

Posted
Posted

Note in the article that the "lifetime version" will get more expensive as the app is updated with new versions. If someone wants to save a few bucks it might be wise to get the app now instead of waiting. YMMV.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • Mike89
      Just Food and Drink

      By Mike89 · Posted

      I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • Mike89
      Problems with Yetti

      By Mike89 · Posted

      good luck!!!   
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

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    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.

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