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Trailer light problems.


x1957x

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I have a shorelander trailer mnfg. in 2001 and It hauls a 18.5 Lund Pro V. The problem I have is that the lights all work when I hook up to any vehicle to leave, but when it gets dark out and I PULL IT OUT OF THE WATER the lights quit working. The brake lights and the turn signals work yet!, but not the tail(driving)lights dont. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated..

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I bet you have a bad ground wire. Put a MARINE GRADE ring connector on the ground wire, just a crimp is fine, but a heat shrink is better. there will probably be a little corrosion where the old connection with the trailer is, you can use sand paper to clean it off. Then just screw, or bolt it back on the trailer.

If that does not work, you might have a bad wire somewhere along the trailer. If you have lights on the sides, check those connections.

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I have 2010 Shorelander trailer that durng its second season it kept popping fuses on my car and the lights would quit working. I pulled all the wires out of the trailer and found many places in the wires that were worn through to the wires. I taped up the wires and put wire loom around them and put them back in the trailer. It seemed to take care of the issues.

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I haven't unplugged my lights in six years. The trailer has surge brakes and the back up lights are what keep the brakes from engaging. Haven't had any problems with the bulbs or wiring.

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I have never in my life unplugged my wiring before backing in.

My last rewire job was on my current Shorelander trailer and it is 6-7 years old.

The wiring had rubbed through the protective coating in the frame tubes going from the front to the rear lights.

I replaced all the wiring with electrical brake wiring which is heavier wiring and also has a extra coating to protect the wiring. The I used a extension cord for my ground wire. Now if it wears through, I can just switch to another wire in the cord as it has 3 wires.

I am good to go for a long time now.

If one tows alot, this cheap wiring from the factory will not last for many years and that is why I went with my HD wiring job.

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+1 for the rewiring.

I too had the same issue and still do. Mine is usually good to go to the lake and then when I take the boat out of the water - the lights go out.

Its always the same thing - blown little blue number 15 fuse.

I have now replaced the number 15 with a 20 and its been working. But I am sure there are some worn wires that bounch around and cause the fuse to blow. I would love to rewire the whole thing the heavy duty way as mentioned above. That may be a spring project for next year.

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Not that hard to do Hoffer. If you have side markers, that makes the job a bit more but not that bad.

The wiring will run a bit more than a cheapo wiring harness but the added covering on the wires have to make it last much longer than the factory harness. It will pay off in the long run as a friend wired his this way and it just keeps on going like the little energizer bunny.

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Hoffer,

I kept blowing fuses too . Thats why I pulled the wires out and put loom aroung them. It was an easy repair. The thing is that when they drill holes in the frame of the trailer there are sharp edges inside the frame. It would be nice if the maunfactures would put the loom on. It would save us from doing it.

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Sled59

Thanks!!

What do you mean by Loom?

How long did it take you to rewire?

I want to put on LED lights as well.

But I am not just going to put on LED lights without rewiring as well. Get it all done at once. Should be good to go them for many years.

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Harvey

You bring up another point. Yes, mine has side lights. Do these really need to be lit up anyway? (those little yellow ones) I mean is it a legal issue?

I am thinking it its not - I will just do the basic rewiring right to the back lights.

Thanks

Hoffer.

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Loom as in flex loom the flexible plastic tubing that has a slit to put your wires in for protection. I have that on some of the wire. I need to do all of it. This will limit the wear/tear on the insulation of said trailer wires rubbing against the frame. Hope that made sense Hoffer.

I went to NAPA and got some LED lights. Prepare for a price shocker. Mine were $75 but it had everything, well except the flex loom. Also, no side lights on the LED's. They are very bright, but those fixtures still take in water.

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I was told by a shop my trailer by law had to have the side markers. Its a trailer for a 17ft boat. 2 side markers on each side. Might depend on trailer length.

I have each side marker grounded seperatly.

More than likely all your side markers are connected in one harness. I simply ran a new hot and ground to the back and connected it to the tail lights for the trailer.

When I took my old harness out of my Shorelander trailer, all the wires were in one harness.

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Taken from the 2011 MN Boating guide on page 48.

BOAT TRAILERS

Dimensions

The maximum length of a boat trailer and boat is 45 feet. No trailer load may exceed 8 1/2 feet in

width or 13 1/2 feet in height.

Lights

Two red taillights, license plate light (not required on trailers with permanent registration) and two red

reflectors are required on all trailers. Signal and brake lamps are recommended on all trailers and

required at night or whenever the signal of the tow-

ing vehicle is not visible to the other drivers. Larger

trailers also require clearance and/or marker lamps.

Not very specific on side markers. Maybe I saw it on the back of the trailer light kit I purchased.

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