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preventing back lashes


WaveWacker

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Changes will need to be made on the amount of "drag" that is on your spool for different lures. First to clarify that I'm not talking adjusting the actual drag on the reel (how easily line comes off of spool with spool locked). This is done by turning the "star wheel" directly under your crank. You want to adjust how much "drag" the spool has on it when it is in freespool (casting). This is done by adjusting the round (less then dime sized) knob on the crank side of the reel on the reel housing itself. You may already know this but just wanted to make sure that we are talking the same language.

What I do is crank my lure up all the way to the rod tip, hit the freespool/casting button and allow the lure to land on a solid surface (boat floor) without moving the rod tip. If spool continues to spin excessive once the lure has come to rest then I tighten up the knob explained above.

On the flip side, I want to get the max. distance out of every lure that I cast so I will run this with a lighter lure as well. If I feel that the spool doesn't spin enough or is the lure won't drop down all the way, I will then loosen the knob up some.

Last but not least is that I have been casting with baitcasters for many years now and I'm sure the practice or experience doesn't hurt any

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Making sure you have your spool tension adjusted correctly is very important.
That's the center dial on your reel, on the same side as your handle. It should be adjusted to every different bait you throw.

The best way to do this, put the bait on your line and tighten the tension on the spool, so that the lure won't fall in free spool, unless you shake the rod tip.

That gives you a good starting point so that you can fine tune the tension, for the way you cast. If you do the tension correctly you will seldom if ever get a backlash. Also avoid throwing into the wind and trying to over throw the bait.

The new rods are built so well, that if you throw them correctly they will load up and you'll get great distance with every cast. Make sure your line is put on the reel as tight as possible, that will eliminate the really bad backlash.

The new super lines are so thin that in order to keep it from digging in on the spool, many people have gone up to the heavier pound test like 90# or 100#. I use 65# and 80# on all my rods, but I never get any backlashes, Right Tommy!
smile.gifsmile.gif

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Terry "Ace" Sjoberg
aceguideservice.com
Muskies and More.
Pro Staff Member.
Catch-n Tackle.
CKat Custom Muskie rods.
Bearpaws Handpoured Baits
Ohio Pro Lure.
Muskie Nut Tackle.
Big Chimney Muskie Baits.
Marcum.

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yep i had one of those professional overruns toooooo! thank goodness the anihalator(?) floats! one extra bit of info. when casting into a wind you may want to use a little more tension or thumb pressure. the size lures we throw don't get caught by the wind like lighter lures can, but it may make a difference1 del

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I currently have a abu garcia I forget which model number 6300 or 6400 with tuff line on it. I have a problem on occasion with backlashes. I can cast for a hour and not get any some days and other days it's birds nest after birds nest. I try to control the line with my thumb and I also try to adjust the drag based on the weight of the lure but I'm exactly sure how to do this. Any ideas on how prevent backlashes cause there is nothing worse then having a follow or being in prime time right conditions and having to untangle everything.

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I was going to post this until I read this already posted topic.
"I have been trying to use fireline on my Musky reels. I can not seem to get it on tight enough to keep the line from digging in and resulting in a backlash. I have one reel that I was able to get it on tight enough and do not experience backlash problems with that one. What's the trick to get that line on tight enough to prevent backlash problems?"
Sounds like I need to go with larger fireline. Right now I am using 30# if I remember right. Opinions anyone.

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WaveWacker is right, plus, keep away from "limp" lines.

Also.........practice, practice, practice.

When I started, I couldn't "give it to her" on my cast, otherwise I would have a mess.

Now, I can whip the bucktails consistently 90 to 120 feet, cast after cast after cast.

Takes practice to learn. Once you learn, then you can do in confidence.........

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Let 'em go so they can grow!!!

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I have never though much of Fireline, I have had several clients struggle with it and you can always tell when someone has it on a reel, it makes a crackling sound....

Go to at least 65lb of either PowerPro or Tuffline, I think you'll like either one better than the Fireline.

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Terry "Ace" Sjoberg
aceguideservice.com
Lake Vermilion
Muskies and More.

Pro Staff Member.
Catch-n Tackle.
CKat Custom Muskie rods.
Bearpaws Handpoured Baits
Ohio Pro Lure.
Muskie Nut Tackle.
Big Chimney Muskie Baits.
Marcum.

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Hmmm...I'm kinda new to musky fishing and I was in Gander Mountain today checking out fishing stuff. I was looking at Cortland Spectron 80#. Would this line end up in the "limpy line" category? I want to load up me reel with some decent line. If I lost a couple big ones because of my limpy line I think I'd become phyically ill.

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Lots of good advice so far -- I will second the idea of switching to Tuff Line and going with something heavier 65, 80 or even 100 lbs test work well for certain applications.

One of the biggest keys to not getting the backlash, other than eating fruit loops, is to not over cast! The harder you throw, the faster that spool is going to spin, then if you hit a loose or tight spot in the spool, or the wind catches the lure, you are screwed. Keep your casts consistant and under control, this along with the correct reel setting and diet, will have you spending more time fishing and less picking out knots.

Good Luck -- It's more fun, when it's less work. ;-)

Steve

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My 2 cents is that i can go forever without a backlash with a long sweeping cast. If i try to wrist it at all i backlash every time. I probably should take advice on adjusting the cast control.
GRIZ

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