Bathroom Sink Supply Line Leak

[toughguy]

I have a VERY small leak in the cold water supply line in our bathroom. I replaced the faucet and accidentally bumped the supply line leading to the leak. It's coming out of the crimped metal piece just downstream of the 90 degree bend.

Question 1 Is there anything I can do to tighten the crimping on the metal piece?

Question 2 If not how do I remove this type of push connect fitting? Do I need to cut the copper behind it or can it be removed leaving all of the copper in tact? If not that's not going to give me much room to work with for the new line.

[Archerysniper]

That style just pushes on.If you shut the water off and drain the pressure off you should be able to remove it without cutting the copper. I can't remember how that style comes off but it will. You can always use a hacksaw and cut the plastic stop off and replace it. Good luck it looks like it's on a pedestal Lav and their isn't much room to work with.

[jmd1]

to remove, turn supply off to house, drain water from valve, take channel lock pliers and turn the whole valve including the hose since it is one piece counter clockwise to remove. You have to pull on the valve as you are turning it ccw. how old is your house? these have a supposed 10 yr warranty and you can call the mfg they should send you new one to replace it.

[toughguy]

Thanks Guys!!! You gotta love this site! I'll pick up a new supply hose tomorrow and give it a shot. The leak stops as long as the valve is closed so it's good overnight. It's on a pedestal sink but I pulled it off the wall to get the drain for the new faucet install. (after a few hours of swearing laying on my back trying to install it while leaving it all in place) The house is 6 years old but I didn't build it. I don't know who the manufacturer of the hose is so I'm just going to pick up a new one. Thanks again guys. I'll let you know if it all turned out.

[MNice]

Here is some info you may like.

http://www.accortechnology.com/flowtite.html

[krinkle]

Great valves. I have replaced a good number of them here in the north metro for the same reason. These will be great money makers for us in the future. I would remove both of them while you are at it and go back to the old style shut off with a 1/4 turn valve and new supply tubes. Then keep a few extra on hand for the other shut off valves like this in your home.

I think insurance companies will come to love these types of valves to as water damage claims come in from them.

[toughguy]

I got it up and running! Thanks again guys.

[Archerysniper]

Great valves. I have replaced a good number of them here in the north metro for the same reason. These will be great money makers for us in the future. I would remove both of them while you are at it and go back to the old style shut off with a 1/4 turn valve and new supply tubes. Then keep a few extra on hand for the other shut off valves like this in your home.

I think insurance companies will come to love these types of valves to as water damage claims come in from them.

HAHA my thoughts exactly when I first saw them, and now propress everywhere I should be busy till retirement

[cavalierowner]

Do the supply tubes in the picture meet code? I thought I remembered a plumber telling me that they had to be the stainless steel braid if they were the flexible type.

[Archerysniper]

Do the supply tubes in the picture meet code? I thought I remembered a plumber telling me that they had to be the stainless steel braid if they were the flexible type.

If you ever have a doubt look for a stamp that looks like a shield with UPC stamped inside it. that stands for uniformed plumbing code and is accepted.

[MNice]

Keep in mind not everything UPC approved is accepted by the Minnesota plumbing code. Air admittance valves come to mind. The valves in this post are used a ton, first time I've heard of any problems.