Proper Wall Framing

[amateurfishing]

can anyone plz tell me how to properly make a wall frame....build flat on floor first, then erect? or any other ways?

[K_Josh87]

Basement project correct? chalk line out wall placement, measure, cut, layout stud placement on top and bottom plates, Set BOTH plate stacke atop one another in there locations, Pull measurements from floor framing to the plates, placing pressure ont he plates when measureing (stepping on them) mark as needed on plate the stud lengths needed, but make sure to subtract around an 1/8" to help with getting walls tipped into place. (measure each one as the concrete and floor framing can vary. ) Then cut studs, nail together laying down, and tip up into place. Anchor using tapcons or ram set nail gun, and if needed on short blocks, (EX> next to a door opening, use a little PL glue to help hold it in place, and nail top plate into floor joists, us cross blocks to nail into if in between and parallel to joists.

[LightningBG]

Josh summed it up well.

Also, check the crown (which way it is bowed) on each stud, mark it with an arrow or bow shape. When putting the studs in, make sure all the crowns are going the same direction. This will help avoid a wavy wall.

And, when doing your doorways, leave the bottom plate going all the way across until the wall is secured, then cut out the bottom plate to make way for the door to be installed.

[LightningBG]

can also pick up a framing book at Lowes or other home improvement stores. They run about $17 and may help if you have a question that needs to be answered asap.

[K_Josh87]

Thanks LBG, I forgot some of the basics :-)

[amateurfishing]

any opinions on best way to fasten together? nails (by hand or framing nailer? wood screws? any tool to make job faster/better/easier without buying a $200 framing nailer brand new for a one time job?

[upnorth]

If you are a home owner there is no such thing as a one time job. I don't think I have ever purchased a tool that I used only once!

[amateurfishing]

should i b looking into a framing nailer gun?

[soldoncass]

Framing nailers make the job go faster, and easier.....BUT they can put a nail into your hand, foot, eye, etc., if it isn't used properly. That said, I would suggest renting one for a day. Get all the plates, studs, trimmers, headers, etc. cut and laying in place(as much as possible), before you rent the gun. Where you get the gun will have the 3 inch nails, that fit the gun, so you only have to buy what you use. Power nails are MUCH higher than hand nails.

[Surface Tension]

Use a treated on the bottom plate. I wouldn't go out and buy a framing nailer just for this project but if you think you might have a need for one later then go for it. You'll need a compressor too.

IMO this project is perfect for some quality time with a good framing hammer.

For the framing you'll need16b galvanized sinkers. Should have a couple lbs of 8d for toe nailing too. Get the framing book, it'll be money well spent getting the RO on the doors and windows right the first time not to mention that mysterious stud set wrong and the rest to follow.

[K_Josh87]

I would nail, not screw. 10d nails work great. use galvinized nails on the bottom plates. Regulars on the rest. You may also find that if you rent/buy a nail gun, you will find 12D nails instead of 10Ds, these work great as well, just remember to angle your nails when doubling up studs as so they do not stick out the back side... (helps prevent unnecessary bloodshed. If you are going to purchase, I would look into an "impulse" gun, Pasload makes the most common one, and bostich now makes one as well, I have a bostitch, and it works well, and I found it at the big M store on sale for a lot less than the paslode gun... these run off a gas cell and a battery... and are not great for everyday heavy framing use, however would be good for a project every now and again, and MUCH more portable... say you want to nail a tree stand together, or something to that nature... They are also a one shot per trigger pull deal, and are more fussy about having a solid set on the board to get them to fire... so they are safer to run as well... I use mine for quick repair, or misc. things that need done to wrap jobs up, where it takes longer to get the hose drug around than to nail the piece up...

Otherwise a few walls in a basement wouldn't be to bad to nail together by hand... unless you can't swing a hammer real well...

Good luck

[soldoncass]

I hope those "impulse" guns work better now than the one we use to have for remodeling jobs.....or he will throw it in the garbage, and nail it by hand. I'm quite patient, but that gun was a xqzxz. (challenge) If the battery wasn't charged enough, it wouldn't fire....if there wasn't enough gas in the cartridge, or it was too cold,it wouldn't fire...etc, etc.....but you get the idea. There were times we could spend more time trying to get it to work, than if we just nailed it by hand.....of course ,just think of all the patience we developed that day!!!

Maybe they work better now????

[hugonian1]

I could be wrong but I thought galvanized nails thru the green treated was a no no!

I thought they needed to be stainless or one of the other specialty coated nails out there now.

[hugonian1]

I see you can use hot dipped galvanized with a G-185 desiganation which refers to the thickness of the galvanization.

[slabchaser]

Everyone on here knows more then i do but speaking from the last two months of finishing my basement I can tell you to measure the distance from your floor to the rafters. Dont assume your rafters or concrete are the same all over. Measure each one. Maybe my home was made terribly but I think it would be a good task on every home.

[K_Josh87]

You are very correct.

[K_Josh87]

And the impulse nailers aren't fabulous, but they do work, and are a lot more portable. I know of guys that use the impulse trim guns exclusively... Also, yes a tick coat galvy nail is what is required. I have only ever used stainless for exterior wood foundation components where they will be berried, and they are spendy, around 200 bucks a box for a 1000 count, and where unavailable in anything other than an 8 penny for the gun, and nothing for hand drives... most of the new non-below grade treated these days is able to be fastened using regular nails, if you read the tag on the lumber, but i would not do that for moisture reasons, if your using treated, its due to moisture contact, moisture contact will cause rusting, which causes fastener failure...

[LightningBG]

I'd ask around to your buddies and see if any of them have a framing nailer that you could borrow. IMO it really helps when you're working alone. Just not enough hands to do it all at once, at least easily (holding the nail, the hammer, twisting studs straight, holding them tight together, etc)