Stool rough in and vent pipe?

[Hookmaster]

I apologize for the cell phone pics but I couldn’t get the pics of the SD card from my digital camera. These pictures are in my utility room in a corner. I think it is rough in for a toilet and the corresponding vent pipe with a T (covered with duct tape) for a sink. What to you think?

The larger pipe is 4.5 inches in diameter and 18 inches on center from the nearest wall. The smaller pipe is 2.25 inches and goes up the outside wall alongside the drain pipe from the 2nd story bathroom. I ran hot water from all the bathrooms and the smaller pipe is not used by any of them.

If it is a toilet rough in I want to install one since there is not one on this floor now. The pipe is some kind of corrugated metal pipe and it is sealed by concrete. If it is what I think do I start the process by cutting it off flush with the floor?

[LightningBG]

No, do not cut it off flush with the floor until you figure it all out (supply lines, vents, sink, etc)

Once you get it all figured out, then you can cut it off and install a flange on there.

(but I'm no plumber, so keep that in mind)

[Redlantern]

Yep, you have roughed in Water closet and lavatory. Looks like a cast iron closet bend. The two inch line with the tee is a vent and the code allows for a sink to be drained into the vent in this situation. Are you planning on just installing a stool or are you going to frame it into a normal bathroom? I ask this since if yuo plan on framing it, you need to keep a minimum of fifteen inches from the center of the water closet to any wall or cabinet on either side of it. Normal distance to the back wall is twelve inches from center of the four inch pipe to the finished wall behind the water closet. Ten inch and fourteen inch toilets are available but it's best to build it to what is standard.

As far as cutting the pipe, if you have a four inch grinder available, use some cut off wheels (and safety glasses) and you should be able to take it down to the concrete. I forget the name of the flange that is used to install in this situation (been a while since I've used one) but it's a pretty simple procedure to install. In a perfect world, you'd be able to chip the concrete around the four inch waste pipe and install a cast iron flange but I doubt you want to pour a lead joint.

[delcecchi]

Instead of pouring lead, can you use that lead wool and pound it it?

[river-rat4]

The name of that "lead wool" is oakum (sp)?

Make sure you get some more advise or better pictures before going forward. You might want to run some water in both to see if they are clear before going all in.

I wish you luck.

[delcecchi]

The name of that "lead wool" is oakum (sp)?

Make sure you get some more advise or better pictures before going forward. You might want to run some water in both to see if they are clear before going all in.

I wish you luck.

I don't think oakum and lead wool are same thing. Oakum is an oil treated fiber stuff, at least that's what I recall and what shows up on the Home

Depot site.

[Archerysniper]

Oakum is oil treated hemp which expands with moisture too seal the joint. All I buy for lead joints is the lead wool however I still do it the right way and melt it. The lead wool just requires less heat too melt enough too pour a joint.