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Jig Paint


OnAFly

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I've been painting a few jigs here and there mostly for small hair jigs through the ice. The paint I've been using is the Pro-Tech powder paint.

This ends up as a very glossy, but very brittle finish. I mean brittle like glass so popping open the eyelet after painting can crack half the paint off.

Anyone have any suggestions for a paint that will last a little longer?

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I'm in the same boat. Blow torch, dip, and bake doesn't do it for me. Used to prime then dip. But now.. all the cool colors and effects are coming from the air brush artists. Thinking of tinkering in this for the winter to see what I can do. Could someone chime in? Really interested in glow colors also. Blue and Red to be specific. Who is the best supplier?

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I'm trying some of my head cement I use for fly tying. We'll see how that works out. There is a paint out there that I can find on jigs sometimes that is almost pliable, but sticks on lead very well. I have no idea what it is, but it seems like the most durable paint I've seen.

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Powder paint has got to be cured in an oven. Each color varies with the ideal temperature and time. Generally if you go 350(preheated) for 15 minutes you should be good to go. If you are dipping without a fluid bed chances are you will get drips. If this is a problem just hang your jig hook down. The drip goes down the shank and can be broken off. Always clear the eye before curing. Powder paint is very durable when cured. If your jigs are heavily oxidized they may need to be cleaned before painting. Chipping should not be a problem.

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Vinyl paint is another good jig paint. You must use a white base coat. Multi color jigs and air brushing can be done with this paint. You can get it at Fleet Farm in the fishing section. Some glow colors are available as well as in powder paints. The use of a white bade coat for powder glow jigs gives you a much better result. I like to fully cure the white base coat on the powder before applying the glow colors. If not your white base coat may run and ruin you jig.

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clear your eyes immediatly after painting. While its still hot. use a tooth pick or an ice pick or something like that. it may leave a little nip, but that will pop right off prior to baking. hope this helps. wel fed/KRANZ JIGS

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I don't know how it will work with jigs but when I worked for a place making motors we would plug what we did not want coated before we preheated. As soon as we dipped the part we would pull the plug out right away while it was still hot. Or for the outside of it we would put some masking tape with a tab on it and take it off after we dipped it.

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I tried putting a toothpick in the eye before powder painting. It worked, but decided it was easier to clean them after they were dipped. I try not to get the eye covered, so it usually don't have much on it in the first place. Then clean them after they cool, but BEFORE curing them. May have to try cleaning them with a toothpick while warm. smile Picking up 200 football jigs friday. Painting them will give me something to do on cold days!

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What I'm painting are 1/64oz to 1/100oz jigs, so no toothpick cleaning for me. I just dip it and is a needle to clean out the eyes.

I just took a look at the vial of paint. It clearly states that you need to cure at 350F after dipping. Maybe I should start reading directions grin

I'll give it a try and see how it turns out. Too bad I already painted and tied up a bunch of hair jigs

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I have found that the best way to clean the hook eye is not to paint it from the beginning. I realize you are doing very small hooks but give this a try. Use a heat gun and not a blow torch to heat up the lure as there is much less chance of melting your jig nad the heat is more controllable.

When doing the powder paint, use TWO needle nose pliers. The first one holds the lure by the hook end while you heat it up. Hand off to the second pliers, grabbing the lure by the eye, then dip in the powder. The cold pliers prevents the powder from sticking to the eye. You can then switch back to the hot pliers to fuse the powder and finish the lure and bake to cure as mentioned above. The hook eye will be clean when done, no chipping required.

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I have found that the best way to clean the hook eye is not to paint it from the beginning. I realize you are doing very small hooks but give this a try. Use a heat gun and not a blow torch to heat up the lure as there is much less chance of melting your jig nad the heat is more controllable.

When doing the powder paint, use TWO needle nose pliers. The first one holds the lure by the hook end while you heat it up. Hand off to the second pliers, grabbing the lure by the eye, then dip in the powder. The cold pliers prevents the powder from sticking to the eye. You can then switch back to the hot pliers to fuse the powder and finish the lure and bake to cure as mentioned above. The hook eye will be clean when done, no chipping required.

that's a very good tip. I will have to try that when I decide to paint some of the jigs I made. right now I just use them unpainted.

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I used to break off toothpicks in the eyelets of jigs I dip painted and shortly afterbdipping would remove them not sure if it would work with powder paint . I have tried powder paint but it was a long time ago and wasn't impress with it . I'm sure the paint is much bettber now a days

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I have been using powder paints for several years. Watch not to over heat jigs it makes paint melt faster, which make your paint thicker.

If your paint is to thick at the beginning, it will drip during the curing mode. I remove any paint from around eyes before curing. Add eyes and fine detail painting after curing.

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