Advice Refinishing a Desk

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I bought an old U shaped desk for my office and I striped it, sanded it and stained it. I want go put a good thick hard clear surface on the top and poly the rest. What should I use on the top? I don't mind having someone do it if it is difficult.

I live in the Brainerd Area. Any ideas are very appeciated!

Thanks,

John

[Tom7227]

What is it made of? I would go to a paint supply store, the real thing not a big box, and tell them what you want to do. I had good luck putting a couple coats of sealer and then a couple coats of a good varnish. Make sure that the material you use is compatible as to type. There are new low volatile water base stuff out now. I have not used them but if you do make sure that the base coats and the top coats are going to work together.

Probably one of the most forgotten steps is to light sand or steel wool between coats to knock off the boogers and dust and stuff. You have to use a treated cheese cloth to clean up after sanding before you put the next coat on. Then wait the proper length of time between coats.

I did this to a roll top over 40 years ago and you can still put a cold drink on the surface and it won't mare it up.

Good luck and enjoy the process and then the results of your efforts.

[hydro]

I have done this type of finish many times with good results and here is my system:

First, to make the finish smooth you will need to fill the pores/grain in the wood. Since you have already stained, fill the pores with a paste wood filler (not putty), darker than the stain color. You can get this filler at Rockler (do a search), or if you are very lucky, at a local paint store.

Next you will need to build up the finish thickness. Here use a gloss polyurethane, Minwax is good stuff and available at the home store. The gloss finish will build up clear and not cloudy like the satin finish. If you are brushing, put the can of finish on the coffee maker hot plate and brush it on hot to reduce brush marks and bubbles. Sand between coats with 240 grit sand paper and use a tack rag to pick up the dust before recoating. DO NOT use waterborne sealers (they raise the grain and make a mess) or the water cleanup varnish (hard to sand, and tough to get on without brush marks). In total do a couple of coats or repeat until the finish is a smooth as you are looking for.

Last, you can put on a coat of semi gloss or satin if you want that sheen, or a last coat of gloss for a shiny finish.

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I think it is Mahogany???

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Would it be a good idea to sand it with fine sand paper and do another coat of stain? There are 2 spots where I didn't get the old sealer off all the way. You can see it on the main desk part.

[PurpleFloyd]

The wood isn't Mahogany. I would give it 99% probability of being Cherry. For what you are doing you will be fine using Poly. While it is true that you get additional durability from gloss sheen's, For that project it isn't necessary and 3-4 coats of satin will give you a great finish.

Between Varnishes and poly's in general you are going to get a harder coating than with varnish, which is softer and the varnish on average will yellow more than a poly. Of course if you want to go the extra mile you can use a pour on 2 part epoxy on the top. Bulletproof but expensive and possibly overkill.

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Thanks PF, I wasn't sure.

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Quote:

First, to make the finish smooth you will need to fill the pores/grain in the wood. Since you have already stained, fill the pores with a paste wood filler (not putty), darker than the stain color. You can get this filler at Rockler (do a search), or if you are very lucky, at a local paint store.

it is super smooth already, I wonder if it wasn't done before.

The guy at the store reccomended a poly that is made for wood floors and said that it was tougher. Not sure if that is a good idea. As far as the varnishes, I was thinking the poly was the way to go. Will high gloss be to shiny? I like the idea of it being clear since the wood grain is beautiful.

Quote:

The gloss finish will build up clear and not cloudy like the satin finish. If you are brushing, put the can of finish on the coffee maker hot plate and brush it on hot to reduce brush marks and bubbles.

Thanks for the tip!

[hydro]

I use the high gloss because it does not have flattening agents in it and it will build up clear. The flattener is actually like a fine clay and multiple coats will look dull. A desk like that would probably have had a "semi-gloss" type of finish when it left the factory. Just use the proper sheen on the last coat.

It looks like you are doing a very nice job!

[PurpleFloyd]

it is super smooth already, I wonder if it wasn't done before.