bowhunt Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Hey guys,I am new to the whole boat motor maintenance thing, so please bare with me. I bought a little 12' fishing boat last yeat with a 6 horse Johnsons sea horse motor. I figure I should probably change the gear oil before I get it up and running for the summer but I have never done this before. I have watched a few videos showing how to change it but here are my questions.First what kind of oil do I need to buy, does this depend on the size and make of the motor or is the gear oil universal?Second, where is the best place to buy it, do I need to go to a marine dealer to get it, or can I pick it up at a walmart or something similar?Third, Do I need to buy a special attachment to connect to the drain plug hole to be able to pump the gear oil into the bottom drain hole? If I need something where would I go to get it, and is this dependant on the make and model of the motor?Thanks for the help,Bowhunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkedAgain Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 For a little 6hp, it probably doesn't matter about using a specially-made Johnson oil. However, that's for older motors. Newer ones made in the last 10 years might need something special. However, in general, all you need is marine grade lower-unit / gearcase oil. You'll find that at most boat shops, fleet farm, etc.For a small motor like that, you don't need a pump. You can just cut the tip off of the bottle and squeeze the oil through the lower hole until you see the oil coming out of the top hole. Once that happens (and keeping the bottle nozzle in the bottom hole), insert the top plug into place and tighten. Then pull the bottle out of the bottom hole and insert the plug there as well. Keep a piece of cardboard under the motor as some oil will spill no matter what.If you want you can buy a pump that screws onto the top of the oil bottle. They cost $10-$15 and can be found at most FF places and most auto-part stores. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowhunt Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 Anyone know where a good place to get the lower unit gear oil in the south west metro? I live in Mound and work in Eden Prairie, so so somewhere in between or not to far out of the way would be great.Thanks again,Bowhunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reinhard1 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 if there is a fleet farm or walmart near they have plenty. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbymalone Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Anyone know where a good place to get the lower unit gear oil in the south west metro? Ya, like Reinhard says a FF, WM, and many auto parts stores will probably carry it. That Gander off of 5 and 494 certainly has it as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowhunt Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 Thanks for the info, I kind of forgot about Gander.Bowhunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmiller33 Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 I've bought lower unit oil from a whole bunch of different places including WalMart, FF, Gander and Cabelas. If I am at a place that has a good deal on it, I will buy it b/c I eventually will use it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowhunt Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Ok, so I went to change the gear oil and not so good...I pulled the plugs and water came running out, not milky oil, strait up water. After some water drained out then some very milky oil came out. There was probably more water then oil. So what are my options now?On this small of an engine is it possible for me to replace some seals or gaskets? I am guessing I'm going to have to bring it in some where. If you don't think I should mess with it, can you suggest any one in the south west metro that does good honest work. Can't afford to dump two much money into a little old motor.Thanks for any advice you have to give,Bowhunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Tom Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Helped a buddy change his and it had been that same way as yours for 4 years of sitting. We ended up pumping more than enough through the top hole until the old chunks stopped coming out. This was a 20 horse and still runs like a champ. Lucky Bugger.I'd refill it and put some ear muffs on connected to the hose and see how it runs in gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowhunt Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 I am thinking about just flushing it out, and filling it with oil. I am just figuring that if it continues to leak a little and get water in the oil, it will probably be cheaper to change the oil 4-5 times a summer then to pay some one to fix it. I hate not doing things the right way, but I am worried about the cost of having all the seals replaced in the lower unit. If anyone knows about how much it would cost to have the lower unit gone over and have the seals replaced on a 6 horse Johnson sea horse please let me know, so I can decide what to do.Thanks,Bowhunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmiller33 Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I pulled the plugs and water came running out, not milky oil, strait up water. After some water drained out then some very milky oil came out. There was probably more water then oil. Judging from what you said above, I think not dealing with the seal issue is a bad idea. If it was just a little bit of water in the gearcase (ie not having straight water drain from the lower unit) maybe you could put it off for a while. But I have never heard of someone draining their lower unit and having straight water come out. That is a serious seal issue. I'd call around to a few different places and get quotes on getting the seals changed. It can't be that expensive and it will be a lot cheaper than replacing a fried lower unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkedAgain Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Judging from what you said above, I think not dealing with the seal issue is a bad idea. If it was just a little bit of water in the gearcase (ie not having straight water drain from the lower unit) maybe you could put it off for a while.I couldn't agree more. If cost is really an issue then you should replace the seals and gaskets yourself. Spend $20 on a manual for your motor and get the parts to replace. It shouldn't cost more than $40 or $50 including the manual. To have a shop do the replacement will be in the $150-$200 range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowhunt Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Well if that is the case, maybe I will try to have a go at fixing it myself. Do you guys know where I need to look on the motor to find the model number so I can figure out what manual I need? I didn't plan on this but I like working on things so it never hurts to learn something new. I am sure I will end with a bunch more questions as I go, thanks a ton for all of the advise so far.Bowhunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbymalone Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 the shop manual for my motor is worth it's weight in gold, although for the tricky stuff I bring it to a pro. But I have rebuilt carbs, replaced the starter, replaced a power pack, dropped the lower unit, changed all the seals, replaced the impeller, etc. Saved a TON of money.Because there usually aren't big design changes between motors you might not need the exact model number.The book for my motor covers about a decade worth of evinrude's between 50-150hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkedAgain Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Yup, you just need to know the approximate year and the make. For my old outboard it's just a manual for all 1950s and 1960s Johnson outboards 1.5hp-35hp or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatfixer Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 The reason you saw straight water is because water and oil do not mix. After time the water will settle out in the lowest part of the gearcase. It needs to be resealed whether you get a manual or you find a shop that can do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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