Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

This sound familiar to anyone?


Recommended Posts

1996 GMC Safari. Upon normal acceleration vehicle will hesitate/sputter slightly while gaining speed. While cruising at highway speeds, if I press the accelerator completely to the floor and hold it there, the engine will keep running but the rpms drop almost to an idle and the vehicle will just start to coast and slow down. Just like if you were going down the road and slipped it into neutral. If I slowly let the accelerator back up about 1/4 of the way it will accelerate again. Make sense to anyone. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TPS, throttle position sensor. Any one know how to spell that? one or two t's. MAF is mass air flow sensor. Any way, with a truck that old, start with the easy stuff. I agree, could be a lot of things, even O2 sensors. First check all the sensor connections, and ya might disconnect the battery while you're doin' that. You don't want to blow off your air bag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TPS, throttle position sensor. Any one know how to spell that? one or two t's. MAF is mass air flow sensor. Any way, with a truck that old, start with the easy stuff. I agree, could be a lot of things, even O2 sensors. First check all the sensor connections, and ya might disconnect the battery while you're doin' that. You don't want to blow off your air bag.

Huh?????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Waddaya mean, "Huh???" Mid-90's GM's were bad about electrical problems. He didn't mention black smoke out the tail pipes, so I assumed it wasn't a problem with the throttle body itself. Nobody mentioned the possibility of a partial fuel clog or pump problem either. And since he did mention the engine seemed to slow to idle speed when he steps on the gas, but didn't didn't mention if he was already rolling, we can't even guess about the torque converter lock-up do-hickie. smile Ya know what? A vacuume leak could cause it too...I change my vote to electrical connection OR vacuume leak.

Later taters

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first Huh was the "Disconnect the battery as not to blow the airbag". I have never been able to measure a drop out on a TPS with an ohm meter and I quickly found out that it is much better to test them with the key on (so there is current running through them) and then back probe the signal wire and use either a voltmeter or a lab scope to check signal voltage.

My second Huh is why would the torque converter have anything to do with this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh, I see. If you're not experienced at tracing wire harnesses you could unplug and plug the wrong thing and blow off the air bag. And watch this. Russ, do you know how to check the drop out on a TPS? The point is to check all the connections in the circuit.

And, if the torque converter lock-up solenoid isn't working right you can over-rev, or stall out...depending on whether you're at speed or slowing...like that. The symptoms can fool someone who hasn't experienced it.

Any how, what's your guess?

I'll check back tomorrow 'cause it's almost 1am here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most manufacturers do a pretty good job at hiding the crash sensors for the airbag. The front crash sensors are usually located as for forward on the vehicle as possibly to give the most time to react if there is a collision. If your unplugging crash sensors to check TPS sensors than you're in way over your head! Even if you unplug a crash sensor with the key off not much is going to happen. With the key on it will set a code and disable the airbag. So I'm not really sure where you are going with that.

If you want to share some ideas that's what we're all about. If your a little more knowledgeable than the average DIY'er than give some examples with explanations and reasoning behind why you think those are possibilities and maybe even a quick tip on how to test.

russ never mentioned anything about over revving or stalling so I'm not sure why the torque converter would be suspect.

I think we have provided a pretty good base of possible solutions based on the information that we where provided. Plugged fuel filter, dirty MAF, and plugged catalytic converter are all reasonable possibilities. These can also be prevalent without a check engine light.

Until russ replies and answers the questions asked or gives us an update as to what he has found we have done about all we can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Russ, the votes are in! The guessing has you pegged anywher from a novice to an experienced auto tech. AND since proper observation of the symptoms is aslo dependent on said...PLEASE tell us what it was after you figure it out, and maybe HOW you figured it out.

Thanks much!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took it in to a couple places and no one could tell me for sure what the problem was, could be this, might be that. (no kidding! that much I know) But for a few hundred we can probably figure it out. So since it was just latest in a list of issues I just pushed it off a cliff. No more hesitation or sputtering problems. Thanks for the reply's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.