Replacing cork on a handle

[Huskie]

I purchased an older g.loomis rod off of .....List the other day. The rod is in great shape, but the cork handle is worn a little more than I like. Is there anything a novice could do to repair or replace the cork handle?

[pureinsanity]

You could try a couple things. One I would try is...

Use a mild soap and water and gently scrub the cork removing grit and grim from the cork handle. Use a soft brush to get down into the pits/splits. Before moving on to the next steps, let the cork completely dry.

Lightly sand the cork handle to remove any rough edges.

Using Elmers's Carpenter's WoodFiller (Golden Oak), carefully fill all pits/splits. Using your finger, work the wood filler gently into those areas. Although it would appear that the filler is dry in 1-2 hours, I recommend that you let it dry for 4-6 hours before lightly sanding down to the cork surface. Take a damp rag and lightly rub the filler and cork to obtain a smooth finish.

Use a cork sealer (U40) to seal the cork and protect the wood filler. It will asorb into the cork. Let the sealer dry 2-4 hours before lightly sanding again.

[pureinsanity]

You could also go with these options to just go over the cork.

Surf Grip Tape

Nu-Skin Rod Armor Grip

Flocked Rubber Shrink Tube

RodWrap Grip Wrap

All this stuff can be bought at most Rod Builder supply companies.

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[upnorth]

Pureinsanity is pretty much spot on. Better off trying to salvage what you unless it is damaged.

[pureinsanity]

Replacing the handle will most likely involved removing the eyes replacing the components and will be more time consuming than the stated option above.

[Get'n Jiggy]

I've been using Rod Wrap for years, works great.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Here's what I have done to fill in gaps (B-I-L's yorkie got at some of my rods once):

Gather up a couple of corks from wine bottles.

Take a rasp and make a nice pile of shavings.

Get some Elmer's waterproof wood glue.

Mix the shavings and glue, and press it into any gaps, leaving excess.

Once thoroughly dry, sand it down. I use a Dremel to get it nearly flush, then hand sand it smooth.

This turns out very nicely. I can only tell where the damage was because I was the one that repaired them. Make sure your glue/cork mixture has a good amount of cork in it.

[CrappieNight]

I used tennis racket wrap in a pinch when I had a grip split. It was going to be temporary.... 3 years later, it's still on there and looking/working fine.

Just another option, a few $$ for 3 wraps and they have some neat designs.

[Huskie]

I like the wine cork idea, going to head to trader Joe's and get a couple of cases of 3 buck chuck, just to make sure I have enough material to work with, thanks for the ideas guys!!!

[A.W.Wolfram]

You would not have to remove the guides and RS if you only needed to replace the rear grip. You could do a reverse build. This is a little more than a first timer task but with a little help its not too hard.

I like to clean cork with alcohol and sand with 200 grit, and as mentioned before, a good water proof glue with cork dust (I ream all of my handles in to a bucket so I always have some on hand) let dry and sand again. You can seal it, but it’s not necessary. Some don't like the feel

[harvey lee]

I have sealed some of my cat rods as the cork tends to get a bit dirty. I added a small amount of small sand to take away the slip feel on the rear grip. It sure keeps the cork looking like new.

[Rodbldr4fun]

I have been following this thread and I am still unsure whether the handle has indeed worn out or whether you are unhappy with the way it looks. That seems to be the case as you have received comments regarding both conditions. If you don't like the way it looks, the problem usually is that it is dirty, which happens to all cork handles if they are used and not sealed. The fix is easy as others have described ... clean with alcohol and lightly sand. You can also fill the little holes and seal.

If your handle is damaged, then it takes more work. If that is the case, I suggest you describe your problem and include a picture or two. That way folks can give you the best options available.

[Huskie]

The handle is worn, but the cork has a few small holes and gouges it it, also just above the bottom handle a one inch by half an inch chunk is missing. Obviously it will never be new again, but with some of the advice given on this thread I think I can repair it without adding too much weight to the rod itself. It will look and function fine for me,

[Nick Kuhn]

I asked at Thorne Bros and they said they would do rear grips on mine for pretty cheap (Couple bucks per inch of cork). Depending on the rods value it may or may not be worth it to go that route. I plan on doing it on one of my muskie rods. The blank is great, but the cork leaves something to be desired. Rather than repair what is obviously low grade cork, I'm just having some high grade stuff replace it.

[upnorth]

You can replace the grips and the seat without pulling the guides etc. Just have to assemble from the rear and build up bushing for the grips and the seat. I don't do things that way but some do a lot of their grips building up bushings. Just need to make sure you completely cover and seal all the tape with epoxy.

[CrappieNight]

If you do decide to replace and build it up as Upnorth has described, I have been using mesh drywall tape (peel and stick) for my bushings. Was given the tip and has turned out to work well, the epoxy gets down to the blank with ease.

[upnorth]

I have heard from more than one person who has used mesh drywall tape with good success. I tried and basically made a huge mess.

[pureinsanity]

I have heard from more than one person who has used mesh drywall tape with good success. I tried and basically made a huge mess.

make sure if you do a remodel on your house you hire a taper than

[upnorth]

I use good paper tape for sheet rock mudding I seem to be able to work with that stuff.

I just found that for me it got to be a slipper sliding mess. I had epoxy all over the place and barely got it all cleaned up before it really set up.

[Rodbldr4fun]

I have used the mesh tape and fell it will last longer/hold better than masking tape (no proof, just thought). When I do that I use fiber glass resin. It dries fairly quickly and can be shaped easily with a rasp or other implement. It adds a bit of weight, but it is on the handle, which usually helps balance the rod tip.

Another method is to use individual cork rings; split them in half, ream to the desired inside diameter and then glue using plastic ties around the rings and a cord handle press normally used to fashion a home made handle.

[upnorth]

I have a 25 + year old fly rod that I use for steelhead fishing that was done with masking tape. Seen tons of use and a fair amount of abuse, that poor rod had the butt end pointed at many a fish and turned in to a big C many times. Still holding up fine.

Is the mesh tape filled with resin or epoxy better. Good chance it is. Not sure it is really going to show up in the lifetime of a rod tho.

The key with using masking tape is to make sure you seal it with the epoxy. If you don't moisture will get in and mess up the tape. Then you can bet on it failing.

[CrappieNight]

I think it's all personal preference. As a carpenter, I worked with an old time pro that wouldn't use a nail gun, he could easily hand nail just as fast as we could while using a gun. He was comfortable and efficient with his method.

I've experimented with different things, being new to building, and plan on finding what works best for me and sticking to it. I like to learn from those that have been building longer than I have and I'm always open to learning other methods.

[upnorth]

Exactly. There are plenty that do that both ways. And both have good results.

This pretty much says it all. Find a way that works for you.

Quote:

He was comfortable and efficient with his method.

[Rodbldr4fun]

I have older rods I have built with masking tape too. None have broken apart either. I have no empirical evidence to suggest either is better. Just seems to me that the resin will hold better and bond better to the epoxy used for the reel seat.

[delmuts]

Sorry for high jacking this thread, but i just got done filling in gaps etc in the fore grip of a spinning rod. After i sand it down, can i spray a light coat of polly urethane over it without hurting anything?I don't build rods so don't have anything else to use.