New-To-Me ATV!!! Yamaha Wolverine

[McGurk]

I have been scouring Craig Slist for a cheap, in-need-of-a-little TLC 4x4 for a while now, and found one close to home last weekend. It's a '95 Yamaha Wolverine 350, that he had parked and let it sit untouched for (he says) 5 years. On my first trip to see it, it was a mess. Filthy, dead battery (of course), bad gas as he didn't drain it, chewed up seat, and a thumb throttle that didn't return to idle postion (Uh-Oh!); it needed my help! We were able to get it running using some redneck know-how and Ether, but the carb did need some serious cleaning as there was no gas getting to the cylinder. I came back with cash a couple of days later, and am hoping that it's not too big of a basket-case.

Looked pretty sound, though, with an aftermarket SuperTrapp slip-on exhaust (DG stamped on the side, but obviously a supertrapp design w/ the baffles. ???), some Dirt Devil 25" tires (better than stock, I guess), and a winch. I've hosed her off good, tried to get the battery going (no chance), and got the airbox cleaned out and crusty old dissentigrates-to-the-touch air filter off. Found that the throttle cable was indeed snapped inside the sleeve, but I am able to use the end out of the carb hanging out freely to play with the throttle as I am not going to chance putting money into it if I can't get it going. Then it was on to the carb.

It's bigger than I expected; a rarely seen Mikuni BTM36SH. It's a 36mm, flat slide, accelerator pump carb used on the old Warriors, I guess. Opened it up and went through it completely, twice. There was a bunch of orange jelly looking stuff in the bowl and some of the ports, which I assume if from the ethanol in the gas that was left in it. I don't have a can of carb-soak, so I'm just spraying and cleaning with carb-cleaner, and blowing it out for now. Everything is in good condition, but I didn't get deep enough to check the needle position yet, so I don't know where that's at. Still has stock jetting, and I think I'll look into some options there to take advantage of the pipe and a new free-flowing air filter.

Long story short, IT RUNS!!! After forgetting to check the pilot jet the first time but getting it on the second run through, it started pretty easily considering the lack of attention it has gotten in recent years. Now, I need to go through the fluids, get the brakes up to snuff, and get a throttle cable so I can drive it so I can see how the drivetrain is. Wish me luck!

[PurpleFloyd]

I had a 1997 Wolverine for a few years. I like the low power to weight ratio it had at the time and it was a blast to drive pretty much everywhere. The one recurring problem that I had with it and the reason it got traded was that the rear differential sucked in water every time I went in water up to the foot pegs. The fluid would turn milky white and would need to be flushed. I tried new bearings, seals etc and was never able to fix it. The brake pads were also very short lived compared to the other atv's I have owned.

All in all I really think you will have fun on that quad. Enjoy...

[PurpleFloyd]

BTW, if you are just playing around in the dirt, take off the winch and it will act like a completely different machine.

[McGurk]

BTW, if you are just playing around in the dirt, take off the winch and it will act like a completely different machine.

How so? Less weight? Thanks for all of the tips!

[McGurk]

Ordered up an air filter and throttle cable yesterday. Can't wait to get those on and take it for it's first slow-and-easy evaluation ride!

[PurpleFloyd]

quote=PurpleFloyd]BTW, if you are just playing around in the dirt, take off the winch and it will act like a completely different machine.

How so? Less weight? Thanks for all of the tips! /quote]

Yes, the Wolverine will feel a whole lot sportier by taking the weight of the winch off the front end. I was surprised how much more limber mine was without one and I always removed the winch before heading up to Iron River, Wi for trail riding.

[trapperdirk]

The wolverine of that time was always a rock solid machine and even still sought after . Dated and almost antique compared to the latest and greatest these days but can still be a solid runner and above all dependable .Easy to work on too .

Congrats on your purchase and all the best to you in getting her ship shape .

TD

[McGurk]

Thanks, Floyd and TD. I hope it's not a basket case, it has been fun wrenching on it so far, with only a few frustrations. I went to change the oil on it and could not get the drain plug to budge, so I progressively got longer wrenches on there to break it. Not only did it not come off, but I may have rounded the corners of half of the bolt head. Not cool. It's still in OK shape, but I am going to have to get creative to get it off now. I NEED TO GET THAT OIL CHANGED!!!

I also tightened up the clutch plates, and went through all of the gears while it was running. They all seem to engage, including reverse. About the suspension, I read somewhere that the front shocks from a similar era Blaster/Warrior/Raptor will bolt on and stiffen the front end right up. I haven't found a positive match but just a bunch of rumors. I am anxiously waiting for that throttle cable and air filter to arrive so I can get my first ride out of it, but I need to do a fluids swap first.

[Rippinlip]

Looks like a job for some Vise Grips and then a new oil plug.

Get the grips on there tight, and still if no luck, keep pressure on the grips and tap the end of the plug at the same time, make sure to shoot it up with either Liquid Wrench or WD40 and let that work for a while, maybe even a day or 2.

Hope it all works out for you. See you on the trails.

[McGurk]

I'm going to try that RL. I got a good 2 day soak of BrakeAway on there, and am headed out to try that. Also, got the throttle cable and mounted it on, only to find that it was the wrong one that they ordered. I've gotta yank it and return it before they order a new one. Oh well.

[McGurk]

Got the oil drain plug off; it was not pretty work. Visegrip didn't work, so I decided to go big or go home. Grabbed a hammer and masonry chisel, and tapped a notch in the outer edge. Then I used that to tap it off, and it actually wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Ugly as sin, but still has a good seal. I'll be keeping my eyes open for a new plug, but this one will work until then.

I was able to make the throttle cable work by removing the keeper nut at the carb, which freed up some threads to give me more cable length. It now goes all the way to the linkage limits and the the idle speed adjustment screw, so it will work after all. If the cable stretches down the road, I still have a lot of room at the thumb throttle to adjust it.

[McGurk]

Got it running smoothly, and did an oil change with it hot. I also swapped out the front and rear diff fluids; the one in back was just a shade darker than coffee with a lot of creamer in it! I think I'll run it for a while, and do another full fluids swap. I did make a run around the block with it, and it seems pretty sound. It does seem to idle high, and I have backed the idle speed adjustment screw further than it seems to make any difference, so hopefully it will slowly work it way down over time. I need to get the front bearings checked out, but for now I think they're OK. It's off to the front brakes, now!

[Macgyver55]

Are you sure the throttle cable is allowing the slide to fully drop to the bottom and touch the set screw? It sounds to me like the cable might just be a hair too short if the idle speed adjustment wont slow it down by turning it.

[McGurk]

I know exactly what you are talking about, as that is how I found out the idle wouldn't settle down. I opened it up, took off the throttle cable, and turned out the idle adj screw until a gap opened up, and then back up to just touch it. I then hooked up the cable, and it went down to touch the screw, so the cable isn't the issue anymore as it is not holding anything back.

Checked the rear diff after the first fluid swap, and it is milky again, with no rain or mudding. Is that common that all of the fluid didn't come out? I'll switch it again and find out for sure regardless.

[Macgyver55]

As long as the cable doesnt stop the slide from dropping all the way, it should be ok. If the cable has no slack it could still be the culprit. At a proper idle it should still have "slack" of about a sixteenth of an inch or so.

Does the carb boot look to be ok, or is it dry and cracked looking? A vacuum leak can sometimes cause a higher idle.

[McGurk]

Thanks for the tips, Mac. There isn't much slack; definitely not a 1/16th. You may very well be right. The boot is good (I just checked that yesterday), and I haven't found any other vacuum leaks. What's a good place to start, or common locations of vac leaks? Thanks in advance!

[Ely Lake Expert]

GL with your wolverine. I had a 2001 and loved it from the day I got it til the day I rolled it down a hill Overall a great machine and I wish I could find another one.