Brakes/Rotors

[DTro]

Not sure why, but I've never done this myself. I've done just about every other "do it yourself" stuff on vehicles, but for some odd reason, never have.

So with that said, any tips for doing this on the front of a 2004 Toyota Rav4? It's metal to metal on the passenger side, so I'm pretty darn sure it will get new rotors while I'm at it.

Thanks

[Macgyver55]

Its pretty straight forward especially if you are doing rotors too. Make sure to clean any rust or scale off the flanges before putting on the new rotors. Clean and grease the slides and pins with a good quality silicone brake grease. If there are stainless inserts, make sure to clean under them and put in new ones. Good quality pads will include them. Make sure to properly torque the wheel studs to avoid future warping of the new rotors.

[skolfoppa]

dtro- You can also find the RAV FSM online for further reference and torque specs. To add to Mac's response- lube the caliper pins and, if you have time, clean and lube the pistons. One other thing that is very important... take your time and properly seat the pads. It is a very important step, unless you find you really enjoy yearly brake jobs. Skol.

[jeffreyd]

Only thing to add is to do one side at a time and use a screw type c clamp to push the caliper piston back into the caliper. you can put the old pad backward against the piston and then the clamp on it to push. Other than that pretty simple, get a can of brake cleaner good luck

[DTro]

Thanks guys, I read somewhere that it could be dangerous on ABS systems to force the piston back in without bleeding the line. Is that correct?

[Scott K]

Dangerous, no, but you can push dirt in to the abs module, and cause some issues. If you want to, swing over to Henderson, and I can do them for you, shouldnt take more then an hour or so.

[DTro]

Thanks Scott, you might have to be my backup plan

So does the rotor just tap off? That is what I assume.

[Jim Uran]

From what I remember it just taps off, It's really easy Darren, sometimes it is best to have a helping hand and after that it's just like riding a bike. I never bring in my vehicle for brake work. It takes like a half an hour and saves you a few bucks for bait and gas

[Jeremy airjer W]

Sometimes tap, Some times they come loose while your removing the capliper, and sometimes you get to beat on them for about 20 minutes with a big old dead blow hammer! They should come off easily for you Dtro.

The other thing to check is the area under the metal shims that the pads rest on. If the old ones are hard to remove from the bracket than the area under those shims is rusted and pinching the pads. This will cause premature wear of the new pads if the rust is not removed. The new pads should install/sklide easily onto the bracket.

Don't skimp on quality! NAPA Adaptive Ones have been good to us! Have the old rotors measured and turned if they still thick enough!

Should be a 2-3 beverage job at the most!

[DTro]

Thanks guys, I bought the Mid-Range NAPA pads, should I get the premos instead?

I'd like to get something close to OEM, as I got 122k out of these!

[Jeremy airjer W]

If they say SS on the box then bring them back. SS stands for Screeching Stop not Safety Stop which the box says. If you don't mind some noise than go for it. Its a 50/50 shot that there will be no issues with them.

[DTro]

Well that went semi OK.

They sure do make those tolerances tight though where the pad notches to fit into the caliper.

The metal clips were a real PITA.

The pads fit much nicer with the clips removed

[Macgyver55]

I sure hope you didn't leave them out. Thats whay I said "If there are stainless inserts, make sure to clean under them"!

If the pads are too tight when installed it can cause premature/uneven wear and/or possible rotor warping. I have had a few sets over the years where I had to file the shoe a tiny bit to get a proper fit and many that just had a drip of paint on the end tab that just needed to be scraped off.

[DTro]

For the sake of argument, let's pretend I did....

What the worst that could happen?

[Jim Uran]

premature wear on the rotors, or your car could go pyscho on you and turn into a robot and.....

I've left the clips out a few times here and there I know it isn't right, but you know what, they still work and I don't have my standards set as high as others

[Scott K]

The stainless insert is in there to prevent the brake pad from rusting the the mount. So if the vehicle sits for a week or so, the pad could rust and the caliper may not be able to push the pad into the rotor to stop you.

[Jeremy airjer W]

There definitely intended to be there as a smooth surface for the pad to slid on.

[Macgyver55]

For the sake of argument, let's pretend I did....

What the worst that could happen?

Do you mean to the brakes in general, or to you?

To the brakes, I'd say shortend life, squeeking/rattling brake pads, warped rotors.

To you, possibly a shortened life also, the ongoing nagging feeling of knowing its not right, and what could happen in court if there were a serious accident where the brakes came into question.

I guess being able to stop properly is more important to me than being able to go. If that is a "high standard", well then my standards are really high!

I wont shortcut brakes!

[DTro]

So not having a clip could cause a catastropic failure without warning?

If so, I'll have to take em apart again, I guess.

Seriously though, there was like no way they were going back in there with the clips on. I got a little tired of playing bloody knuckles.

[Macgyver55]

So not having a clip could cause a catastropic failure without warning?

No, thats actually pretty doubtful. But, if it doesnt fit, something is not right and should be figured out. In this day and age if something did happen, rest assured there is someone out there waiting to pin it on you not doing it right.

Really, in my years as a mechanic I've literally done several hundred brake jobs. If something doesnt fit, its either the wrong or defective part, improperly installed or the surfaces are not clean enough.

[Jeremy airjer W]

So not having a clip could cause a catastropic failure without warning?

No

Can it effect braking performance, yes. Do people drive around with frozen pads and never no it? Every day.

If the pads didn't fit than there is excessive rust build up in the bracket under the shim or like suggested there is an excessive build up of paint or there is a bur from stamping that needs to be removed. I usually sandblast the brackets to remove the rust buildup and then deal with the pad fit accordingly. There usually is not an issue with pad fit if the other parts are prepped properly. However sometimes it is necessary to file down the areas of the pad that make contact with the shim/bracket to get them to fit freely but not sloppy.

[Scott K]

More then likely there is some rust built up in the grooves, that will need to be cleaned out.

[DTro]

Well, they fit really good without the clips

I'll mess with it again this weekend, thanks.

[GotOne]

I'm going to try replacing my rear brakes/rotors on my 2002 Ram. Where is the best place to buy auto parts in Burnsville area. Also, my E-brake locked up last year when I set it on a baot ramp. I was able to work it free, but it sticks a little and squeeks. What is the cure for this? I did the utube deal and got a pretty good idea on how to replace brakes/rotors, so, along with this info, I'm going to tackle this job. Hopefully, I won't screw something up, like I usually do.