Winterizing the boat motor?

[BLACKJACK]

My boat has a 60 HP Johnson. Three things that I've heard for winterizing. 1) Run the engine out of gas or run fuel stabilizer. 2) Fog the engine til it quits. 3) Replace the lower unit oil.

Any other tips? How important is it to replace the lower unit oil? Was thinking that for next year I may start using the stabilizer in mid-summer and then not have to worry about 'winterizing' if I find that the fogging and lower unit change isn't necessary.

Thanks for your input.

[Guest]

Fogging and changing the lower unit is more important than your gas. By changing the lower unit oil any water that maybe trapped inside the lower unit will be drained. By leaving any water trapped inside the lower unit may crack and the gears may rust. Fogging prevents the pistons and cylinder walls from rusting. Another good tip is to tape off the gas inlet and the water outlet with tape to prevent spiders from plugging them up. Leave yourself a note to remember to remove the water outlet tape in the spring. Dont forget to flush any livewell drains with an non-toxic R.V antifreeze. Good Luck.

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MILLE LACS AREA GUIDE SERVICE
http://fishingminnesota.com/millelacsguide/

[This message has been edited by D-man (edited 11-09-2001).]

[Rick]

Here's a piece I wrote on winterizing your boat about 3 years ago.

http://fishingminnesota.com/fishinfo4.html

[slabberknocker]

I just got my boat winterized at Hanney's in NE Minneapolis. I was wondering about the battery. Should you unhook and take the battery out or is it all fight to keep in the boat hooked up. Then also, I was told once that when you put the boat away, to fill the gas tank and add stabilizer. I asked about that and they said i didnt have to because they put enough stabilizer in the tank for the amount of gas I have in the tank and then they started it up to let the stabilizer work into the engine. Does that sound right? Thanks

[Xplorer]

Blackjack,
When you change lower unit oil look to see if it is "milky". If so you should replace the seals on the plugs also. I would suggest getting a pump unit to fill your lower unit (walmart $6) saves alot of the mess.
I also make sure there are no left over chips,sunflower seeds, food of any kind stuffed in the back of some storage area, then put a Bounce sheet in each and a few around the boat for mice.
Slabberknocker,
I always pull my batteries, at the least I would disconnect all wiring (some accesories draw a small amount even when off). Use masking tape to tape together the ones that go on the positive and write POS or "+' on the tape so you dont have to guess next spring (beenthere, done that!)
The stabilizer thing is correct.You want it ru thru the system completely. I usually start to run Seafoam/stabilizer in every tankfull after Oct 1.
Xplorer

[Guest]

Great info xplorer and Rick's link was great. Dont forget to maintain those batteries all winter. Check for voltage and recharge when needed

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MILLE LACS AREA GUIDE SERVICE
http://fishingminnesota.com/millelacsguide/

[delmuts]

it is better to run gas with stabilizer in it when storing the motor. if you run them dry and store it, you have a chance of letting the gaskets dry and crack. if you pull the batteries don't set them on concrete as it will draw the power out of them. also spraying wd-40 works as a drying agent ( if you have some) on connectors on the motor too. otherwise the article tell that rick has covers it.

[wadersneyes]

Rick, on winterizing your boat article,I have done most but am curious about the reason for bag of charcoal? also Engine tune up. Is that a gas additive or a spray prior to fogging your motor? For mice I put moth balls in a 1/2 pint mason jar with holes in the lid. In spring I change the lid to a solid one to store & then switch back inthe fall. Have not had any problems with mice. On repacking wheel bearing I use a short piece of wood closet rod to punch out the back side bearings,works great with no damage to bearings or seals.must be 1 1/4 inch or 1 1/2 inch in diameter.

[Rick]

Charcoal sucks up moisture and keeps mildew/other odors down as well.

[TUMBLEWEED]

A word of caution on the use of the charcoal!! You are right about the charcoal
absorbing the moisture.However,it is a little known fact,that after getting wet charcoal
can spontaneous combust and start a fire!!!
This as I said before,is a little known fact.
I did not know this myself,until recently I was made aware by a friend of a friend who happened to be a fire inspector. He compared it to the oily rags thing,where if conditions
are right,it just ignites. So,while it may indeed dry out your bilges and boat,you may want to be on the safe side and find another
way to do this.Food for thought.....

[This message has been edited by TUMBLEWEED (edited 11-19-2001).]

[Guest]

best advice.....change lower unit oil...put stabilizer in gas tank,,,unhook gas line and run out of gas.....period....

[Guest]

opps........also put your batteries in your basement and charge them every couple of months...

[Guest]

Lets not shoot ourselves in the foot.
#1. If you put fuel stabilizer in the gas and run it through the motor DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR OUT OF GAS.
If you run the motor out of gas and then add stabilizer you increase the chances of the carbuerator gumming up. When you "run the motor out of gas" you still leave gas in the carbs. This gas goes stail easily and leaves sediments in spots you don't want.
Before your last trip out, put either Sea Foam or Stabile in the gas. When you are done, shut the motor off, go home and change the lower gear lube and refill (properly).
Let the fuel stabilizer do its job.
PCG