In-floor heating options?

[LundExplorer]

Does anybody have experience with owning/installing an in-floor heating system? I am about to undertake a kitchen remodel project, strongly considering a tile floor, but would like to heat it. I've seen the wire, wire mat, hot water (tube under tile), and the hot water under the subfloor options.

What are the factors to consider when choosing? Is this a DIY type project? (I have done a lot of my own work and am capable, just have not done this) I have about 350 sq ft of floor space (walkway/open floor area) that I want to heat. Any idea on cost?

Thanks

[Stratosman]

If it were me I would go with the loose wire and clips, that way it can be formed to the shape of the room, the mats you see at the home imp. stores cannot be cut, the can be connected together, but they are expensive, I think around $100 for a 3x6 mat.. you would beed a bunch. The only upside of the mats for tile is that they can be floated over with the tile thinset, while the loose layed with the clips will need a level of self leveling underlayment over it to cover the wires and clips. (all the clips I have ran into are about 1/4 - 5/16"+) this will add to the cost as well, about .75 per sq.ft if you can do it yourself. THe thing to remember is to put down a layer of 3/8" BCX then the yellow plastic lath before the self leveler is installed, it also needs to be primed according to manufacturer instructions. You will save a bit on not needing the required tile backer as you can tile directly on the leveling product. But you will probably have a net gain of about 1-3/8" to 1-5/8" depending on pour thickness and tile thickness. So keep all that in mind.

Others may have opinions on water, but I think that it would add significantly more cost with the bioler, the top layed would be the most effecient, but you will gain alot of floor height with a mud bed needed to cover the pex, while the under mount I think you loose alot of heat.

It adds alot of cost to the project but a nice warm tile floor makes it all worth while in the end....

Hope that covers at least some of your questions.

[minneman]

Do you just want a warm floor or the ability to heat the room ?

[Chef]

Wirsbo

[LundExplorer]

I'm looking to heat the floor only since our first choice of flooring looks like it will be tile.

I know that wirsbo is highly recommended, and if it was a new construction I'd definitely do that but since its a remodel I have floor buildup issues, can't make it too thick or it will start interfering with doors. I wish I had thought of this last fall when I replaced the front door with a $3K Pella door. Not going to mess with that...

So it looks like I am down to an electric (wire or mat systems) - the mat systems look expensive and the wire systems are just on the edge of the floor build-up I can tolerate.

I don't know much about an in-the-joist system, this could be either hot water or electric. I would be willing to rip out the ceilings in the lower level to get access to do this, if it is worthwhile. Plus it would give me the opportunity to re-duct the forced air system and potentially do a zoned system which the house needs. It would also allow me to do this at a later date, when the kitchen is done, save the expense for later...

Any other advice? Thanks to the people who have posted.

[Redlantern]

I think you're better off going with the electric. I've installed some infloor heat (Wirsbo) before and most homeowners aren't happy with the results of running it in the joist space. Then you have the added cost, which is considerable, of having a boiler, expansion tank, pump, controls, etc. for the wirsbo system. If what you are looking for is just to keep the tile warm when you walk on it, the electric is the way to go, in my opinion.

[deerminator]

We have a wirsbo floor on our main level and love it under the porcelein tile and engineered wood. It's also a wonderful way to heat a large area with high ceilings. While Wirsbo doesn't sound like the route you want to go, I would say the heated floor under the tile is the way to go on a cold January morning when you stumble into the kitchen or bathroom. Plus a lot of people complain about the hard tile or wood floors doing a number on their back versus carpet when the real culprit is that wood or tile are much colder (running up your spine) if not heated.

[furnace man]

GO electric your floor height can stay low. Water heat is not practical it would cost to much to install and would be just as much to run considering you would more than likely go with electric boiler.

How ever electrical will FAIL !!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will garrenty it. Hot water heat meaning the tube will not fail but the boiler will but you can fix that and not have to remove the floor.

something to think about.

that is my 2 cents worth coming from someone that does it for a living.

[furnace man]

As far as putting in the trusses. There is new product out there that does a great job you just have to ins. it properly other wise it does not work as eff as needed. but like redlantern said there is extra costs.

[Smoker]

I prefer the wirsbo Over the elect. I have seen and heard of to many elect in floor going bad. Some are not that old. At least with a boiler you can get at it to repair it. The cost might be more at first but you know you won't need to rip the floor up latter to replace any of it.

[Scott K]

I was looking into something to warm my bathroom floor in my basement. What I came up with is them new vinel/rubber type tiles. They wont heat the room, but they will keep the floor from being so cold and insulate the cement floor. This wont work to heat the room, just to keep the floor warmer.

[Tom7227]

Bet you can buy a hell of a lot of pairs of slippers for the cost of what you're considering. A friend did a small wirsbo project using a water heater and a small pump which may keep the price down somewhat. I would think you'd have to be out greasing the meter monthly if you went with an electric system.

[chad austin]

As tom had stated you can use a hot water heater instead of a boiler and manual manifolds can be made instead of using manufactured manifolds that are very costly as well.

Going with a hot water system there is one thing to keep in mind - it will take a while for any temp. changes that you make with the manifolds.

[Smoker]

Be sure to check your local codes first before using a water heater. Some areas do not alow it.

[primetime49]

I just turned on our electric 5 k boiler for floor heat in 22x30lower level kitchen with 12 foot ceiling and granite floor this fall

this also heats 2 bedrooms above that have 10 foot ceilings and a lot of windows with batton above foil-face and yes carpet on top of that

the 5 k is rated for upto 700sq feet so I got brave and pushed the limits we are heating over 1200 sq feet with it

its zoned for 3 areas in kitchen and 2 in each bedroom

Zone means the turn of small mini faucet watch the gauge to see water flow and bang its on up or off and anywhere in between

we absolutly love it

total costs to us were $250 for complete tank boiler all on 3x 4 plywood sheet[was a disply at home shows this winter

another $300 for pex tubing

another $400 for manifolds

another $400 for labor that I as a cripple couldnt do[idid all granite pexlayout board and batton and plywood sub floor installation crawling to do

total costs without floor materials$1350

if I would have had kellys do all layout except granite lay and batton and subfloor with them providing all labor and materials[boiler tank manifolds pex all it would only have been $2850

we are running boiler at only 82 dgrees and keeping kitchen with 12 foot ceiling 8 6 foot high windows 2 large exit doors at 70 and bedrooms at 68

last 3 months our whole house heating dropped [5 dollars a day average],it made other basement rooms much more comfortable also

house finsihed part is 4100 square feet and it isnt cheap to heat a house that size

going to remodel other basement level this spring[last done 1984] and add it in ceiling to heat 5 rooms above and only going to add another 5k boiler system and run them seperate going to see if another 5 k will heat the 1200sq ft in this remodel project[est about $2500doing it myself for system and sheetrock replacement [cant wait ti see what it does for getting rid of forced air furnace noise and air dust pollen movement[best part is silence

so here it is we love it and it is running a much smaller set up much lower setting than suggested and we are warmer more comfortable and quite-er than ever at home

and the best part all the parts in this system come from a Mn mfr so replacement is same day for upkeep

have had some real issues with grid pads

code here is you have to have another heat system with it so if we shut it down[which we havent done we still turn on regular forced air furnace till it catches up]

dogs and cat have moved to kitchen floor and do not move around house at all and ditto for wife,i get more privacy as shes barefoot in the kitchen[wow thats where a model home is supposed to be]