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Building my first perm shack...help!!!!!!


DuckBlind

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Got the walls bolted down, wondering if anybody has any advice for connecting the corners together where the studded walls meet...? Would screwing them together be strong enough or should I bolt them?

Paneling the inside and using aluminum siding...

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I'd see about adding in another window. If you like to run tip-ups, one window will be tough. I've seen people set-up their shacks with plywood flaps on hinges for around the base. They just used simple latches to hold them in place when up. I'd just make sure that they won't touch the ice and freeze in. I have a 6x8 shack that sleeps 2 for ML, tables and benches that fold up or down to convert into bunks at night work great. One solid top bunk that folds up to the ceiling to hold cushions, blankets, etc. Hole covers are up to you. The 5 gallon pail idea is good.

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It needs to vented yes...I dropped the house off at a buddys yesterday. He is going to pipe out the heater and finish the electric for me.

We have 2 lights running off a battery and he is SOMEHOW hooking it up to a converter so we can plug in the cord outside to a generator too...there will be 2 computer fans in opposite corners as well...

Should be ready for Saturday!

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Couldn't you take the tires off and set it on blocks to have it a little closer to the ice? That would probably get you about 6 inches closer to the ice so you wouldn't have to use the pails. I've seen guys do this. Seemed to work pretty well.

Wouldn't putting 4 pails down the holes and banking a little extra snow be easier than removing 8 or 10 lug nuts out on a cold lake, dropping it onto blocks, then having to jack it back up to put the nuts on be easier? When it's time to leave it's nice to just drive away. I suppose if you were going to leave it in one spot for extended periods of time it might be worth the hassle.

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Use sleeves in holes and make skirting to go around outside. Old used paneling cut to fit works, and tarp can be cut and attached to outside edge and rolled up when traveling. Friend has a house that sets off ice and floor is very cold and holes freeze up. Don't forget fans to blow air down sleeves.

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That house is awesome... I love to see pictures and stories like this. A guy has an idea \ vision, with a little know how, sweat, and time and you get a good outcome.

Check the spare tire pressure and have you checked or repacked the bearings?

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Thanks for the ideas...might by the sleeves that slide into the catch covers but they are $$$$$ and I am guessing someone would walk off with them.

Buckets are an option...

I like the idea of hanging canvas/paneling along the side...that is an option.

Also thought about dropping it down to the frame and taking the wheels off but then again that might be a pain on the lake...

The house is doubled up with 5/8 plywood...the old treated and a new layer that we put on. With the carpet and that heater I think it should be fine on the floor, we have 2 fans going in to get the air moving too.

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Well I put more $$$ into than my wife would like but it turned out KIND OF cheap...

The windows, heater, trailer and electric (fans, battery, wiring) were all free from buddies of mine. And most of the trim boards were free too. One works on computers, one scraps cars/campers and the other sells paneling/roofing material.

The plywood for the benches/wheel covers were all salvaged from the old camper beds. Same with the camo bench cushions.

The carpet a buddy had just laying around.

The siding was about $300

Paneling was about $110

Lumber was about $100 (went with 2x2's for most of the walls and 2x4's for the roof)

Toss in hardware, bandaids, a lot of mich light and propane to heat my garage when it was -10...figure we spent around $700 total between 3 guys.

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We are building one on the same size pop-up trailer as yours. ALL the wood in ours was rotted out, so we stripped it down to the frame and made it into a drop down. Walls and roof are sandwich panel/w 2.5 in insulation and covered with fiberglass board inside and out. Need to put on winches,taillights, and a couple windows. Winches and taillights should be the only additional expense. So far, we are out about 90 bucks for the treated floor and screws. Oh, and a whole lot of "elbow grease" also! Hoping to get it out for a "trial run" this wknd, even though it's not quite done yet.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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