Custom Bar Top

[SM1]

Ok, so this is going to be more of a fish house table but still the same idea as many of the custom wood bar tops around the area.

I have a butcher block style table top: about 2'X2' and about 1" thick, unfinished. I would like to finish it with a clear polyurethane (sp?) type coating and have a walleye sticker "inlay" or something like that. Also use a hole saw to cut in 4 holes for cup holder inserts.

Does anyone have experience with somthing like this? I have never done it and would like this to turn out nice.

Additional idea's welcome!

[Eric Wettschreck]

Another idea.......

Before you apply the finish, take a wood burner and burn in a fish outline. After you apply the finish take an 1/8" drill bit and using the fish outline, drill youself a built in cribbage board. I did this on mine and it's pretty darn cool. No more looking for the cribbage board when the fish arn't biting cuz it's built in.

Concerning the finish, I would use a satin polyurethane. Not a high gloss. Apply a coat, allow to dry, sand out the air bubbles with 600 grit, clean up and apply a few more coats in the same fashion.

[Bearcat]

My experience with urethane has lead me to believe the following. I like the high gloss finish better. Just seems to pop more.(satin finish owuld be my choice inside my home) Don't go cheap on the brush use a good quality brush with multiple thin well dried coats. stir contents well shaking promotes bubbles that need to be sanded out with fine paper.

[Bryce]

Used bar coat for just such a project. Comes pre-packaged. Believe I got it at the orange box store.

[SM1]

Im not much of an artist so I think if I tried burning in a picture it would ruin it. If it was done right I think a burned in picuture would look great.

Thanks for the info so far. I going to keep looking for something to use for the inlay. I think I have seen people just put in pictures of fam and friends and coat over them.

I'll put up some pics when I get going.

[bearslayer]

I did it with a kit from big box store and it turned out pretty well. Very easy to do. Once you have everything set with the surface and whatever you're putting in there, just mix the ingredients, pour and level, and then heat with a torch on low to bring bubbles to the surface. Let dry and put on 2nd coat if want to. Stuff is messy though, very sticky.

[Surface Tension]

I've used a polyurethane product called Liquid Plastic.

It'll give you that tough as nails finish in a thick coating like looking through glass.

When I looked it up in a search I know I didn't pay the $50 a pint that I saw on line. I had a gallon of the stuff and didn't pay anything close to that.

For a 2x2 top with an inlay of a walleye picture.

I'd go with a polyurethane or a lacquer clear coat.

That will depend on the print. Choose which ever one that doesn't react with the ink.

Don't stir the can. All that'll do is get air bubbles.

Prep the surface first. Sanding from a coarse grit down to a fine grit. You can brush on a sanding sealer or get your first coat on, let dry then steel wool. Don't over brush as to introduce air bubbles and keep the edge wet as you brush.

Let dry completely and steel wool again.

Second coat, figure out where your print will go, brush on you poly and get the print on it fast. Finish the second coat while getting a coat on the print. Steel wool again but take it easy when coming to the print. Your pretty much just taking any air bubble off at this point. Third coat, let dry, steel wool, then forth coat. By this time you should have the brush down pat and know that you'll be done well before that poly starts to tack.

If your spraying lacquer the steps will be the same.

Post a picture when your done.

[Snowking]

just use mineral oil. just keep putting coats on untill it doesnt soak it up. thats what goes on cutting boards

[SM1]

Here is the blank canvas:

And the other side with less color:

[Surface Tension]

MY post assumed you wanted a table top.

Like Snowking said, if this is going to be a cutting board then mineral oil is what you'll want to use.

[SM1]

No ST you are right. I plan to make a table top from this piece of wood.

It was originally from the top off an old dishwasher, I think it was made to be used as a cutting board, but this one was never cut on and always covered with a cloth. I dont think the dishwasher was used much either. So it is in good condition. The plan is for this to end up as a table in my fish house. It will be put on a pedestal/removable post for when its not in use.

[hydro]

Here is my two cents. First sand the maple smooth, to 180 grit. Next, brush on a coat of clear gloss polyurethane. Minwax brand is good stuff and easy to find. Sand this coat with 120 grit paper to remove all the dust nubs. Between all subsequent coats sand with 180 or 240 grit white sandpaper on a hard foam sanding block. The white is a no-clog coating and makes a lot of difference. Don't use a wood block, it will cut through. Using finer sandpaper is not worth the time as you won't see the scratches from even 180.

If you want to put a picture in, brush a second coat and put the picture in the coat, brushing over the top. Be sure it lays flat or you will cut it sanding between coats. Keep sanding and re-coating until it is smooth enough for your liking. If you want a semi gloss look, use the semi gloss varnish for the last coat only or your finish will look cloudy.

If you see lots of bubbles when you brush and they don't flow out, try putting the can of varnish on the coffee maket hot plate until it is warm. The varnish will flow out much better that way.

Here's a picture of the bar that I made for my basement, three coats gloss, one coat semi.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v618/hydro1/bartop.jpg