keeping OB motor ready for winter use...

[CALVINIST]

I have a 15 hp johnson that I plan on using well into the fall this year and am wondering what to do about keeping the water components from freezing up. Do I have to keep it indoors? Any other options? Thanks in advance.

[markkstanley]

Just turn the engine over a few times when you pull it out to make sure no water is left in the system and keep your battery on a trickle charge. That's all I do and I have been running my boat all winter for a decade now. Wouldn/t hurt to keep in a garage but not necessary.

[CALVINIST]

thanks Mark.

[marine_man]

Check out this thread:

Using an Outboard in Freezing Weather

marine_man

[CALVINIST]

Check out this thread:

Using an Outboard in Freezing Weather

marine_man

good stuff there too, thanks.

[jwmiller33]

is there anything else a guy should do to keep his motor in good shape for using about twice a week for the rest of the fall? i have a mid 80s johnson 35hp and it usually starts up just fine. was out all today and once you get it warmed up it runs just fine. i store it in a non heated garage, does this help at all? thanks -jwmiller

[Northlander]

Make sure lower unit lube is good and drain as much water as you can out of it after each use. I also recomend Amsoil for better cold weather starts.

[jwmiller33]

Make sure lower unit lube is good and drain as much water as you can out of it after each use. I also recomend Amsoil for better cold weather starts.

how do you do that?

[propster]

One thing you should do is after you pull it out of the lake, trim it straight down and let everything drain before putting it back up for trailering.

[propster]

"how do you do that?"

"One thing you should do is after you pull it out of the lake, trim it straight down and let everything drain before putting it back up for trailering."

Sorry, I didn't read the link MM provided before posting the above, that's what's discussed there. Apparently jw didn't either though!

[jwmiller33]

yes, i knew to trim down your motor to get all the water out.. i do that everytime i pull my boat out, even in the spring and summer months.. the question i had was pertaining too keeping the motor in good running shape during the fall... like i said, i knew to trim down the motor to get all the water out. i looked thru that other thread and it seemed to only talk about getting the water out of the motor after pulling out of the water. i was looking for other things like the gear lube things northlander said

[theoilman]

Concerning your lower unit lube: Have you ever had any water in it when serviced in the past (either water to first drain out when pulling the drain screw or oil milky)? If you have had water problems in the past the only real solution is change the lower unit oil much more often through the winter. If you have had no water problems in the past you can probably get by with a lower unit oil change now and not worry about it too much for the winter. Unless you hit a stump or hang line in the prop and bend a shaft or cut a seal - then tend to the repair and oil change immediately.

Which oil? I recommend AMSOIL Marine Gear Lube. It will tolerate up to 10% water and not lose lubrication protection. However it won't give you freeze protection!

[Northlander]

JWmiller there are 2 screws in the lower unit. To check the lower unit lube pull the top one out then the bottom one and drain out the lube. If it white and milky you have water issues and you need to get that lower unit looked at and sealed up properly.

If it looks good then replace it with a good lower unit lube. Again I suggest Amsoil. I have had very good luck with their products. You will either need a pump to do this or a extra set of hands to help.

Get the lube into the lower unit by squirting it into the lower hole until it starts coming out the top hole. When it does keep constant pressure there until you can get the bottom screw in the lower unit.

Tighten both screws and your all set.

water is a lower units enemy in freezing temps so make sure that lower unit lube is good.

Hope this helps answer your questions.

[jwmiller33]

You will either need a pump to do this or a extra set of hands to help.

Get the lube into the lower unit by squirting it into the lower hole until it starts coming out the top hole. When it does keep constant pressure there until you can get the bottom screw in the lower unit.

what kind of pump are you talking about? or how would i do it with another guy? im pretty sure i can get a buddy to help me. so does the lube come in a little toothpaste type of tube? how much should i buy? do i need one of those grease type guns to get it in there or...? thanks much

[mojogunter]

You don't have to have a pump to fill your lower unit the pump it just makes it easier. You can just use the plastic tip on the lube bottle. Just cut the tip off and screw the tip into the lower hole and then squeeze the lube into the lower unit until it comes out the top hole. When it does come out the hole then unscrew the lube and quickly replace the lower screw, and then the upper screw. I think with the smaller motor you have one tube of lube should fill it. I know I need a couple to fill my 225. One other thing that hasn't been mentioned is that if you have oil injection, and you are running it in really cold weather using synthetic injection oil is a good idea so it flows freely and you won't seize the motor. If you mix the gas it doesn't matter. I was with a guy last year that seized his motor in Red wing on a 20F morning.

[jwmiller33]

thanks for the input guys. i was doing some random google searching on changing lower unit lube and i kept running into "changing lower unit oil"... is this the same thing? from the description i read, it sounded like the same thing, but sometimes it was referred to as lube and others as oil? can someone clarify?

[Northlander]

Same thing. My 115 takes just a bit more than a quart so Im guessing you could get by with 1 tube. Go to any marine dealer and they will have what you need.

Or if your in Duluth/Superior any time soon you can swing by my place and we can do it in no time. I have everything we need including the Amsoil lower unit lube.

[MuskieJunkie]

Or if your in Duluth/Superior any time soon you can swing by my place and we can do it in no time. I have everything we need including the Amsoil lower unit lube.

Northlander, I'll be there in 3 and half hours with my F115, plus then we can take it out on one of these 8 hour trolling runs you were talking about thus saving the hours on yours.

No I'm kidding, great of you to offer the help.

[jwmiller33]

Same thing. My 115 takes just a bit more than a quart so Im guessing you could get by with 1 tube. Go to any marine dealer and they will have what you need.

Or if your in Duluth/Superior any time soon you can swing by my place and we can do it in no time. I have everything we need including the Amsoil lower unit lube.

thanks for the offer northlander! i wish i was still around duluth but i am in saint paul for school. i would definitely take you up on the offer because i am going at this with no experience/knowledge of how to do it, but it sounds pretty doable. i'm going to go get some lube after class today and do it.

[jwmiller33]

ok so here are two pics of my lower unit... sorry for the picture quality, it was taken with a cell phone. anyways, i think i found the two screws you guys are talking about. i labeled them A and B in the pic...

are these the right 2 screws to unscrew? they are both "standard". in the pic with "B" in it there are two screws right next to each other, one is standard and the other is either the star or phillips shape, i'm not sure.

am i looking at the right two screws here guys?

[JimBuck]

Yes sir. I have a Mariner and the location of the screws is nearly identical to yours. As for the additional screw next to the flathead in B I'm not sure what that is for? I'm sure somebody will chime in to further answer your question.

[jwmiller33]

ok thanks. now it is my understanding that when refilling with oil/lube, that you fill it from the bottom hole, and then when it comes out the top you put the top screw back in and then the lower one...

to me it would make sense to fill from the top, and put the bottom screw in first, followed by the top screw, that way you would have minimal loss of oil/lube when putting the screws back in... is there a specific reason why you do this? do you have to do it the first way i mentioned? thanks much

[jwmiller33]

also, i'm planning on replacing my spark plugs, as well as fogging my motor. i have read all the threads on winterizing, and i just want to make sure i get this fogging this right. so you go buy some fogging oil and while the motor is running, you spray it into the engine... i'm not exactly sure where to spray this. if i take a pic of my motor with the cover off could someone show me where to spray this stuff? also, you just spray it until the motor dies, right? should you be able to start the motor right up after or what are you supposed to do then?

also, can a guy buy that amsoil lower unit oil/lube at walmart? or where in saint paul might a guy buy this stuff without having to drive around the metro thru all the traffic?

[Northlander]

I believe the reasoning is that you wont have air trapped in the lower unit and that area could hold moisture. Filling from the bottom up makes sure you have all the area filled with lube.

Go to Amsoils HSOforum and check for dealers near you.

I do recomend getting a hold of a Amsoil sponsor and paying their $20 prefered customer deal and get a nice break on your Amsoil product.

As far as fogging your motor Im not sure on that make. Ill let a real Pro help you out. Im sure its very simple though.

[Surface Tension]

Put your gas stabilizer in the gas tank and mix it up. Be sure to have the muffs on or outboard and run till the treated gas gets tot he carb. Fogging spray through carb while the outboard is running.

You have to fill from the bottom hole. The top hole is the oil level. Add oil till it comes out the top hole. If you tried filling it through the top oil you'll just make a mess. The air that is displaced by the oil needs to come out that top hole.