Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Killing a lawn with trees


CAMAN

Recommended Posts

Next week I'll be killing off my old weed choked lawn in preparation of landscaping it over the summer and reseeding it at the end of summer. I have quite a few large mature trees (Ash, Cedar, Maple, Oak). They are all pretty healthy and I don't want to risk damaging them. How careful do I need to be around them and the exposed roots? Is their a distance I should stay away or can I go right up to them. I'll be using Round-Up Weed and Grass Killer Concentrate but if there's something else better available I'm willing to try it.

Thanks!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I spray a nonselective herbide around trees quite a bit with a hand held sprayer to cut down on trimming...havent hurt a tree yet.

I would suggest spraying around the trees by hand for as far out from the tree that you would be comfortable with a broadcast sprayer. And try not to spray the trees.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would be a little hesitant doing that. Not because of the trees, but because of the weeds in the lawn. If it's as bad as you say, even after you kill all the weeds there'll be alot of weed seeds left in the lawn, and when you put all the effort and $ into seeding the lawn and you see a bunch of weeds popping up, it's gonna be frusturating. I'd start all over, remove the top layer of soil and put down black dirt and sod. It's alot more $ and labor, but it's definitely worth it. Just my .02

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm with fish.

If you're doing it just to get rid of the weeds, you're better off using a selective herbicide and just killing the weeds, then overseeding.

Get a good quality fertilizer, keep watering. Kill the weeds again, overseed again.

The weed seeds will be in your yard for a long time and keep popping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah what LwnmwnMan2 said. Its easier and cheaper to hit it with selective herbicides then to start a new lawn completely. The weed seeds will come right back with the new grass seed. Go grab some lawn weed feed combo for now then do a over seed come fall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't spray anything that is ment for a broad leaf around trees. TREES are in the end a broad leaf plant and any kind of spray like Round-up may 1.)stunt the growth of a tree or 2.) Kill them. On the other hand it might get very expencive to lay down new black dirt on your whole lawn as you would have to lay at least 6 inches of sterile black dirt over the whole lawn to completly snuff out any seeds that might germinate and even then theres no guarante.

If it were me I would do as suggested above and use some sort of weed and feed fertlizer and get rid of the seed that the growing plants sow into the soil. It won't all happen this year but if you get rid of the weeds before they seed out this year then there will be less seeds next year and so on and so forth. WEED & FEED is my advise. NO harsh weed killer around trees.

I know some will say that Round up and that kind of weed killer does not harm trees but, I have seen it first hand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unless weeds are super bad you may be able to turn it around by just fertlizing it a couple of times, aerating in the fall and then putting down some seed and starter fertlizer in September or so. That worked for me. Killing it all, not matter if you bring in new dirt or not, is still going to result in weed seeds being in place. If you grow the grass correctly it will choke out the seeds and you'll be in good shape by mid-summer next year. Sod has it's own problems with die back, requires a lot of watering, plus you have all the work of removing all the old material.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice guys!! I guess I was under the impression that the killer would also get the seeds.

To give you a better idea of what I'm dealing with the house was built in 1920 the previous owner let everything go. Never mowed, allowed the trees to overgrow, had junk laying all over the place, etc.. After I bought the house I did a full remodel inside and out. Now there are areas that have been damaged from the construction, areas that are solid weeds (you name it I probably have it growing), quite a few totally bare spots, and only a few areas that actually have healthy green grass. There are also a few stumps that I have to grind down.

I'm planning on putting rock and landscaping all around the house so I'll still be killing those areas but if its still a better idea to use a selective herbicide on the rest of the lawn, whats recommended for the large variety of weeds I have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A good broadleaf herbicide will get rid of most of the weeds, unless they're grassy weeds.

Crabgrass will be prevented next season, with a preventer.

A good broadleaf herbicide = checking the active ingredient percentage, making sure you're not getting something too watered down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.