Might be building a Garage..

[Pickelfarmer]

We might be building a garage this spring and I'm just wondering what I should do for the thickness of the concrete on the floor. I'm thinking 4 inches. Is that enough? Also do I need to have it on a foundation with footings or can it be a floating slab? This is going to be a detached garage and for cars and light trucks only. Thanks.

[BehindtheHead]

you would have to check your building codes if you can have a floating slab.

[croixflats]

4 inches more than enough get buy with 3. And a floating slab is ok.

One think for a floating slab and I think its the important part is the base below it. 4 to 6 inches of class 5 gravel pack with a plate compactor every 2 inches to desired depth. This will go along way in preventing cracks in the concrete slab.

Behindthehead is right check with local codes to make sure

[Slowhand]

Off topic, but Picklefarmer, signature line is priceless

[croixflats]

Laugh out load on so many levels.

[GSB Ice Man]

If you can get by with a floating slab, 4" of concrete will be plenty with the right base below. I pour approx. 10-15 floating slabs a year. Just make sure you have it done to your local codes as far as perimter footing depths and reinforcement requirements.

[Pickelfarmer]

Off topic, but Picklefarmer, signature line is priceless

True story!!!! I was fishing with the little guy last summer and thats what I heard!! "Dad? Dad"? and I'm like, "What"? He goes,"I think my bobber just fell off". I was looking the other way, and at the time I had a bite of my own. I didn't look, I just asked," Why do you say that"? He says,"I can't see it anymore"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I turned and looked and sure enough,nothing. Turns out it was a small bass took it under LOL. In between laughs I told him to set the hook and REEL it in!!!!

[lovebigbluegills]

Pickelfarmer,

Are you thinking of putting in floor heat?

[crothmeier]

We did a floating slab when we poured a freind of mines garage.

Make the perimeter edges thicker, 10-12" and 4" everywhere else, and dont forget REBAR REBAR and MORE REBAR. Dont have to worry about cracks then.

Double check with local building codes before doing anything!

Building inspectors are like the police, if you catch them on a bad day, you will have an even worse day.

[Pickelfarmer]

No I don't think I will be putting in floor heat. I know I should but this is going to be a bare bones kind of garage. If I had a little more money I would love it but I just want to get something up to get in out of the weather in the winter and also somewhere to store stuff year round. I will check into what the building code is in my area. Thanks guys.

[lovebigbluegills]

One option if you think you'd want it down the road, is to just put the tubing into the floor.

[Marbleye'd]

I 2nd the tubing in the floor. I have to share a little story about my little guy. Back when he was about 3 i think. He was acking up and wasn't doing what he was told. So I told him it wasn't up for debate....he a gave me a strange look...So I asked him "Do you even know what debate is?" He goes "YEAH" what? "WORMS!!" I hit the floor laughing and had to give him a hug. I was so proud! LOL

[Pickelfarmer]

So I asked him "Do you even know what debate is?" He goes "YEAH" what? "WORMS!!" I hit the floor laughing and had to give him a hug. I was so proud! LOL

Now thats funny there The things they come up with??? I wish I could remember them all.

If I put the tubing in a floating slab with out using it won't that digrade the concrete. Or will it be just as strong with the tubing in?

Also I talked to a buddy of mine that said that the tubing is nothing special,just like rubber hose? Is that true?

[Marbleye'd]

No it wont hurt a thing. The tubing is just that... tubing it's hard red or clear plastic. epex or something like that I think it's called. After the ground is packed down they put foam down the staple the tubing down.

[Marbleye'd]

Oh and dont forget the drain. I wish I had one.

[BeezeHound]

I second the floor drain, that's a must. You never know how valuable they are until you go from having one to not having one.

[opsirc]

wish I had put a floor drain in my when I build it. One thing I would do over is make it bigger. fiqure out how big you will need it, then add half again as big. Thought my 24x32 would do, how wish I had a few more feet.

[LOTWSvirgin]

If you happen to use aquapex or wirsbo whatever you want to call it make sure you put a floor drain in to. You dont want mold. My dad has a plumbing shop and when I use to work with him we put this in more than a few garages. Not all but some ended up with mold if it didnt have the floor drain

[BoxMN]

If drain isn't possible due to code, you can always slant the floor toward the big doors. That is what I did, and it works very well. 2.5" over 28 feet.

We also put a 12" trench down the middle of the 36' wide floating slab, just for added confidence. My cousin poured it, and said we didn't really need it, but the added cost of a bit more concrete and rebar wasn't that much for the confidence it would give me. No cracks in 8 years so far. But he really spent time on the base prep.

I just built another garage up north, and didn't do the wirsbo in it, and I regret it. I would just do the insulation and tubes for now, and then heat when you want or have the extra cash. But it would be nice to have at least tubes in there if you can swing it, as we have it in the cabin slab and it is REALLY NICE But if you never plan on heating or needing heat, then maybe not worth it.

edit - oh yeah, we did 4", with 12" footings, but with 4400# mix I think, if I recall correctly, just a bit heavier than usual... and a lot of rebar.

[ccarlson]

I built a 30x40 4 years ago now and did a floating slab 4" thick but I used the fiber cement rather than rebar and have had no problems with cracks. The perimiter is 12" wide and 10" thick. Be sure to not finish the cement to such a point that it gets slick. The fibers also help with non slip to a small degree.

The unique thing I did was to put attic trusses in so I now have a 15' x 40' storage area above. I have an oversized pull down door to reach it. I would consider permanent steps too if space allows you to.

I placed my floor drain exactly where it would need to be so that when I pull the boat in, I can pull the plug (livewell or other) and the water runs right in.

One thing I did was then put on 2 courses of rockface block before building the walls. Gives a higher ceiling height without the extra wood, sheeting and siding.

Also, go with over sized doors. Mine are on the gable end and are 8'high x18wide and 8'high x9' wide.

I also did a 6x12 slab outside the garage for the dog kennel and made a pass through wall to a 6x6 kennel inside. I then extended the rafter tails over the kennel area and roofed it so they are out of the elements.

Good luck,

ccarlson

[castmaster]

When I built mine I went with a 5000lb mix that had granite added into the mix for extra strength. Then instead of having saw cust for he expansion joints like most, they used foam strips to cause the slab to "crack" where needed, so now instead of having deep saw cuts that collect dirt I have a nice falt smooth surface with just hairline expansion"cracks" instead of cuts.

If you plan on using it as any type of workshop space as opposed to just storage I'd also recommend doing an epoxy coating over the cement after the garage is up. I did mine with an industrial epoxy coating(much stonger and thicker than the stuff at Menards etc) and I'd do it again if it cost twice what it did. Makes clean up much easier, and also just makes it feel more "homey" than the bare concrete.

Floor drains are nice, but if adding one I'd recommend just doing a round drain. I put a trench style drain with grating over it along the width of the overhead door, and it is a PAIN keeping leaves and other junk out of it, and also seems to attract small nuts/bolts etc that hit the floor!

Another thing to think about is interior wall finish. I've got mine rocked on 3 walls and then knotty pine t/g on the front wall. Doing hte pine was nice to break up the plainess of 4 white sheetrock walls. I have a friend who did his in steel interior panels like what you'd use on the inside of a pole shed and its VERY nice. I think I'd go that route if building another. Makes hanging stuff on the walls a little bit fo a pain, but clean up is great and NEVER have to paint!

[hunter101]

have any of you heard of puting the floor heat tubing in the gravel rather then the concrete? An aquaintance of mine swears by it. He put down 2" pink foam, then the pex tubing covered by 8 inches of compacted sand. Placed 6" of concrete over that. he claims the heat is more even and costs even less to keep heated?

[muchowja]

You have the state building code and that is now it. Local agencies no longer have the ability to chandge the building code.

[overdalimit]

When talking concrete more is better! I pour a 14 inch beam around the perimeter and 14 inch X beam through the field. Then I put in 1/2 rebar 2 foot on center and finsh off this with 6 inches of 6500 psi concrete. Yes I know it is overkill but anything that I have build from concrete has always been the envy of my friends and neighbors and those who have taken my advise have not regretted it

[Pickelfarmer]

Wow thanks guys for all the replys!! Some very good info to get me started as well as some good things to think about BEFORE I build. My wife and I are looking into financing right now. Seems like its pretty darn hard to get money now a days.. We should know shortly weather or not we will be able to build this spring. Thanks again..