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Lab running with out sniffing

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I have a 1 year old pure bred choc. lab. I can play with her at home and drag the dummy around and she will find it and return it. However when i take her afield and tell her to get the bird she runs around like a bat out of he**. She listens when I tell her to come and sit,but she just runs wild. Today I was out and she was running through a fence line and ran square into a old peice of machinery. Luckily she did not get hurt, but what can I do to slow her down. I know shes only a year and has a lot of pup in her yet ,but is there anything to do.

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Sounds like a good problem to have. Your dog has alot of drive and that's something thats hard to teach..As long as she stays in gun range I wouldn't do a thing but get her out as much as possible. Don't try to take that hard charge out of her. The more you get her out the more she will start to use her nose. Like you said yourself she is young and you have to take that in stride and let them mature..Believe me as that dog matures you will be glad she has that drive . Good luck and have fun..uplander

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A check cord or a training collar are your best bets. I've got a 1 yr old lab as well. Be careful not to take the "fun" out of her first hunts though. But you also have to watch out and keep her safe.

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It sounds like the time the amish kid went to the amusement park. Way too much going on for him to comprehend at one time. So he is trying to see everything at once.

Get your dog out in new places with tall grass trees and water so when you come upon these in the field they are just someting that they have seen many times before and will be all business.

PS good luck trying to hunt and run a check cord at the same time. When I was at that stage I left my gun in the truck.

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I had to take my lab out on a dirt road and run him for 3-4 miles at about 15 miles an hour. I usually did that an hour or so before hunting time. That was the only way he'd keep the RPM's low enough for me to keep up with him. I suppose I could have spent a bunch of money on a trainer, but the runs seems to work pretty good.

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As long as your keeping him close and under control I don't see a problem.

Hes young and without knowing what you've done with live birds its going to take some time. Hunting is another step in training. Training with live birds in the off season is ideal, If this is new to him its going to take a few encounters for things to start to click in. Because his head is high means nothing and really thats what your looking for. Again there is no good substitute for the live bird training but for now when your out hunting get him where a bird flushed from and verbally get him excited over the scent. He should start working it. The earlier trailing sessions you did with the dummy are good. This would be a good time to throw the dummy. Its that association from whats familiar to something new you capitalize on. Just don't over do it to where he waiting for you to throw the dummy instead of out hunting for it.

Not knowing what you've done so far. I don't like his first retrieves with a fresh dead bird. There is way too much of "new" there. Biggest concern there is a dog that picks feathers, or thinks its a meal.

I'd rather his first introduction to feathers be again associated with something he used to retrieving. Attach a wing to his dummy. You've killed multiple birds with one stone here. Scent, feathers, dummy, retrieve.

Then move on to a whole bird thats been chilled or frozen.

Back to the rambunctious dog. Make him use all that energy at your pace, which is one that allows the dog to work the cover. You'll end up with a dog that learns to quarter.

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Going off what rattlereel said.....how much time has he seen in the field before she started hunting?

Has she ever been on live birds? Dummy scent is no replacement for that. If she has not been on live birds it may take a while for her to actually figure out what is going on....depending on how much you get out now and how many birds you get her on.

Either way you will need to watch out for her as one time into a barbed wire fence could be very dangerous.

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
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