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HugoBox

WA Wabull

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Picked one up from Aaron (great service as usual) and used it a bit this weekend but ripping it like a Reef Hawg didn't seem to be the ticket. I dig the looks and the weight as I think I could work it deep if need be, I just never quite got the cadence down. What have the rest of you found to be an effective way to work it?

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Hugo,

Haven't used a WA yet. But the regular Wabull and other similar baits aren't ones where a hard jerk like a Reef Hawg will give the desired action. You can work it a number of different ways. But I would try a more subtle approach. More twitches than hard pulls or rips. I like to work baits like that with softer taps and twitches, varying how hard and how often within the same retrieve. A hard pull occasionally to get the bait to jump a bit and get a reaction strike can sometimes work too. More on working the bait...sometimes letting the crank of the reel do most of the work can be effective as well. Hard to describe what I mean by that, but hopefully you know what I mean or someone else can explain it better.

Definitely try to change it up and try different things. But go more subtle with your approach than it sounds like you've tried so far.

Thanks,

Aaron

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I did the looks and the weight as I think I could work it deep if need be, I just never quite got the cadence down.

Wow, that is a big word for you. I'm proud wink

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Brotherly love at it's finest.......

I was out with Muskie Mojo last year and he was working the Wabull with a slow motion, almost getting a slow side to side swing along the lines a Hellhound.

Think of it like a Weagle only sumberged, and let it swing WTD style and move thru the water.

You'll like the bait, little practice and you got it, one of Mojo's buddies out in Utah loves the Baby Wabull for the tigers!

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Originally Posted By: HugoBox
I did the looks and the weight as I think I could work it deep if need be, I just never quite got the cadence down.

Wow, that is a big word for you. I'm proud wink

I'm impressed you could read a word that big. If I let you use my Curado maybe I can get you to stop fishing for bait. You'll be a muskie snob like me someday!! smile

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I fish my Wabull's just like a Weegle, in a submerged walk the dog presentation. I like mine a lot and have moved a few fish with it this year, caught one tiger with it a few weeks ago. As someone else posted earlier, fish it like a Hellhound or any other glide bait. But the thing that makes a Wabull different is that it seems more erratic than a typical glide bait. It does a "belly roll" often and jumps up and down rather than a clean side to side only presentation. I have just one Wabull, in a walleye pattern and the belly roll really give this bait a dying or struggling fish look. I see it as offering a nice changeup from your typical glide baits. As with any bait, you need to use it to first figure our how it acts w/twitches & retrieves but also using it will give you more confidence.

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These guys pretty much covered it. Short, quick taps really bring the Wabull to life. A little practice with it, and you will be able to make go in a given direction on command.

The erratic action and belly roll are definitely a huge trigger as well. Definitely not a "Stevie Wonder" glider.

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An update to my previous post on this Wabull topic. As I said before, I have just one Wabull, the big one. Out fishing today with my Bro in Law, he has the small Wabull. I really noticed a difference in the action from the big to the small baits. They do the same thing, but I found working the small Wabull much more difficult than my big one. I typically cast out with my big Wabull, count it down to the desired depth and WTD, it always runs below the surface. But the small one, I fished it the same as the big one but seemed to have it run up to the surface. Do you guys have this same experience? The action is still great but I found that I needed to work it a bit different (less aggressive) than the big Wabull.

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The Baby Wabull definitely has to be worked less aggressive than the regular size.

I really like short quick taps with LONG pauses with the Baby

make sure to mix it up too...tap, tap...pause...tap...pause...tap, tap, tap...pause...etc

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Luke,

How are the Wild Action baits selling compared to the regular baits? When do you decide to put on a WA and when do you decide to put on a regular? Does it matter? Just wondering.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
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