Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
mthunter

Roof tearoff questions

Recommended Posts

Going to reroof the house and was wondering if anyone had suggestions on what the best tools are to use for doing the tearoff. Also what is the best way to get teh Ice & Water shield off the sheathing. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Potato fork works the best(if they are broken in). I&W should stay on.

My best recommendation............leave it to the pro's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How many square or how big of a job is it?

You may save money but I'll guarantee you half way through the tear off process you'll wish you hired it out!

I hope you have somebody that knows what they are doing.

I'll let the pro's explain the ramifications and mistakes that can be made by the Do It Yourself-ers!

Good Luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like Roofer said, Potato fork and leave the ice & water on. Use a flat pry bar to remove all the nails. I've used the shovel too but after years of jolts from hitting nails, it takes a toll on the joints.

Remove the cap and work your way down taking a 10' swath all the way to the eve. As you go don't remove individual shingles, let them stay together as they roll over in a mass. Don't pick at it, go after it like an animal. That rolled over mass of shingles will actually help pull up shingles and gives a nice footing on steeper roofs.

Lay down a tarp under the eve for everything to drop on. Protect windows, electric and water meters with sheets of plywood. Ladders will deflect debris into the house so don't send off shingles where theres a ladder.

Depending on the hight and pitch you might be using a tether or roof jacks or both. If you slip it'll most likely be from stepping on a rope or compressor hose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How many square or how big of a job is it?

You may save money but I'll guarantee you half way through the tear off process you'll wish you hired it out!

I hope you have somebody that knows what they are doing.

I'll let the pro's explain the ramifications and mistakes that can be made by the Do It Yourself-ers!

Good Luck!

It's nothing impossible, anyone can do it. Just ask the DIY'ers. smile

The possibilities for problems are endless. I wouldn't know where to start. I've been watching some sorry sap the last couple weeks trying to reroof his own house. It is a simple split level house, but, I'm sorry, he has no idea how to work. He is not done yet. He has some of tore, some not, some shingled, and it has rained on it a few times already. The guy was trying to remove shingles while standing on a step ladder. It looked ridiculous. Of course, I would probably look kinda funny trying to do whatever he does for a living. smile

On the other hand, I have seen a few homeowners that have done a decent job. The biggest problems is they buy cheap materials alot of times and have no idea about flashings. I have seen plenty of so-called roofers that were just as bad though. I can normally pick it out by looking from the street, who did the job.

Good Luck to you anyhow. Hopefully it isn't a wet fall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Surface good tips. Just not what we do. I usually take 2-3 shingles at a time depending on how they were laid. Put them in piles and bring to the dumpster after tearing a whole roof. When we do most jobs, we don't drop a shingle to the ground. Whether it's a new shingle or old, none of them even touch the ground. After it's cleaned, we pull the nails and roll up the felt. Now the deck is nice and clean and everything is picked up.

Surface Tension's tips are also a good way, just kind of a mess, IMO. Although it is probably the best way if it is steep and dealing with multiple layers. It also can be quicker to getting to the shingling part, but then you still have to clean up the ground. On average, you can figure 1 square per hour per man off and on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They do make a shingle remover that works a little better then the potato fork. I use when I remove shingles I just can remember the name. It pulls the nails as you go but its not the shovle like talk above. You can tear off just as fast as the fork and pull the nails at the same time and save time.

Surface good tips. Just not what we do. I usually take 2-3 shingles at a time depending on how they were laid. Put them in piles and bring to the dumpster after tearing a whole roof. When we do most jobs, we don't drop a shingle to the ground. Whether it's a new shingle or old, none of them even touch the ground. After it's cleaned, we pull the nails and roll up the felt. Now the deck is nice and clean and everything is picked up.

Surface Tension's tips are also a good way, just kind of a mess, IMO. Although it is probably the best way if it is steep and dealing with multiple layers. It also can be quicker to getting to the shingling part, but then you still have to clean up the ground. On average, you can figure 1 square per hour per man off and on.

I pertty much do it the same as Roofer!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the input guys, much appreciated.

Roof is approx 27 sq. We have all shingled houses before, just not done a reroof. Just bought the bulk of the materials today to beat the price increase next week, GAF Timberline shingles so the material shouldn't be an issue.

Potato fork works the best(if they are broken in). I&W should stay on.

My best recommendation............leave it to the pro's.

When you say "I&W should stay on" are you saying that you don't have to put new on? If your putting new I&W on wouldn't you want it directly on the sheathing and not on old I&W?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This depends on what your inspector wants. To be honest, if it was my house and I could legally do what I want, I would just put I&W on the north facing roofs. You just have to make sure that your I&W seals to the drip edge. Sometimes you can just leave the I&W and re-shingle it. If it's an insurance claim, you put another layer on, unless they pay to remove sheathing and start over.

Other times you can just put new HIGH GRADE tarpaper over it. Certainteed allows it, but not sure about what your inspector wants to see.

With GAF's, I would make sure the underlayment is as water tight as possible. GAF's Shinglemate tarpaper is some of the best I have seen. Just as good as Roofer's Select.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • I did, but didn't find anything. Not sure I am doing a proper keyword search however. I believe it is called a termination cap. 
    • So, what is your training that makes you more of an expert than the Cardiac Rehab center of the Mayo Clinic?   You got the 6 week certificate in sales from the Chiropractic Institute?   Seriously, do you have a degree in a health field?  Have you even had any serious scientific training in any field?  Last I recall, didn't you work selling gadgets to Chiropractors or something?  I know you are a big fan of the subluxations and spinal adjustments to cure cancer and diabetes and prevent autism as touted by straight chiropractors.   
    • Here's some footage from the last couple weeks in central and northern WI. Gotta work at it to find the big ones, but managed to find some nice ones lately!  
    • Yup. Like a shopping cart.  
    • Well, being you are not engaging your hamstrings on that treadmill, and you're TRAINING on it!!, you can pretty much guarantee your feet sliding out from underneath you, slipping on the ice next time you encounter it.  Thank you treadmill, best piece of equipment in the gym, for an orthopedic surgeon.   Let me guess, you like to walk slow on it, so its good for you.....?  
    • Thanks RD!  Good info. That's an interesting technique with the Chatterbait.  I will try it.  If you don't mind -- what kind of trailer do you like with the Chatterbait for that technique?  There will be 3 of us fishing so it will a little tight.  Probably will only bring 3 rods...  I am thinking a Jig rod, T-rig rod (plan to try a Nekko rig with this as well)  and one moving bait rod (Spinnerbait, Chatterbait, Buzzbait, Frog, Cranks, etc.)  The great thing about Ottertail county (like others in Mn), there are a thousand lakes... we will hit 2 or 3 a day.  If we have good conditions (low pressure/moderate wind) we will probably try Musky on Battle Lake.
    • Mahi are hard to catch in Minnesota.  Specialized equipment is required. 
    • Any recent reports?
    • Down this way I have been getting most my fish around weed edges and weed clumps. Trigs for good edges and chatterbaits worked on bottom or over the weeds, kinda how I would fish a jig. Water around here is pretty murky right now. Docks have been good on those lakes with dirty water and not so many weeds.
  • Our Sponsors