Garage size and ROI

[BoxMN]

Originally Posted By: BoxMN

if your lot allows, and do the 30 wide, but make it 26 or 28 deep

Ya, at minimum go 26' deep. Mine is 30+ deep and I would not trade it for the world. Long is one thing, but deep is the key.

Also, at least with your main garage door, go 18' wide. It is so much nicer for pulling two cars in and out. If your ceiling allows, go with 8' high doors also and put windows in the garage doors if they face anyway shape or form to the south. It lets in so much light during the day.

Good luck!

Amen Shack!!!! Good advice.

[Surface Tension]

I'd imagine getting your car and truck off the street and into a garage is a plus where you live. Two vehicles will burn up a lot of floor space. If your going one level then I'd go as big as what your lot will allow and how much yard you want to sacrifice for garage space. Sounds like your width will block the alley and considering you in the cities you might want take as much of that alley out of the picture with garage. Setbacks from the alley and property line will determine some of that too. You might even want parking for a trailer or guests along side the garage.

You mentioned 30' wide, a 16' and 8' door might be worth thinking about as long as you have depth otherwise your wall space is gone.

I'm imaging your house to be 2 levels. While I don't think it necessary to match the siding you can match the roof line and other details of the house. A second floor on a garage is a selling point and one way to increase size sq. ft. More importantly to sq ft though your increasing wall space. Wall space and storage go together. Even if your dream of a shop on the second floor is never brought to reality you'll have a tremendous amount of storage space. You won't regret putting in a good stairway, yes it'll burn up space but it'll be well worth it you plan on using the second floor. Stairs on the back wall with your entrance door at the base of the stairs will be easy access to the garage and second floor from your home.

Attic trusses might fit into your layout but figure on loosing half the sq ft. I have a 24' x 32' with a second floor. I didn't want the look that attic trusses would give nor the floor space they offer. I didn't want a tall box either.

I opted for a split level with the second floor being 18' x 24'. 4/12 trusses on the front. Second floor side walls are 6'4" to keep the height down from the outside view. Roof is 2x10 rafters. Being vaulted with center height of over 10' its a dramatic yet cozy room. The front second floor wall is part of a truss system that is self supporting, there are no support posts on the first floor. My big plans for the second floor took backseat to my wife using it for her storage. Some day I'll get it back.

Anyway its an alternative to attic trusses.

BTW that rear wall is plumb, the length and camera angle makes it look racked.

[Chode2235]

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[sparcebag]

Have you checked with the city for set backs? Last place I did on the Eastside required 6 ft side set backs,If your taking that structer out you'll be required to meet current side clearances.

Is that existing building bout 22ft. ?

How wide is your lot 50ft ? 40ft?

[Phred52]

I'd go with the 3rd stall. I myself have a 28'X36' as we are limited to 1000 squ ft for detached garages, plus overall height can only be 13 1/2',that pretty much makes the attic unusable for anything but excess heat. Build to the max floorspace your local code will allow, given enough time you'll have more than enough stuff to fill it. Phred52

[Surface Tension]

Yep, time to check for set backs and sq ft allowable in your area.

[Chode2235]

I have checked with the city, and I am fine. You just can't go about a certain height, but there are exceptions for matching the house. Good thing I have a steep angled roof with a lot of height.

There are plenty of rules, but my plans are well within all of them.

[lovebigbluegills]

All fantastic ideas...some of which I wish I would've done with my garage. Two things I didn't see in here are-

-One row of blocks beneath your sidewalls-same width as your studs. I have 2x6 walls, and 6" blocks. You'll need to know exact locations of your doors (walk-in and overheads) before laying the blocks. I don't know anyway to keep a garage completely dry all the time, but this will keep your plates and studs from wicking up water.

-Put in a few more outlets than you think you'll need--they're cheap and don't take up any room.

-Same with lighting. My garage is 32 x 40, and I have 6 8' fluorescents (cold start). Another thing I did was put in a handful of regular old light bulb fixtures to use for just quick in and out stuff, instead of firing up a fluorescent.

-Definitely go with floor heat, or at least get the tubes in so it's an option later. Underneath my floor I put down 2" styrofoam, plastic, and a foot of sand on top of that. My tubes are in the concrete. I also have styrofoam vertically along the sides from the bottom styrofoam to the top of my blocks. I keep my thermostat (one controls all 5 zones) set at 65, and the coldest I've ever seen in the garage is 38. It's on off-peak electric and costs me about $1.50/day if I don't have the wood stove going.

-I have the pull-down ladder also, and keep a fair amount of stuff upstairs. One thing I don't really like about them is that you're limited to the size of things (totes) that will fit, but there's no way around it. I believe the max width that will fit is 21". Throw a couple screw-in bulbs upstairs too, if you decide against having a finished upstairs.

-I really wish I would've put in a floor drain or two also.

[Charley]

Bigger is better. I wish I had a 3 car stall. Dumb @3$#*^