more prop questions

[snakes]

I have a Suz DF 140. Leaving for a Canada trip so a bought a spare prop. It is a Solas 19 pitch 4 blade alum. The concern is, The castle nut tightens past the key hole. The only way to bet the cotter key in is to back off teh nut to less than finger tight. I ran that way on a test run and it seemed okay. However the manual recomends 50 ft pounds on the nut. What am I risking by running it with the nut loose? Extra washers are tough to find on short notice too.

thx

[Jim Almquist]

Go to a GOOD hardware store and bring the castle nut with and they will have the correct washers but if you just don't have time be careful and only use if in a pinch. You might risk stripping the splines if you were to hit another rock or bottom.

[marine_man]

Jim is right on here... I'd try and find washers to shim it or a thicker thrust washer on the back side of the prop to get your alignment back.

marine_man

[Valv]

Check the thickness of your thrust washer, if the distance from front of prop to lower unit housing is too small you risk to damage the unit. I would try to find a thicker thrust washer first.

The thrust washer is the large thick unit that goes between propshaft and propeller, usually has a tapered hole to fit snug on shaft, you can get different thickness.

On the other side you cannot have too much distance between prop and lower unit (if you see through the "gap", it's too much), consequently you have to shim the castle nut with washers.

[snakes]

thanks for the replies guys. I went to two hardware stores for washers to put under the castle nut. I had the original with. I went to a nearby boat dealer too. no luck. I could have bought ss washers of the right diameter but would have had to drill them to fit over the shaft. There does not seem to be a washer between the lower unit and the prop. I guess that is where a thrust washer could go. that side of the props have kind of pressed in bushing of sorts with a large diameter flat area. I guess I'll run my slightly knicked up 21 pitch and use the new one as a spare. then later I'll try another suzy prop. Thanks again for all the help!! i have been around boats a fair amount and there always seems to be something tricky.

[snakes]

Upon further inspection, the prop i just took off and the new one that I ran for a short time have rubbed against the very rear inner edge of the ring that is on the back of the lower unit. it is bolt on housing piece. on each prop there is wear about one inch of the circumfrence of the very front of the prop. so the outer portion of the prop rubbed the inner area of the lower unit. this was sad to see as i got the motor new and only dealers have had the prop off. So from what I gather a thrust washer could prevent this. now being that I am super picky, i wonder if there is an alignment or minor bearing issue.

[Valv]

That's exactly what I was afraid it could happen. If the thrust washer is not present propeller will move forward and rub against the edge of housing wearing it off.

You need to correct this, there's no alignment but the thrust washer will take care of proper load balance and distance. It's hard to explain for me but very simple to realize if it can be seen. I''ll take some pics to show.

Also check your older prop, it could be the thrust washer is stuck inside the prop hub....it's very easy to see, it's brass usually but I've seen stainless steel also.

[marine_man]

Yep - you absolutely need to have a thrust washer on the other side of the prop!

marine_man

[snakes]

I bought some ss washers at the hardware store. Then drilled them out. The extra thickness of the english washer vs. the metric one allowed the nut to snug up to the new prop and the key fit. I went on Brownspointmarine's web site and looked at the exploded view of my 2005 DF 140 lower unit assembly. It does not look like I am missing parts. So after this trip, I'll do more research and make sure every thing is okay. The fact that just one area on the outer ( side?) of the prop hub is worn makes me question wheter or not my prop shaft is bent slightly. Even if it wears a bit more, it is in an area that won't cause too much harm. It is not the gear case. I'll try to get a dial indicator and clamp it to the skeg to find out. I leave in less than 24 hours. So I am excited and hope the boat comes back in the same shape it is in now. Other than the normal dirt and lots of fish slime! I really appreciate the help you! You guys taking the time to offer your knowledge is awesome.

One more thing, I added a transom saver to replace a thing I think guys call a wedge. its a rubber cylinder that fits over the trim hydrualic cylinder for trailering. From what I have read on this site, it was the thing to do.

thx

[boatfixer]

If you can't get a dial indicator, hold the end of a pencil to the end of the prop shaft (put the tip in the indentation on the end of the shaft, in-line not at 90 degrees) and spin the prop by hand. If there is a wobble, you should see it.

Good idea on the transom saver.

[Outfitter17]

Snakes,

I sounds to me like you are missing the SS washer that goes between the lower unit and the prop, that may be why you have extra space on the back of the prop?

You need to get the washer that goes between the prop and lower unit, this washers also catches the fishing line you may run over and keeps it out of your seals, plus it should stop the rubbing of the prop on the inside of the lower unit.

[snakes]

The pencil trick did not reveal a wobble. I was able to go on a trip with confidence that it was okay. I think that maybe the prop castings are not perfectly round and that may be why one area does not clear as well as the rest. I still may try a dial indicator just for fun. My next work on the DF 140 will be a water pump reaplacement. Its 3 years old. I need a skeg now too. So that makes a good excuse to do it.

Thanks again!

[boatfixer]

Good to hear you don't have problems. You're probably right about the casting part.