Boat Rivets - please help!!

[Surface Tension]

Just get a long closed end pop rivet or water proof rivet. The longer rivet won't hurt a thing because the head of the mandrel won't snap till it meets the material its securing.

Consider it like a bolt. You only need a 2" bolt to do the job neatly but you used a 3" bolt instead. In the case of the longer rivet, its under the floor so whose going to know?

After you get the rivet and install it you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

If you want, use a spot of silicon in the hole before you pop the rivet in.

[eurolarva]

If you choose to buy those rivets from the place sparcebag recommended I will go in half on the purchase. I need 12 but I am gussing that you have a min you must buy. If you do post here and I will work out payment with you. That wall you are hitting is what I believe is called a gunnel. It is like an upsided down u with mounting flanges on it. It is what your floor is attached to on the boat.

[Basseyes]

Do what surface tension said.

Hallbergs in Wyoming, MN sells them and they term them leak proof pop rivets either way they'll know what your talking about.

I wouldn't use a bolt or an epoxy. Go with the rivet and a bit of silicone. Acetoxy if you can find it or an aluminum window silicone II from GE is best but regular window silicone will work.

[still floats guy]

Leak proof rivets and the gun are definitely the way to go.

However, I always have a couple tubes of JB Weld on hand. I have patched small holes in aluminum as well as a transom seam that was leaking on a Canada fishing trip. Temporary fixes of course but it kept me fishing instead of bailing water.

[boe757]

If you decide to use aircraft (cherry-max) the correct size would be a 6-9 from the 1/2 inch measurement you posted. the correct length is important. 6-32 diameter by 9-16 length. I have not repaired any boats, only aircraft, but please understand if the length is not correct these rivets will be loose. also I am using the measurement for a protruding head, if the rivet is countersunk the length will be different.

[overdalimit]

Most likely they just missed bucking that one. I have a Lund tyee and I don't give her any favor. after 7 years she is a tight as a drum. I would put in the water tight rivet it will be fast and easy and if it ever leaks you can just drill it out and put in another one.

[Hoffer]

Well.....heres the scoop!!

I called around to a few more places and one of them was one of the marine stores in Rogers. I got ahold of the mechanic in the service department - and he said to come on in and actually just gave me a half dozen closed end 3/16 inch rivets. So, I picked up a rivet tool at fleet and as Surface tension said earlier - was very suprised to see what all the fuss was about!! It went very smooth. I will say that I had to hork on the rivet tool a few times for it to actually take and have the pop rivet snap off - but it seems as tight as a drum! I put a little silicone sealant in the hole first and around the rivet and it all looks very good. I tried to examine the other rivets and most of them seemed tight except for one...it was a little loose - so I had that putty stiuff that someone else mentioned and just put some of that over the slightly loose rivet and hope that holds tight. The true test will be when I put it in the water in a few days - and see if the leak is just from that one rivet. I am hoping so. So...thanks for all the great advice - I learned alot - and you guys saved me having to take off my floor boards to try and fix this - so many thanks!

[Surface Tension]

Hoffer, its all over in a snap.

Having to squeeze the rivet gun a few times means your rivet was plenty long. That loose rivet, its not doing anything. Center punch it and drill it out with a 3/16th bit.

Don't go any deeper then the head.