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Tiller pulls


Rivernut

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I posted this topic last year, and received many good suggestions. Have tried everything and it still pulled tiller handle to the left, or away from me. My dilema now is that I have a medical condition ( neck) that will not allow me to use this way. Try a new motor on the boat, or buy a boat w/console. What does everyone think. Thanks, Mike.

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I'm guessing you've already tried adjusting the trim-tab on the skeg of the engine? Mine pulled like that right out of the box and was borderline dangerous to drive until I made the adjustment to the tab. Now it runs straight and not nearly as much effort to handle.

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River, that is part of the battle with tillers. Even console boats will want to go left if you let go of the wheel long enough. The reason I believe is the rotation of the prop will turn the motor that direction. That is why they tell you to wear your lanyard, when and if you fall out of the boat, it will go into the "circle of death."

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He mentioned it was going to the right and mine did the same thing. I actually had sore legs the next day after running my boat (90HP engine), not realizing how much I was using my legs to hold/pull onto the handle. That's how bad it was until the tab was adjusted! It was all I could do to not let go of the thing and launch me into the next county. lol. The first few times out I really didn't notice it because I was doing break-in and not really getting much speed on it, but after that was over and I started doing speed runs I knew something had to be adjusted or it wouldn't be drivable.

You're correct that it's the nature of physics and how the prop rotation effects the boat's direction, but if it's bad even after the tab has been tweaked then there must be something else wrong. The tab should just about take care of most of it.

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On my 15hp it sat to low and pulled hard when I first got it.

after I put a 1" block on top of the transom it fixed the problem. I didn't think 1" could make that much difference but it did.

so may want to also check to see if it is set at the correct height.

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LMITOUT, that's what I meant, right, not left. Sorry about the confusion. My little boat has a 15 Mariner on it, and if I let go, it will whip the boat around quick, so I never let go. Obviously, the ammount of force is a lot less with my motor than some of the big dogs.

If I wanted to troll in circles, I could do it all day long though.

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Check the height of your motor. The "fin" on your lower unit should be at the same level as the bottom of the boat.

If it's sitting too low, it will pull like a bugger.

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try removing the trim tab or fin and if you can tilt or trim it a little this will help. If you trim to far you will lose speed. I had to do this with my 25hp evinrude. the way the fin was made on the 25hp was to make the boat circle if theres a dead stick situation. What motor do you have? RR

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 Originally Posted By: river runt
the way the fin was made on the 25hp was to make the boat circle if theres a dead stick situation.

Hm... are you sure about that?

Rivernut - did you get your skeg replaced? If you're still running without that it's not helping your situation any...

marine_man

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Its in the shop getting it done right now. But it has done this since new. Its a 25 Merc. longshaft. The skeg broke this last fall. dtro, checked that previously and its dead on. Thanks for the ideas.

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So, to summarize:

1) You have tried adjusting the trim tab to both sides with no result

2) It has done it since new

3) The motor is centered on the boat

4) The cavitation plate is at the same level as the bottom of the boat

And you still have problems, right?

I think you might be stuck with this problem...

marine_man

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So the bottom of the lower unit is supposed to be close to the bottom of the boat? I have a merc. 125 2 stroke on my sportfish, and the lower unit is WAY below the bottom of the boat. Or is this just for tillers? Even my 9.9 four stroke sits way below the boat. Maybe I am miss understanding..

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With the 9.9 it's not the end of the world - it's a kicker motor that you run from time to time on it, not the primary motor.

But yes, the cavitation plate is the spot you would mount a hydrofoil if you decided to. Unless your cavitation plate is 5" below the bottom of the boat I'd be surprised if you had a problem - there are two primary length lower units - 20" and 25" - and you need to have the right transom to run the right shaft lenght motor in an ideal situation.

marine_man

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If you like running a tiller but dont like the tiller torque, you might want to look into the Titan no feed back tiller assist.

I got one installed on my boat last fall and it makes long runs in rougher water a breeze.

No torque at all, at any trim position.

I just relax my hand on the tiller and make adjustments when needed.

One of the best things Ive bought for my tiller boat.

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What Swanlakebud said has a lot to do with it. You want to trim the motor for the speeds you usually run. Then adjust the tab to make it run straight without pulling. I have a 17ft with a 55 on it. If I trim it all the way down it pulls bad. As I trim it up the pull eases up and if I trim it up too far it actually pushes back against me. Finding the trim and adjustment of the tab is the key, at least in my case.

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I cheked it out yesterday. My cav. plate is perfectly flush. The kicker on the other hand IS lower, but like you said is not important. I got the boat in the fall, first boat for me. I am excited to "play" with it this summer and figure out this whole trim thing. I know with the 2 stroke 125 all the way down and four people and 25 gal of gas I can get around 42mph. It is going to be a great summer!! See ya all on the lake!!

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2-3 good sized transducers close together on the same side of the boat can also cause "drag" This was the case with my 2025 and my lowrance ducers, it wasn't a lot of drag but enough to notice on a 125 motor. I simply changed the ducers a bit and the drag was gone. Good Luck

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