shower wall tile install

[hoggsback]

I had to tear out my old tile in a corner shower due to a bad install by prior home owner. I removed the shower walls but left the base installed. I installed backer board and was preparing to install the tiles when I ran into a problem.

I was doing a dry run of a few tiles in the corner when I noticed the problem. At the shower base, in the corner, the base has a curve to it. I am not able to put the tiles in the corner and butt them together because of this curve. The base can't be moved due to the drain. The base was about a 1/4 inch from all the studs so I shimmed it and screwed the base to the studs through the shims. If I could have moved the base to the studs without the shims, I don't think this curved corner would be a problem but this was not an option. The tiles overhang the top of this lip in the base so that is why the curve is troublesome.

I don't know how to install the tiles now because of the curve int he base. Any tile pros that have a solution for me? My bathroom work is now stalled.

[MNcanepole]

The cement board has to be over that 1& 1/2 inch lip on your shower base. Then you should be able to tile it. I'm not a tile person, I'm a plumber. Something doesn't quite look right on that shower base installation either. I've been retired for 2 years, but I know the cement board has to go over the lip. Good Luck

[hoggsback]

If that is the case, then the base install is the problem. Like I said, if I was able to move the base back toward the studs, the cement board would hang over the lip. Since I can't move the base due to the drain in the slab, I had to shim it and attach it.

What ever past owner installed this didn't even have the base attached to the studs. They hammered nails above the edge of the lip and then knocked them down over the lip to hold the base. I saw that and removed the nails and screwed the base to the studs, through the lip. There wasn't even cement board behind the old tile and that is why I am doing all of this......to repair it.

Any ideas on how to move the base back the 1/4 inch to mate with the studs w/o shims? Is there some way to get some play in the drain to allow the base to move? I see there is a rubber seal, for lack of a better term, around the drain pipe, under the drain screen. Can this be changed out or something done to move the base?

[huntingmaxima]

What if you were to just put another layer of cement board over the existing board. Wouldnt that bring you out enough to solve the problem?

[hoggsback]

Could I also take the existing board down and shim out the studs to move them toward the base? I could bring the studs to the base instead of the other way around.

The only problem I see is the wall would jut out fine where the shower is. What happens to the wall where the shower and tile end? I still have drywall there on both sides of shower. I would think this would look not right.

thanks you guys for your suggestions.

[Drew]

Pull the cement board off and install 1/2 or greater treated plywood. Remember to use ACQ nails or screws to fasten the plywood. That should get you past the lip of the shower pan. Staple 30 lb felt over the plywood lapping you seams a good 12". Then install your cement board, remember to tape your seams of the cement board with fiberglass drywall tape and thin set. When the thin set drys knock down the high spots with a rubbing stone. Your now ready for tile.

[18 inch Crappie]

 Originally Posted By: Drew

Pull the cement board off and install 1/2 or greater treated plywood. Remember to use ACQ nails or screws to fasten the plywood. That should get you past the lip of the shower pan. Staple 30 lb felt over the plywood lapping you seams a good 12". Then install your cement board, remember to tape your seams of the cement board with fiberglass drywall tape and thin set. When the thin set drys knock down the high spots with a rubbing stone. Your now ready for tile.

What Drew said, I would do it right and have a new bottom installed and put it tight up to the studs, If you try to jerry rig it you only have problems down the road and they are not fun with water leaking into the floor.

[hoggsback]

Drew-

If I did this, any idea what I would do with the extra wall thickness outside the shower walls? I would be building up the walls inside the shower, but the rest of the walls on both sides of the shower would be at the original thickness.

In the last photo, you can't see it, but on the right side of the shower is the toilet and then a vanity. The left side of the shower I think would be OK since there is a door. The door trim I think would hide the difference. Is there some kind of trim or accent tile that would hide this difference?

Thanks.

[Surface Tension]

The base is from a Neo Angle Shower Set. Your trying to convert that base to a tile instead of the surround that was part of the set. The base corner that sits outside had a radius surround that covered it.

Since you can't move the base, bring the wall out as said.

How you go about making the termination from furred out wall to the rest of the wall depends on what your using for the stall.

What is see is you'll end the furred wall at the end of the base.

From there your stall will begin. Question is, what are you using for the stall that wraps around the of the base? Door in the middle of coarse. You have two short walls on each side. Are you using the old panels there? If so do that and put a J bead on the cement board.

[sparcebag]

It can be done.but it would take long explainations and if you havent done much carpentry,well then I'd suggest get rid of that pan get a custom pan made,frame 4 sides with a door opening,get door first! so pan can be made to accept it,you'll also have to put sills in to fasten new pan to and tiles to match.

The way your going now is lots of tweaking work mostly dealing with the finish after walls are fured out the lip will be hard to deal with.Start form scratch with a new pan that fits walls & drain.

[Drew]

Hoggsback - make yourself a trim piece out of whatever kind of wood you would like to see. Cut a dato in the backside to just cover the edge of the tile. Besure to use a GOOD quality finishing product (marine varnish) and seal ALL sides. Nail it up on the wall and place a fine bead of clear silicone along the edge of the tile where it meets the wood trim piece.

[sparcebag]

What about the lip on top where water will get in 3/4 fir piece 1/2 board,tile he"ll have a 1 & 1/2 inch lip on top that will hold H2O.The sides can yes be trimed the top could get bullnosed,But I'd still start anew.

[hoggsback]

The base is a neo-angle style with glass walls in a metal frame. I took the two walls and door off the base when I removed the old tile. The shower originally had 4 1/2" tiles on the wall with greenboard under it. The bottom row of tiles started to lift and there was water leaking from somewhere into the wall on the right side.

I didn't know of the base/lip issue when I was removing the greenboard or I would have looked into how they got the drywall to hang over the lip in the base. What is twisting my brain is how did they get the old tile job to work with the base. I replaced the 1/2" greenboard with 1/2" hardiboard. There is no height difference there.

I planned to put up new 12" tiles and extend them beyond the shower walls on either side like the old tile job was. Then reuse the original shower walls and door that are still in good condition.

[sparcebag]

Seein ya got the whole shower,I'd fur the walls out starting with a 1x3 along the top,leave a 5/8s gap for 1/2" board to go under drywall thats existing, to have more support on 1x3,then I'd use another 1x3 along the base,leave it up 1&1/2" the rest down behind pan,then fill in studs W/1x2.assuming the gap between shower pad and old framing is 3/4s" whatever the gap use right thickness material.screw the pan to the studs install the board.The problem wont be the sides it will be the top lip.you could use cove tiles,or cut thin fills and a splash tile on the wall. you may consider a smaller tile the 12" are less forgiving if the wall has any soft spots.and you'll have less cutting,unless you want a 12" splash and 12" reveal beyond shower wall.

[hoggsback]

Building the wall out will not work, at least not without added problems. I have a door to the left of the shower that I will have to deal with, trim won't match up around door, etc.

I have figured out the drain was not installed in the right spot during rough in. I need to either move the drain about 1/2 inch or I'm going to build a mortar base.

Can the 2" pipe in the concrete floor be moved that small of a distance with an adapter of some type? Otherwise, I think I would have to dig down into the slab to the trap and make my adjustments down there.

Advice?

[sparcebag]

Ya the trim wont match,but the shower and stall will work fine,If you really want to cut a remove concrete you can.Remember to make the hole big enough to have working room and extend it towards the corner where the drain will make its new home.LOTS a work and a big mess,dont break the concrete cut it first so not to damage the concrete that will stay.

[hoggsback]

Is going that route the only way to move the drain that short of distance? No weird pvc angles or rubber boots that will do the trick on top?

[King Canada]

Have you You taken off the base to see what you are dealing with. It is likely a void was left in the concrete under the base to allow flexibility in the drain position.

[Surface Tension]

 Originally Posted By: King Canada

Have you You taken off the base to see what you are dealing with. It is likely a void was left in the concrete under the base to allow flexibility in the drain position.

Good point.

Also you can make a 6" platform and and set the base on it. That'll give you a whole slough of options.

[sparcebag]

 Originally Posted By: King Canada

Have you You taken off the base to see what you are dealing with. It is likely a void was left in the concrete under the base to allow flexibility in the drain position.

HEY King?????? Thats the best suggestion yet! I'll bet the void is there for access for the trap.Your giving me a refesher course!!

[hoggsback]

I guess i forgot to mention that. There is a void around the pipe but only a few inches around. That is why I wondered if there is something that will allow for a little movement in the pipe.....rubber boot or something with give.

[sparcebag]

Whats the demension of the void? I'd guess surface's build up would work easiest,but if ya can dig out the void and cut beyond the trap no build up would be required a 10'x10' void can be done even smaller just time & patience.

[18 inch Crappie]

Just do a mud base, I have done 4 o5 of them in my houses and works out great and does not take that long.