? for Opti owners

[JIGGIN']

How essential is it to fog the cylinders for winterization if I ran quickleen and stabilizer through the fuel filter? Don't I need to be careful as to which oil I use as well? The manufacturer is a bit vague on what to do here. Anyone with advice on this for a 2006 150 Opti? Thanks

[JoeB]

Jigging

I have a 115/6cyl and have pulled the plugs, shot a couple squirts of 10/30 in each cylinder and then with the kill switch off, turned in over little and haven't had a problem. been doing this since 2002.

Joe

[JDM]

I have the 115 Opti. Last year, I just changed the lower unit lube and then ran the Merc fuel stabilizer through it and stored the boat with a clean, full tank of non-oxy. I did not fog the cylinders. I didn't know I needed to. It started right away in the spring and ran great all year.

[marine_man]

I would run some fuel stabailzer through the engine (don't just dump it in the gas tank and call it good, treat the gas in the tank and run the motor for a while to make sure it's all the way through the fuel system). The best way to do this is on the last trip of the season dump some fuel stablizer into the tank - by the time you're done with your fishing trip the gas in the motor is stabilized.

Then, stop at the gas station on your way home and top the tank off to prevent water in the gas due to condensation. Keep track of how many gallons you added and be sure to add the appropriate amount of treatment for that gas.

Drain the lower unit lube and refill it again until you have a good stream coming out the top hole.

Pull the sparkplugs and squirt some fogging fluid into each cylinder. Reinstall the sparkplugs, but leave the wires off and turn the motor over a couple of times to get the fogging fluid spread around in the cylinder. Put the wires back on when you're done.

Pull the battery connection and put it away for the winter.

marine_man

[Cheers]

You can pump oil out of your small jug under the hood and into the cylinders, this takes the place of fogging and is much easer than removing plugs as regular plug wrench wont fit on lower plugs ( you need to be triple jointed )

Remove motor hood

Loosen oil cap on small oil tank attached to motor ( under hood not the main tank )

Turn key on

Shift 3 or 4 times to forward and back to neutral

Hear oil pump ticking as it is putting oil in cylinders

When ticking stops refill oil reservoir ( must be no air in tank) and replace cap tightly

Start motor for 20 seconds - should smoke

Turn off, residue oil will protect engine all winter

This comes directly from the Merc dealer and confirmed by 2 mechanics

It works for me

[marine_man]

Very interesting.. thanks for the info!

marine_man

[JIGGIN']

I would assume that you need to have the flushing unit attached and running when all of this is taking place??? Just curious, sounds a lot easier than fogging the cylinders! Those plugs are a %#$@T^# to get to. Thanks

[marine_man]

You'll want water running through it when you run it for the 20 seconds mentioned above - during the cycling of the control lever the motor isn't running.. the key is on and that's it.

marine_man

[Gadgetman]

just curious, I was told that the above mentioned procedure puts the motor back into "break in mode" where it runs extra oil for the next 100 hours or something like that. Have you had an issues with engine smoking when you have done this? I know that some how there is a way to make it oil itself, but the more people I talk to about it the more answers I get, and the more confused I get.

[Cheers]

I have been doing it for 4 years and have had no problems. As far as I can see you have no other reasonable alternative. You cant fog the outboard through the air box and you cant remove the spark plugs, if you take it to the dealer he does the same thing as I mentioned, perhaps you could mix a cruise a day tank real rich and run it through. My way seems to be the recommended Merc procedure . So far so good no problems and no smoke all sumer

[Gadgetman]

called Mercury direct this a.m. and they strongly recommend against the above practice as it DOES put it back in to break in mode. Not trying to be a "richard cranium" but dont want anyone to have any unnecessary problems. Their only solution to winterizing opti motors is to pour the ounce of oil in each plug hole...what a pain. When I told her that dealers were suggesting the shifting forward and into reverse she wanted to know if the dealers where told it was an Opti....I am going to skip that idea

[Sutty]

I was also told from the dealer that installed my motor about it getting put back into break in mode. I doubt it would hurt your engine. It will however hurt your wallet with all the extra oil it is burning at 30 bucks a gallon of opti oil or 25 for the amzoil!

[JIGGIN']

SOOOO..... How does a person get to those plugs without tearing apart everything else in the way of them??? Number 6 plug is almost buried. 1, 3, and 5 are easy to get to. Any ideas? Do I still need to fog the cylinders in this case? I ran Treated fuel and did the key thing. still wondering if it is too late to fog the cylinders or not. How do I get to those plugs?

[nine-tiner]

When I picked up my boat this weekend with a 90hp Opti the dealer told me to add the stabilizer to the last tank of gas, drain, and refill the lower unit, and disconnect the battery. I asked again if that was it, he confirmed. Almost sounded to simple. I asked about fogging, and he said not to. In fact he told me I should never have to take the cowel off the motor.

[sparkyaber]

 Originally Posted By: JIGGIN'

SOOOO..... How does a person get to those plugs without tearing apart everything else in the way of them??? Number 6 plug is almost buried. 1, 3, and 5 are easy to get to. Any ideas? Do I still need to fog the cylinders in this case? I ran Treated fuel and did the key thing. still wondering if it is too late to fog the cylinders or not. How do I get to those plugs?

Remove the coil that is right on top of it. two or three bolts if I remember. Makes removing #6 a much easier, not easy, easier. A swivel and few extentions and it is a done deal. Just make sure you don't cross thread the plug going in.

[Black_Bay]

Slip a piece of rubber tubing on the top of the plug when you replace it. It allows you to reach in through that maze. It also makes it harder to cross thread since you can't really put much torque on the tubing. Once the plug is in tighten as instructed.