Need New Lawnmower !

[FishingIdiot]

Although the lawnmower I have (MTD) is pretty new 4-5 mos, it it not working well. I already had to replace some screws, it leaves sprigs un-mown grass all over, and it leaves clumps of mulch all over the lawn - even with a new blade replacement. The only thing I like about it is the Honda engine - starts nice.

I admit, sometimes the grass is slightly damp when I mow it, but I want a mower that can handle that and still spread the clippings.

I've read that the Toro 20057 does a fine job mulching (even wet grass) but I'm not quite sure of that Personal Pace set-up.

I just want a powerful well-built mower that will last - don't need no fancy gimmicks - and I'm willing to pay a good amount for it as long as I get my money's worth.

Anyone got any suggestions? Looked at an Exmark the other day - don't know if it's worth it - expensive! I've only got a 1/2 acre to mow, but it is thick grass.

[LwnmwnMan2]

What kind of mower are you looking for??

You say you have an MTD, but not what style.

You then ask about the Toro with the Personal Pace, which would be a 21" 'push' mower, but then you mention Exmark, which would either be a larger walkbehind mower, or a zero turn.

If you're open to any style, are you open to something that's used?? Or do you have to have new??

What price range are you looking to spend?? I realize that 1/2 acre isn't that big, but if it's thick grass, and you have other things in life to do besides cut grass, then you MAY want to invest a little more, maybe not.

Help me narrow it down.

Do you want a rider?? or something you walk behind?? or doesn't it matter??

What price range?? Less than $1000, $1000-$3000?? $5000??

more?? Can it be used?? Or new??

I've pretty much run just about every mower out there over the last 19 years. I've never been one to stick to a specific brand, what cuts the best and makes my life the easiest is what I'm after.

I know that if you're not afraid of something used, you can get real real good deals on used walk behinds (32", 36", 48") this time of year that people have traded in, usually with low hours, around $1,000-$1,500.

Biggest issue with the clumps of grass is you need to not mow when the grass is damp. This is the reason that I'm still home at 10 am. I'm SOOOO tired of the heavy dew each and every morning that I decided to start late.

Takes an hour to do a job that's normally 20 minutes to get rid of all the clumps from the dew, and I've got the big mowers.

Also, where are you located?? What area of the state?

[reddog]

Lawn mower man.

I need some advice also.

I recently purchased a ten acre acreage, that has a fair amount of buildings, a nice 1928 bungaloe style home, and lots of grass to mow. (and lots of trees)

New Farm

The mower I have, is a Cub Cadet, with a 54" cut, and I also bought the Craftsman 48" rider at the farm auction for the place I bought.

While these work, (about 3 1/2 for wife and I on both mowers)

I'm looking for something better/faster, that does a better job. There are many trees on the acreage, and almost all of the mature trees have quite a slope around them, which finds the current stable of mowers digging the deck into the ground upon entrance to go around.

Like the OP, I'll spend whatever it takes to buy a quality mower, but only want to do it once, with no regrets.

As you well know, everybodies mower is the best when its time to buy.

any suggestions.

I'm intrigued by the ZTR concept, but does any mower handle the sloped trees well?

[LwnmwnMan2]

Quote:

---

Lawn mower man.

I need some advice also.

I recently purchased a ten acre acreage, that has a fair amount of buildings, a nice 1928 bungaloe style home, and lots of grass to mow. (and lots of trees)

New Farm

The mower I have, is a Cub Cadet, with a 54" cut, and I also bought the Craftsman 48" rider at the farm auction for the place I bought.

While these work, (about 3 1/2 for wife and I on both mowers)

I'm looking for something better/faster, that does a better job. There are many trees on the acreage, and almost all of the mature trees have quite a slope around them, which finds the current stable of mowers digging the deck into the ground upon entrance to go around.

Like the OP, I'll spend whatever it takes to buy a quality mower, but only want to do it once, with no regrets.

As you well know, everybodies mower is the best when its time to buy.

any suggestions.

I'm intrigued by the ZTR concept, but does any mower handle the sloped trees well?

---

Where are you located??

Quick answer for the trees.... you're stuck.

The only thing really you can do, is raise the deck up on the mower until you're situated on the slope, then put the deck back down, and go around the tree.

I'll be back with more opinions for you. Nice place by the way....

[Powerstroke]

I will also be watching this one. I too have a half acre, but most of my lawn is fescue due to it being a previously shady yard. This equals very thick dense turf, but it clumps up and wind rows even during the drought(I irrigate).

Personally I would be satisfied with a nice walk-behind commercial, but for the same price I could have a rider that can tow a trailer, spreader, thatcher, aereator etc.

About the trees, if there aren't a terrible large amount you should consider doing tree rings of some sort to just avoid the situation all together. Otherwise like lwnman said there's no easy way to do it. Either you scalp the dirt or you damage the trunk of the tree with your deck or both. Neither will make it look very nice and neither is good for the plants.

[LwnmwnMan2]

Quote:

---

I will also be watching this one. I too have a half acre, but most of my lawn is fescue due to it being a previously shady yard. This equals very thick dense turf, but it clumps up and wind rows even during the drought(I irrigate).

Personally I would be satisfied with a nice walk-behind commercial, but for the same price I could have a rider that can tow a trailer, spreader, thatcher, aereator etc.

About the trees, if there aren't a terrible large amount you should consider doing tree rings of some sort to just avoid the situation all together.

Otherwise like lwnman said there's no easy way to do it. Either you scalp the dirt or you damage the trunk of the tree with your deck or both. Neither will make it look very nice and neither is good for the plants.

---

What Powerstroke said is the best option. Put some landscape block around them, scrape out the turf that is on the slant and put some mulch in, maybe some Hostas, other perennials....

Going back to the mower topic again.

For something that's 1/2 acre or so, I'd recommend a decent walk behind. New they're about $3,000 - $4,000. However, used, they're about $1,000-$2,000.

The best cuts are Exmarks, especially earlier 2000 year models. The UltraCut decks are better than the early Tritons. There were alot of guys that seemed to be having problems with those.

Snapper has a decent commercial walk-behind (36"), with a decent cut.

I'll be honest, I've never appreciated JD's cut, or Toro. I personally have a Ferris walkbehind that I use, and I like it, for the most part.

Pretty much any Zero Turn is going to do you well, however I'd shy away from the early early Ferris ones, (2004 and earlier).

Just about any mower is going to clump on you when it's wet out. Especially in the morning, with the heavy dew. When you get in your vehicle, and you have to keep running the windshield wipers until you get 20 miles down the road, and it's not raining, you're not going to be able to cut the grass either, without clumps.

What I do when it's wet is this. It works best if you have something that's side discharge. In fact, it's pretty much the only way it's going to work, except for our 15' Tri-Deck, it'll work this way if it's real warm out.

Mow the entire yard, then raise the mower deck up about 1/2".

Now mow in the direction that's about 90 degrees different.

Basically when you mow, try to mow forward and back, rather than running indy laps around the property. Then raise the deck up about 1/2" and mow. If you mowed say east / west the first time, then the second time mow north / south.

What will happen is, the mower will just chop up the clumps, rather than mow the yard. Now you don't have to bag, mulch, or rake.

Alot of mowers you can find deals on this time of year, whether new or used. Dealers aren't going to want to carry over this year's product, just to discount it some next year, and there's guys trying to dump equipment in order to buy a plow, snowmobile, 4 wheeler, or just decided they can't make the payment through the winter, they didn't make any money this summer.

There's deals to be found all the time on Craig's list. Either that, or if anyone's interested, there's a couple of large equipment auctions around New Prague and I think Zumbrota in mid-April. I've sold some equipment down there, and a decent ZTR will go for about $4,000. This is something with about 1000 hours on it, which is nothing.

I know the Kubota dealer I run through has 4-5 different walkbehinds they're looking to move, I'm sure a guy could swing a real good deal on those.

Also, one last thing, about Powerstroke's need for something that will pull a trailer.... you can always find a beater rider and pull the deck off, turn it into a dedicated puller. Usually something for about $75-100. People figure they're not worth anything if the deck is no good.

[Powerstroke]

What a wealth of information. I'll be emailing you about some other questions but this is a great start.

Thanks for the great tip about a cheap puller. I guess I never thought of ripping the deck off. Kinda the idea of whats a mower without a deck, but something for dragging stuff aorund the yard is perfect. I'll keep an eye out on those.

[FishingIdiot]

Thanks for your reply.

I'm pretty much thinking to stick with a quality 21" walk behind, which is what the Exmark was that I looked at (Metro 21). I have heard that these are good reliable machines that many lawn care guys use.

Of the 21" rotaries that are $1000 or less which are the best "cluck for the buck"? I appreciate your perspective and experience because the average person pretty much has to buy to find out how one cuts.

My grass seems to be fairly dry when I start to mow, but down lower in the grass, due to being dense, it's still wet. So, it clumps.

I have been mowing 2 consecutive times the last 5-6 weeks. Otherwise, it's just a mess. I was thinking that a more powerful engine or a better mulching deck design or blade design might take care of it - or are you telling me that it has to be mowed twice?

By the way, I live in St. Michael area.

Thanks

[LwnmwnMan2]

Quote:

---

Thanks for your reply.

I'm pretty much thinking to stick with a quality 21" walk behind, which is what the Exmark was that I looked at (Metro 21). I have heard that these are good reliable machines that many lawn care guys use.

Of the 21" rotaries that are $1000 or less which are the best "cluck for the buck"? I appreciate your perspective and experience because the average person pretty much has to buy to find out how one cuts.

My grass seems to be fairly dry when I start to mow, but down lower in the grass, due to being dense, it's still wet. So, it clumps.

I have been mowing 2 consecutive times the last 5-6 weeks. Otherwise, it's just a mess. I was thinking that a more powerful engine or a better mulching deck design or blade design might take care of it - or are you telling me that it has to be mowed twice?

By the way, I live in St. Michael area.

Thanks

---

One issue that MIGHT help, is trying mowing a little higher, especially if you're mulching. Try to mow at 3.5" or so. One thing alot of people need to learn is to have something of a "shaggy" looking yard, rather than one that looks like astroturf. It should look more like field turf.

If you're already mowing at a higher level, then try to side discharge rather than mulching. Also, as long as you're not mowing over rocks, and you're mowing fairly high, run a bungee cord over the discharge chute and keep the chute open.

Obviously this is only going to work on a model that you're going to have that discharges out the side, not a rear discharge. Last thing you want is the blades throwing stuff into your shins..... that's what a trimmer is for.

The Toro personal pace are pretty good. One brand that I see alot of around here are the Hondas that you can get a Northern.

One problem shopping at a big box store is they don't have much of a turn around time for fixing things, if at all.

Personally, I'd recommend going to an actual dealer.

Here's what you should look for mostly in a mower.

Hondas for one, will have a blade brake, at least some of the models.

This means the engine will keep running without the blade, whether you're running it across the yard to where you need to mow, across the driveway, where ever. Each time you take your hand off of the handle, it doesn't die and you don't have to pull the rope again.

I would recommend something that has at LEAST a 6 hp motor.

Toro and Snapper both make models that have actual oil filters that can be changed, I'm not sure about the Exmarks, but further review of their HSOforum, it doesn't look like the Honda engine options do.

Truthfully, the high end "commercial" mowers are all going to be about the same. It's when you start buying at the big box stores, or like most things, when you start going "for the cheap" that you're going to have issues.

I think that for the smaller 21" mowers, Snapper probably has about the best cut, but then again, you want the higher end. Although, I can't complain about the 21" Toro that I've had in my trailer for 6 years that I've never changed oil in....

It's to the point now, where I want to see how far it'll go before it won't run on 6 year old oil..... I know I know... dumb, but sometimes you have to run certain experiments as well......

[FishingIdiot]

Everything you say seems to add up, especially the part about the "big box" stores and the support.

Thanks again for your help.

[TKO_PUNCH]

LwnmwnMan,

You are absolutly right about mowing your lawn at around 3 or 3.5 inches. I learned the "easy" way. All my neighbors with irrigation systems keep their lawns looking like astroturf, and it does look nice, until this year. If you read my posts from the past, I also installed an irrigation system this year and also thought I would now be able to keep my yard nice and short. Just after I installed the system I caught an episode of some home improvement show and they highly recommended keeping the grass longer for a few good reasons. So I started doing this and wouldn't you know, my neighbors yards started to burn this summer even with irrigation systems and mine didn't. All I had to do was go out and just trim the tops of the grass blades to make the yard look nice, even though it was a lot longer than the neighbors. Just some good advice for some people that live in sandy areas.

Also, my newly overseeded areas are starting to sprout and is really looking nice. I plan on waiting until the grass blades get to 3.5 inches before I mow. Does this sound good LwnmwnMan?

[reddog]

I'm in Northwest Iowa. Thanks (about the acreage) Cant wait to get out there full time. Havent been able to sell our current home , so were in limbo, with two mortgages

This season is toast, but I'm still shopping a mower for my wifes 50th birthday.

I think I'll take a close look at the Clay County Fair this week.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Lawn mower man.

I need some advice also.

I recently purchased a ten acre acreage, that has a fair amount of buildings, a nice 1928 bungaloe style home, and lots of grass to mow. (and lots of trees)

New Farm

The mower I have, is a Cub Cadet, with a 54" cut, and I also bought the Craftsman 48" rider at the farm auction for the place I bought.

While these work, (about 3 1/2 for wife and I on both mowers)

I'm looking for something better/faster, that does a better job. There are many trees on the acreage, and almost all of the mature trees have quite a slope around them, which finds the current stable of mowers digging the deck into the ground upon entrance to go around.

Like the OP, I'll spend whatever it takes to buy a quality mower, but only want to do it once, with no regrets.

As you well know, everybodies mower is the best when its time to buy.

any suggestions.

I'm intrigued by the ZTR concept, but does any mower handle the sloped trees well?

---

Where are you located??

Quick answer for the trees.... you're stuck.

The only thing really you can do, is raise the deck up on the mower until you're situated on the slope, then put the deck back down, and go around the tree.

I'll be back with more opinions for you. Nice place by the way....

---

[Lazy Mike]

The best "tool" purchase I ever made was a 36" Exmark Metro walk-behind 2002 for $2000. I only have a 3/4 acre lawn so I wasn't sure if I really needed a comercial grade mower but I sure am happy I went with the Exmark. I reduced mowing time by 1/2 and really improved the look of the yard. The engine is a 13hp Kohler and it will cut through anyting. Everytime I watch my neighbors struggle with their grass I can't understand why more people don't invest in these things. The mower is really solid and I can't see ever needing another.

[FishingIdiot]

Thanks for your opinion - the 21" looks solid as well and goes for $1200. It's a lot but if it lasts 20-25 yrs. and does a good job the whole time...