Reconnecting Wires - Frustrating

[eyepatrol]

Okay, I'll be the first to admit that I'm a complete stranger when it comes to electrical hookups, wiring, etc. Seriously, a 1st grader would know more than I do.

So I got to describe and ask about my situation.

I'm wanting to put the wiring connections back on my boat batteries. I should have marked everything, taped it, drawn a diagram, etc last fall before winterizing, but I didn't. A little background info: I've got an Alumacraft TS 175 with starting battery at the stern and 2 trolling motor batteries (24v trolling motor) towards the bow (under the rod locker).

Here's what I do know about connecting wires: red is positive and black is negative. I also know which wires need to go on which batteries. But the dilemmas I'm have are this:

1) The trolling motor batteris - two of the red cables for each battery have a square, rubber "cap" connected to it. I assume these caps are no bid deal and that they get placed over the battery post when everything is connected? Also, these rubber caps don't have an affect on the connection or transfer of current, do they? Here's a pic of the trolling motor battery compartment and cables if that helps at all.

2) Stern starting battery - there are two sets of blue and yellow wire connectors of which one has a red rubber cap over it. First question - which gets connected to the positive post and which to the negative post? Also, the two wire connectors "inside" the red rubber cap - are these to be connected because I don't know if I could get them to connect? The boat does have extra wiring for a future bow mounted locator....perhaps these are for that? And on a side note - the blue and yellow wire connections - when touching them to the battery posts with the blue touching the positive and the yellow touching the negative - there was a soft, continous beap I could hear. Not sure what that's all about? Here's an image of the stern battery compartment where the starting battery goes.

None of this would have ever happened if I had my head screwed on straight last fall before disconnecting everything, but if anyone could help me out, I would be very, very greatful! Otherwise I'll have to spend money and bring it to a dealer.

Thanks!

[LMITOUT]

The rubber caps are there to prevent accidental contact with the positive battery terminal and some ground point causing a direct short. After you screw down the wires just slide the cover over the terminal and wire connectors.

On the starting motor I'm not sure what you've got there, but I would guess that the one with the rubber cap is again the postive wire. I have the same thing on my boat and there are two sets of wires going to each post. If one is paired with the positive motor wire, then that SHOULD also be the positive for the electronics and other stuff as well. Like you said, they could very well be for a future locator.

Don't get hung up on the color of the connectors. They don't represent anything other than that the blue ones are for smaller wires and the yellow are for larger gauge wire.....doesn't matter if they are positive or negative leads....it's just a standard color code for electrical connectors and gauge of wire that will fit in them.

[eyepatrol]

Thanks Dan. The only thing about the wires in the rubber cap for the starting battery is that they are not long enough to spread apart and connect to each of the posts. That's the only reason I was thinking maybe they were for the future locator?

On the starting battery, after I hooked up the main/heavy black and red cables, I tried putting I think the yellow cable connector on the positive post and got a few sparks to fly. Can't imagine this would be a good thing! Must mean that connection goes on the other post?

[eyepatrol]

Well I simply started connecting wires and I got everything to work but the bilge pump. The light for the pump came on for a minute or two, but the pump never ran, then the light went out so I'm gonna have to take it in. Pretty important part to have working, but at least the rest of the stuff works.

Lesson learned.

[PerchJerker]

Quote:

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The light for the pump came on for a minute or two, but the pump never ran, then the light went out

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I'm guessing that your impeller was stuck or froze and you either blew a fuse or the pump itself. Either should be something you can fix yourself.

Check the fuses first, they are probably on a fuse panel but it is possible that there's an in-line fuse somewhere.

If the fuses look good, try to take your pump out. There are a few different styles, some a little easier to get out than the others. The toughest part is usually just getting access to them and not having much room to work. Check over the pump (ie. see if the impeller spins) and try to test it directly to a battery. Don't be surprised if you have to replace it. Gander or Cabelas likely carry the exact same pump.

Good luck.

[eyepatrol]

Yep, my thoughts exactly....after I gave it some time to sink in.

I'm going to check the fuses tomorrow, but anything involved with the pump itself is going straight to the dealer. That kind of stuff is completely foreign to me.

[Bearfan1963]

Before spending $$$ for a stuck impellor, its easy enough to give the pump a little twist to the left to unlock it from the lower housing, pull it out, give the impellor a little spin, lube it a little and place back into lower housing, lock back into place with little turn to the right.

Up to you.

[Valv]

Beware your pump might be an automatic type. When you connect wires they buzz for a couple of seconds then stop. It will come back alive if you take on water, but it should have an override position in the switch where you can run it manually. Call dealer before bringing the whole rig.

Next time get zip ties and tie all that goes on each post together, you'll have a bundle of wires for Neg, another for Pos, etc.

The square gray little boxes are resettable breakers, there's a little black button to push in case of overload.

[eyepatrol]

Thanks Valv. This fall I'm definitely grouping wires together!

I'll try throwing some water down there to see if it kicks in, and will also check the fuses. The circuit breakers did not pop out, so there wasn't an overload. The bilge pump worked just fine last fall, so hopefully it's just a fuse.

[eyepatrol]

Checked the fuse panel and noticed the fuse was fried for the bilge pump. Went and bought some replacement fuses. I wonder though....if there was water back there and it was froze, could this cause the fuse to fry up?

[Scott K]

yes it can blow the fuse!

[Eric Wettschreck]

Quote:

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if there was water back there and it was froze, could this cause the fuse to fry up?

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Yes. If there is frozen water in there, and the pump can't spin, it will overamp and blow the fuse.

Get it out in the sunlight and let things thaw, (Yeah right with the crappy weather lately), and try again.

[eyepatrol]

That's what I thought. Thanks guys. I'll get it out in the sun and even dump some warm water in there to try and thaw things out. I bought a few extra fuses, so I can play around with it a bit. They're cheap.

[PerchJerker]

It's possible you have some sand or grit in the impeller too. It's more common with livewell pumps but it happens. As the other poster noted, spinning an impeller is usually enough to fix them.

[bkft]

Hey Basscatcher,

I just bought a Alumacraft TP 175 and will be wiring a bow locator and on-board charger myself (once I pick it up, that is). Did you find out if those extra wires back by the starter battery run up to the bow or not? That would save me a headache when it comes to running wires for the locator. Also, just out of curiosity, if you have an on-board charger, 2 or 3 bank and where did you install it?

Thanks. Hope things work out with your wiring/bilge!

John

[LMITOUT]

The Alumacraft I had had two wires in both the front and in the rear for wiring in an aftermarket accessory. One was up by the bow and the other was back by the transom area. These wires came from the main fuse block and were switched by the accessory switch on the dash. All you should have to do is grab a multimeter and check for voltage on the ends of these leads. You may have to turn the switch (if you have one) to get a reading if it is wired like my boat was.

[eyepatrol]

Hi bkft. I found that the extra wires were not actually 'extra' and didn't run up to the front of the boat. They were actually the positive wires for much of the boat functions controlled by the switches at the console.

I do have an on-board charger and it's a 2-bank. It's located back under the port console and is wired to the 2 trolling motor batteries located in the battery storage compartment under the floor of the rod locker. It's a Minnkota brand charger.

As for installation, I bought the boat used from a guy that works as a boat salesman (it was his private boat). So I'd think it's safe to assume he had it wired where he works.

Good luck and enjoy the rig!

[eyepatrol]

Wahooooo! I got the bilge pump to work! I opened the access 'panel' in the splashwell, shot some water around the bilge (a few gallons worth probably), turned the pump on and VOILA! Water shootin' out!

My guess.....the impeller was lodged with debris as suggested.

Only thing left to make the rig 'right' is to get some trailer guide-ons (bunk style) to make the boat load on straight. Rig barely fits through the garage the way it is, and if the boat is on the trailer crooked, it's even worse (had to do a little trim repair on the garage door when I took the boat out Monday ).

Thanks for the responses!