Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. 😀

  • RECEIVE THE GIFTS MEMBERS SHARE WITH YOU HERE...THEN...CREATE SOMETHING TO ENCHANT OTHERS THAT YOU WANT TO SHARE

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  
DaveyG

help! I broke my gas auger!

Recommended Posts

I have a Jiffy 2hp gas auger with a Tecumseh engine. I broke it while trying to start it last night. I was pulling on the cord to start it and then it suddenly lost resistance. It's like I can feel the cord is not engaging with the engine. The cord still retracts, though. When I peeked inside the engine, it looks like the cord rotates this little black plastic piece which is somehow supposed to connect to the engine and turn it over, but it looks like I snapped something off that black plastic piece. Anyone know what the piece is called? where I can buy a replacement? can I replace this myself or do I need special tools?

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had this very same problem happen to my strikemaster a couple of weeks ago. It turned out that it was just frozen, see that little black piece is supposed to move up or down when you pull the cord and then it engages to start the motor. Well all that was wrong was that it had been in the back of the truck one day when it was raining and then we got a cold snap and that little black piece had gotten frozen. If you haven't already, try bringing it in the house and thawing it out and see if that makes a difference. It worked for me, hope it does for you too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll take a look at it when I get home today. I brought it inside last night. But I'm doubtful that's the problem, because it was engaging the first few times I pulled it last night. I would have had to have frozen in the 3 seconds between pull number 3 and pull number 4.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine got stuck after the second pull. At least it doesn't cost anything to warm it up and try it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If there was some gunk frozen on the shaft, it might not have hung up on the first pull or two, but on the third you might have tugged it a tiny bit harder and it hung on you. Hopefully warming it up will free it, take a look at the shaft and see if you can slide the cord winder up and down, once it's freed up a shot of an appropriate lube might help. I'm not sure what that "appropriate lube" might be, but......

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good advice, Cliffy!

"If it moves, but isn't supposed to: duct tape. If it doesn't move but should: WD-40."

the handyman's secret weapons grin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The plastic part is supposted to be conected to the bottom of the cover. mine is a strick master and it broke had to replace

it. frown.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I took another look at it when I got home today and made a phone call to a service center. It looks like I broke the plastic piece as I feared. I believe I pulled too hard when trying to start it yesterday and broke the starter pulley. That's the plastic piece that has the rope wrapped around it and engages and turns the flywheel when you pull the rope. Now I need to find the part and attempt to replace it. If anyone else has ever had to replace this part, I'd love to hear about your experience.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually the same thing happened to me.My plastic piece had chipped,but still worked so I called strikemaster, and they sent out the piece in no time! Then I ended up working close to Big Lake and brought the powerhead in and the part to Strikemaster. They fixed it right then and there in no time and said, "anything else!" grin.gif Awesome Customer Service!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought I'd post any update on my progress in case anyone else every has this problem with a Jiffy auger. I called Jiffy and using my phone number the automated customer service recommended the three closest authorized Jiffy service centers. So I called up the place nearest my house called River Lake Small Engines and they had the part. It costs $9.95 and I'm going there to get it right now. Also, through some internet searching I found a maintenance guide for TC 300 engines. That's the model of Tecumseh engine in my auger. The url is http://www.cpdonline.com/694782.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do a search in the Equipment-Expert Information forum for the last year for these words: +Strikemaster +recoil. This has been discussed there repeatedly (It happened to me, too!) and you should find a wealth of Info on your repair.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It took a few hours of working on it, but I was able to replace the starter pulley and the auger works great now. The hardest part was taking the cover off the engine. The manual I have says that all I have to do is remove one nut that connects the fuel tank to a bolt on the engine cover and then remove the fuel tank before unscrewing the other bolts and removing the engine cover. Well, there's a lot more holding the fuel tank on to the engine than just that one nut. I never did figure out hold to get the fuel tank off. I ended up cracking the little plastic loop that extends off the fuel tank and loops over the bolt on the engine cover. Then I could unscrew the bolt underneath it to remove the engine cover. Though this technique did "break" the little plastic loop, it still works fine and you wouldn't realize that I broke it if you looked at it. And I didn't have to remove the fuel tank. After I got the engine cover off, I just followed the instructions in the manual with a couple of exceptions. The manual says to remove the pin holding the rope in the handle and release the rope and let the starter pulley spin and release the tension in the spring. I waited until I took the cover off to do that so I could control how fast that spinning happened. Also, I notice that there was only about 1 rotation of tension in the starter pulley when I released it, so when I put the new one on, I only gave it one rotation of tension. The manual said 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 rotations, and that seemed like too much to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • And when it happens it will probably have one if it's main ingredients just happen to be alcohol based. Strange how that works.    
    • LOL     Why is this ancient thread being revived?  I'm waiting for the product placement in this saga.
    • I say don't keep any gas in anything that is going to sit. Any problems with fuel are water problems not the alcohol. You take out the alcohol in Minnesota in winter you get frozen fuel lines. This was common in winter for decades until ethanol was added but they used isopropyl rather than ethyl alcohol. In fact many of the " remedies" are just other forms of alcohol. If you get so much water in the fuel that the alcohol gets saturated and phases out then you have a contamination issue and the problems won't be solved by  removing the alcohol. You will just have more unbound water sitting at the bottom of your tank building sludge.   Lots of the problems with small engines are derived from the chemicals that come up with the crude in the well. Companies blend this into the fuel rather than pay to dispose of it and that is what gunk's up the fuel system. Gumout was invented long before ethanol and carb cleaner was a regular maintenance procedure needed because of those chemicals mucking up the fuel system. Alcohol is a very good solvent and it does a good job of cleaning up deposits left from those chemicals but as a consequence of that cleaning action you will get clogged Jets and such periodically. But in that case alcohol is the good guy that is cleaning up the dump left behind by the fuel. 
    • I tell people all the time do not use ethanol at all in equipment your store for extended times. I often hear but, but I use it in my car all the time. I respond do you drive your car often? Yes they say. I tell them then your fuel did not have time to become water saturated. There is good reason wise car collectors store their prized classics with non-ethanol fuel only.
    • Bacterial growth in carb bowl filled with water & ethanol. The ethanol component of the fuel becomes saturated with water and settles to bottom of fuel tank. Over time it goes down fuel line by gravity into carb bowl as fuel evaporates out. The water saturated ethanol separates from gasoline as it is heavier.
    • Here is some of the jelly from water being absorbed by ethanol and then bacteria acting on it. Luckily I caught this early before it caused more corrosion. Will post pic of rag with "jelly" (bacterial slime) I pulled out of this carb bowl. Stihl also has some wonderful pics & warnings of damage done by ethanol you can google.
    • Oxidizers were federally mandated in 1997. Politicians took big contributions from the ethanol industry which is set up to benefit ethanol manufacturers and big operations. It has in fact hastened the demise of small and medium farms and the rural communities that depended on them. The farm belt has suffered greatly as a result of regulations passed that benefit the big operations. Small & medium farmers cannot compete with growing ag corporations who can buy seed with big discounts, often exploit illegal workers and can ship product cheaper. Corn had it's short 10 year or so boon after 1997. But that went bust as more marginal land was tilled under & overproduction was achieved to the benefit of ethanol producers. Many farms are still going bust or selling out to the big corporations. 75% of the land in production is owned by big corporate farms. 30 years ago you could flip that number around. So what has this gov't subsidy done for most farmers? Put them out of business!
    • Sorry if I came across as a bit abrasive.  Some of us can get a little surly around here and sometimes we forget we aren't talking to one of the other surly long-timers.   I get what you're saying about a more hunting specific truck with some specific bells and whistles designed with hunters in mind.  I do think the best way to get a truck like that would be to find the base model truck you like for all of the normal stuff trucks come with and then look for some sort of after market option.  There has to be a pro or 2 out there that can take on such a project if you aren't up for tackling it yourself.  I'd be a bit nervous cutting into a new truck as well so would look to hire it out as well.   A couple things that I'd like.  A winch in the bed like you mentioned.  Could be used for loading deer, portable ice houses, or other large loads when you don't have another guy to help. Some sort of instant heat or maybe an app that could start your car from the stand. Maybe some sort of gun safe type lock box behind the seats or in the floor so that if you can keep your rifle or shotgun cased and locked up.  It could be useful for times you may want to sneak out for a hunt after work and you want a better way to secure your firearm when at work.
    • Just a seasoning packet. Adjust the recipe as you see fit. A late summer batch with fresh sweet corn off of the cob works pretty well.     
    • I have a nice truck, but.... For 1 week a year there are things that I would like to change/add. Keyless start would go with keyless entry, like the new ranger boat, punch in your number and go. I can not turn off my lights on my gmc sierra. I install 12v electronics professionally but I wouldn't feel as comfortable cutting into wiring harnesses to add switches as I am tearing all wiring from a boat and doing it from scratch. I'm not trying to hide from the animals, I don't want people to know where my hunting spots are and chrome sticks out bad. I go farther and climb higher and sit longer than 95% of fellow hunters which is why I average 6.3 deer/year (legally) but people who know of my success will seek out my parking spot and return thinking that its the only good spot to hunt. Anyways... I was just trying to open up a friendly conversation about a perfect hunting rig to get people out of the political talk that HSO seems to be about. My best stand is walking distance from my house so all I need a truck for is to retrieve my bucks. Was hoping for something besides abrasive comments and criticism that seems to follow most of my posts. I'm sorry I will quietly read and keep my fingers away from the keyboard. I made it into the ALL TIME RECORD BOOK with a 172" typical public land giant when I drove a 2000 Chev Malibu 24k gold edition anyway. Thanks for reading and have a wonderful time. 
×
×
  • Create New...