Jump to content

  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

ames oil

cotfish

By cotfish
in Ice Fishing

 Share

Recommended Posts

nluchau Rising Star

nluchau

Posted
Posted

1 1/2 ounce to a gallon = 24:1. I bought some from Amsoil at the ice show from a rep that told me the same thing. It also says on the bottle how much to use for 24:1 ratio.

My mistake - 1 1/2 oz = 100:1 shocked.gif

nluchau

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bob_D Rising Star

Bob_D

Posted
Posted

For 100:1 (which I run) it is ~ 1.25 oz per gallon (128 oz in a gallon). 50:1 would be ~2.5 oz per gallon. 24:1 is ~ 5 oz per gallon. I would not recommend running anything richer then 50:1.

The 1.5 oz mixture above is ~ 80:1 which is a good ratio for those who can't get comfortable running 100:1. wink.gif

Your auger should run great at 80:1 or 100:1.

This is Amsoil Saber Profesional...right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
nluchau Rising Star

nluchau

Posted
Posted

On my 8 oz bottle it says this

Amsoil Saber Professional 100:1 pre-mix Synthetic 2-cycle oil.

2.6 oz per US gallon = 50:1

8 oz per (5) US gallon = 80:1

1.3 oz per US gallon = 100:1

So I guess Im running at 100:1 My mistake about the 24:1.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Phred52 Mentor

Phred52

Posted
Posted

cotfish, Exactly which oil did you purchase? Hopefully, you bought the "Amsoil Sabre Professional". That oil can be mixed at anywhere from a 50:1 to a 100:1 ratio. At the 50:1 to 80:1 ratios, its pretty much used for heavy duty/ commercial applications. At 80:1 to 100:1, it's a GREAT mix for all your small engines, such as an auger, chainsaw, pretty much any of your small 2 stroke equipment, all the way up to the 2 stroke motorcycles, snowmobiles and ATV's. As far as ratios, 1.5 fl. oz. oil to 1 gallon of gas will give you a 100:1 ratio. I don't have a chart handy, but if you're more comfortable with an 80:1 ratio, use 1.5 fl. oz. to .85 gallons of gas. I've been using synthetic oil for years and I wouldn't even consider going back to dinosaur oil. My fishhouse doesn't stink after I open the holes and I don't have black spots all over my walls. Phred52

Link to comment
Share on other sites
T-ProGuy Enthusiast

T-ProGuy

Posted
Posted

I have been following these type of posts for a while, and to be honest, I am a bit confused...

You mean that I can safely run an ice auger calling for a 24:1 ration at 50, 80 or 100:1 if I use AmsOil? I picked up a bottle of the Sabre Oil today, and have been holding off mixing it until I was 100% sure. I will be using it in a 3HP Strikemaster that is about 10 years old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
theoilman Proficient

theoilman

Posted
Posted

The best AMSOIL 2-cycle oil to use in all the 2-cycle pre-mix augers is the Saber Professional. AMSOIL gives you lubricant guarantee to use it at 100-1 mix ratio. However, many people are skeptical or even afraid to run it that lean. Because of this I recommend you start richer, say 80-1 or even 50-1. Even at 50-1 it is smokeless in most machines.

AMSOIL 2-cycle lubes are full synthetic, and a far superior lube to all petroleum based lubes - also they are ashless which means they burn clean leaving no carbon behind.

If you are using one of AMSOIL's other 2-cycle lubes - the mix ratios (max lean) are: Interceptor 50-1, Dominator 50-1, HP Injector 50-1, Saber Outboard 100-1.

Saber Professional is the best choice to use (product code ATP), but there is crossover between the products - the others will work.

To purchase you can go to my site below.

We ship from the closest regional distribution center - Superior, WI or Chicago, IL for most people here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Phred52 Mentor

Phred52

Posted
Posted

T-ProGuy, The answer is YES!!!. With Amsoil, you mix up one gas can at 100:1 and feed all of your small 2 strokes from it. I personally use it in a Stihl chainsaw, a Stihl weedwhip and in a 2 year-old Eskimo Z-51 Shark auger, All at 100:1. Matter of fact, I mixed up a gallon today. I only mix it by the gallon so I always have fresh fuel, seldom does my container hold the same fuel over 3 weeks. I'm always running fuel through some equipment. Thanks Oilman, You've said it all. If more people would try Amsoil, They would leave the dinosaur oil for good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
glendam Contributor

glendam

Posted
Posted

I just switched over this year and cant believe how much better the auger runs! I have Jiffy 2hp that last year took about 20 pulls to get started when it was cold, now it takes about 2! It's also not spitting black dump out the muffler and all over everthing anymore! smile.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • Mike89
      Just Food and Drink

      By Mike89 · Posted

      I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • Wanderer
      Just Food and Drink

      By Wanderer · Posted

      You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • Mike89
      Problems with Yetti

      By Mike89 · Posted

      good luck!!!   
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • Wanderer
      Problems with Yetti

      By Wanderer · Posted

      I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • rundrave
      Problems with Yetti

      By rundrave · Posted

      reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • smurfy
      Just Food and Drink

      By smurfy · Posted

      Chef boyardee pizza from the box!

  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

  I accept