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Switching Trailers - Feasible?


eyepatrol

Question

The boat rig I bought recently has a roller trailer with it, and it's quite a bugger to get the boat on there straight, aligned correctly. In fact, I haven't been able to get the boat on there correctly yet!

Is it feasible to get a bunk trailer instead of the roller trailer for the Alumacraft Tournament Sport 175 boat I got? I see lots of glass boats with bunk trailers....would it work for an aluminum boat? I'd assume it would.

Thanks.

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Have had roller trailers under my last three boats.The trick is not to back into the water any deeper than the tail lights and make sure it is as level as possible.I thought about going to a bunk style trailer but feared i would not be able to launch at some less than perfect sites.Dealers seem very reluctant at trading trailers.Would more than likely cost more than you were hoping.Keep practicing it will get better.Burl.

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I put those PVC trailer guides on my roller trailer.

they keep my boat centered when loading. Also they allow me to see the trailer when the boat isn't on it.

Another trick is to back the trailer into the lakeuntil the rear rollers are under water just enough to allow the boat to climb onto them.

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Don't listen to the cheap fixes.

I went through the same research and I decided spend the $$$ on a new Prestige Bunk Trailer this spring. Prestige is the trailer that Cablelas puts under the Alumacrafts they sell.

This was the best thing I ever did. Loading is a snap now. I have a Lund Fisherman 1800 and it had a Karavan roller under it.

I will add I have had other boats with roller trailers so I am no rookie, and did not have as much of a problem loading as the Fisherman.

But the Fisherman / Karavan combination sucked and it had to go.

Put my new kicker off for a year doing that! frown.gif

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I haven't Valv....but also didn't know that could be done. I'll look into that.

Thanks for the responses. The lakes I've been going to have very uneven ground where the trailer is backed into the water, making it even more difficult. I've kept the trailer just high enough out of the water, yet with the rollers covered with water as discussed. It's just with the uneven launches, it's really tough to get the boat on alignment and I'm spending 15 - 20 minutes trying to do so. Thank goodness I'm the only one at the launch this time of year, but come opening weekend next year, that won't go over to well with other boaters. smirk.gif

I'll do some looking into these other options (replacing rollers, trailer guides, etc). Hopefully I can find something that will help.

Thanks!

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I had some real problems power loading my boat(couldn't get it started straight enough) then someone else backed the trailer in a bit deeper and I tried it that way and it finally went on straight. My rollers are only about 6 inches apart. I have to get my trailer in so that only the front rollers are out of the water or is no go and I have some people that are very experienced power loading try(figured it was just) and they couldn't get it either.

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I had some minor problems with the roller trailers too. I tried various methods including making sure not to back it in too deep eg. just submerging the rear rollers. What I have found out now is that actually, you do have to submerge it quite a bit, at least for me. When I did not, I have an increased tendency to have it loaded crooked. Nowadays, with my pole guides and with the trailer submerged deeper in, it is often loaded straight. Also, I find that sometimes, if you are loading crooked at one launch, try another launch. It may be that ramp is not level and causing you to load crooked. A level ramp is also very important in making sure the boat loads right. If not, you must make various adjustments to account for it.

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One other thing to try is to fill (or empty) one or more of your live wells. If I winch my Fisherman on with no one on board then it loads level (if the ramp is), if I'm on board (power load) then I need to have one of the livewells filled.

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It is not a cheap fix, newer trailers are all assembled at dealer, this way they can be transported stacked and don't take much room. Frame is same for all of them, then all the accessories are added, some even have the axle U Bolted to frame so you can slide it back and forth to find exact weight balance.

Check if your roller arms are U Bolted to frame, it might be even possible asking a delaer to swap them for bunks at no extra charge, since rollers are more sought.

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