New lawn questions

[Scoot]

Fellas,

We built a new house last summer. Didn't get a lawn in before things froze up in the fall. I installed a sprinkler system this spring/early summer- I finally got that finished a week ago. I then sprayed it and killed the few weeds I had. Since then I finished the final grade work, seeded (just broadcast seeded it with a little hand seeder), and packed it with a lawn roller.

Here are my questions:

1) Can I still use Roundup on the lawn for a few days? I know Roundup has no direct-contact residual, but I also am aware that the chemical can spread by translocating through the roots. I'd guess I'm done with Roundup??? Just to be clear, the seed was put in on Sun (four days ago) and I don't expect to see any grass poking up for a while.

2) I did nothing with any fertilizer. Should I have? I imagine I don't need to, but doing so would help things along? Somebody tell me I don't need to worry about it so I don't feel obligated to do this.

3) Anything I should do with the lawn for now?

[harvey lee]

I would stay away from using any Round up now.

I have always used a starter to help it get going but you can do that at a later date.

I would just make sure you dirt is kept damp with watering if the rain stays away.

Depending on what seed you used your grass could come up shortly or be a week.The better grass always seems to take a bit longer.

[Steve Foss]

Yep, you're done using roundup for good now. Since the seed's laid already and will be sprouting in a few days, you'll have to wait with weed killer until probably next year. While the weed-killers you'll use will target broad-leaves, not grasses, it's still not a good idea to spray an infant lawn with them.

You shouldn't have fertilizer issues at all this year. I'd broadcast some 12-12-12 or 10-10-10 after the lawn dies in the fall, just before winter, so it'll have lots of nice nutrients that will leach in with the snowmelt and provide food next spring.

It will be interesting to see how the grass sprouts after you've run that lawn roller over it. I assume it's the metal drum kind you fill with water or is concrete filled. That's a good tool to use after sodding a lawn, but anytime I've planted seed for spot seeding, I've simply raked it in lightly and did not pack anything.

The best lawns I've seen are hydroseeded. I did that for several years. It's a mix of sprayed on water, mulch (like shredded newsprint pellets) and seed. If you keep it wet, you've got lawn sprouting in a week and healthy and thick and ready to mow in a month.

Good that you have the sprinkler system. The key now is keeping that seed moist and not letting the new grass dry out when it comes up.

Good luck!

[Scoot]

Thanks Fellers!

[Powerstroke]

I see you're from Fargo so I don't know how fussy they are up there about Phosphourus. Phos is the middle number or a fertilizer mixture. It is for fast growth and root development. Its also what causes so much algae growth in lakes and rivers.

In many bigger cities and especially in farm areas you are required by law to use phos-free fert. The only exception to that rule is for new lawns or plantings. I used to be a die-hard believer in using starter-fert when planting new grass seed, especially in a larger patch.

This year I've done a lot of seed planting for work and I've found that the best sites are in and thick within a month even though I didn't use fert. The number one thing is to water your lawn. Since you have irrigation this shouldn't be a problem. I have to say you'll probably be disappointed with the density of your lawn though if you used a hand speader. I like to use enough seed that I see more seed than dirt. Not a blanket, but more than 50% coverage on the ground. This works really well and leaves few thin spots. If you've got some seed still I would say use it all.

You can use a starter fert now if you'd like, but I wouldn't use other fertilizers until this fall when you would use a winterizer which will provide great root development which happens in the fall. You also get some help in the spring too from this application.

DO NOT USE ANY HERBICIDE through the end of this season. You will kill the grass seed and you will harm it while its growing. I know everybody else made that pretty clear, but it will be temptimg when weeds start to grow in your new lawn. PUll the ones you can and wait to spray until next year.

Depending on the type of grass mix you used, perennial ryegrass usually germinates in 7-10 days so you should have grass by early next week. The bigger blades and denser Kentucky bluegrass usually takes more like 21 days to get going but it is gonna be the one that will stick and become your new lawn. Congrats on your ambitious project!!

[Scoot]

PS and others,

If I am going to add more seed as PS suggests, can I simply spread it over the top and not incorporate it?

[Guest]

I seeded my yard last Labor day weekend. I then watered it twice a day for a month and a half then used a starter fertilizer.

This spring I seeded the bald spots and firtilized again.

It's looking pretty good now.

With the cooler temps in the spring and fall I think it works out better when seeding.

[moderation]

I have seeded a few new lawns and have never had any good results unless I put down mulch hay after putting down the seed. It keeps the soil damp longer so you don’t have to water as much, it rots so you don’t have to rake it up when

your lawn comes in and it helps to build a good sod quicker. Mulch hay is pretty cheap and can get your lawn going much sooner. Just spread it over the seed, water and watch the grass grow.

[Powerstroke]

What I do when I'm overseeding is spread the seed out and they use a still tined rake or maybe just your lawn roller to help turn it into the soil.

The biggest thing with using a lot of seed is also a problem with using too little seed.....either way you feed some to the birds. If you can lightly rake it in or pack it in a bit that helps with soil contact as well as preventing it from getting washed away or eaten.

[Steve Foss]

I've also relied almost always on mulch when seeding. I've found the shredded pellets of newsprint mulch or the green filaments you can buy at the garden center work the best. They make an excellent covering, absorb and hold water better than straw, decompose faster because the structure is not as rigid, and help keep the birds off, as well. Grass will easily sprout through half an inch of such mulch, as long as it's kept wet and not allowed to dry out and form a crust. Mulch also helps keep soil from eroding on slopes in case of rain in the couple of week it takes before your grass comes up and starts to put down roots to hold the soil. Even gentle slopes can erode in rain if there's no mulch.