Advice for trolling rod

[Luck e 1]

I posted this question in the Walleye category...but I thought i'd do it here as well.

I am looking for advice on what type of a trolling rod to use when pulling crank baits for walleyes. Any hints would help. I am also wondering if line counters help get the job done.

[deepportage01]

I use a 7 1/2 foot rod[avid] med hevy and abu bait caster reel.and when I need a line counter I use a clip on one [wal mart]$10.00. this work's good for me when trolling shad raps and husky's.

[RedDB76]

I have put together a couple of trolling setups over the past couple of years and am very happy with them. For strictly a trolling rod - go cheap! No need for expensive, sensitive graphite. It will be in a rod holder, and any bites or snags will be evident. I have a couple of Shimano TDR trolling rods (Fleet Farm has them at buy 1 get one free right now). I bought them last year on a similar deal, and they are good for what I need them for. I paired them with Daiwa Accudepths that I picked up on special at Cabela's - have yet to try the reels out, but the rods have worked great. I also have 2 Okuma trolling reels (one with linecounter, one without), that I would highly recommend. The Okumas are bigger than the Daiwa's - so they are being switched to heavier rods for some bigger fish. I wish I had bought linecounter models for both of the Okuma's - after having a linecounter, I wouldn't go back.

I am planning on setting up each rod/reel differently. Since I got such good prices on my setups, I can afford to do this. I am looking to put leadcore on at least 1 setup, I have 10# mono on one, and a lighter braid on another. With these 3 setups, I can significantly change running depth using the same lure.

I'm still working everything out - but definitely check out the deal at Fleet Farm on rods. For reels - I don't think you can go wrong with the Okuma's or Daiwa's - though, if you add a linecounter, the Abu's are fantastic reels as well.

D

[Borch]

I like a 6-7 ft graphite compostive casting rods with a good baitcaster in the med to med light action as I generally you spiderwire or power pro. I don't use line counters but instead put a bobber stop on the line at 100 ft as a reference marker. Thye line counter reals tend to be bunky and quite expensive if you're going to get one with a good drag system. I generally hold the rod so I can pump and pause the lure to trigger strikes. Although there are times where I use the rod holders as well.

[Bushwacker]

I like a 8' plus graphite/fiberglass composite rod for my trolling rods. My favorite right now is a Cabela's 8'6" telescopic rod paired with a Okuma line counter. I like to use as long of rod as I can find to get the lures out away from the boat so there is less chance of tangled lines. The graphite/composite rod also is much softer than an all graphite rod so there is a little more play in the intitial strike if the rod is in the rod holder. I lose far fewer fish with the softer rod.

[DuluthGuy]

Well, I'll pipe in.

I have a LOT of trolling for eyes and bigger fish time on the H2O.

Go cheap (post above)

Okuma linecounter size 20 reel ($30) with a ML (maybe a soft Med.) rod ($20-30) and 14# fireline.

OK the ML rod to take up the shock from a no-stretch super line.

Go 14# because of abrasion and snag removal abilities.

Put a BB swivel up about 3-5' from snap at end of the line.

I like Duolock or Norman Lures Speed Clip's for EOL snaps.

remember to loosen drag initially for strikes, then tighten as you start to reel in the fish. (no-stretch line rule #2)

Set-up with line should cost no more than $50-60

B2

P.S. Get the LC reel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would only buy the snap-on-rod LC if I was using my existing non-LC reel. (yes, I have used them to)