Ohhhh Boy!!!!!!

[Ihateriversnags]

When I first started going out catfishing with Wiskers, he set up my rod with 50 lb TUFF LINE. that with some heavy mono for my snells and I was in business. Hooked into a smaller channel (4-5 lbs) and it wrapped around a circular extremely sharp piece of scrap metal that was on the bottom. This tuff line was wrapped around that and I drug the whole thing into the boat and I couldn't even find a fray on the line. I did of course re-tie the line after that but I am forever hooked on the TUFF LINE. Ask wiskers and i'm sure he'll agree. Unless he changed this year and didnt tell me just yet LOL

[Guest]

Quote:

---

For some reason, mono works really well on large fish in high current. It does not cut that current well, but even half the lb test mono seems less likely to break than a super line of twice the lb test.

Mono has additional stretch, so it helps cushion the effect.

---

Dennis.. Comparing mono to superlines is similar to comparing a piano wire to a bungee cord. Even *low stretch* mono has a heck of a lot of stretch to it.

Think back when you were shorefishing sometime and got hooked in a snag on a longer cast.. how far back did you step before that line broke? 3-6 feet? The heavier the line, the heavier the pull before the line will reach the maximum stretch. When that hard fishing fish is out there playing in the heavy current, you will have your rod loaded very heavily.. so the rod is not going to give much more cushion... at the same time, your line might only be stretched to 20% of its capability. When the fish makes that abrupt turn, even with your drag excessively tight, your going to have an extra few feet of bungee effect before that line exceeds it limits(assuming it wasnt at max stress already).. or the fish has plenty of play to make a U-turn without putting excess load on the line.

On the other hand.. super lines.. your not going to get 6" of stretch on the longest cast. A big powerful rod capable of handling the line you have on it, and the line stressed to 80% off its break strength.. an abrupt U turn is going to break it every time on a big fish. The only way to get around that is with a longer, lighter rod that will provide the shock resistence the line doesnt, but still capable of playing that large fish in heavy current.. nothing short of a light action surf rod is going to stand up to that... like a giant fly rod would be a good comparison.. doesnt matter how hard you pull, your only going to get so much power out of the rod.

I know you know this, but now some other people do too unless that cant understand how I attempted to explain it

This brings up another issue that I think is the most important.

I agree that superlines have the average break strength of a mono of about 1/2 of the rated strength. (65# power pro and 30# any brand mono).

I know mono generally has a much higher break strength than what its labeled at.. most often, 14# test will break at about 20 pounds in controlled test conditions. Super lines might barely reach the quoted strength under the best possible test conditions to get the highest break strength rating possible.. or 65# X brand super line may never have a test result break at 70 pounds, where the mono break strength was 25% more than what the line is labeled at.. so in real fishing conditions with our preferred knots, whatever.. the box labeled strength is probably accurate within reason on mono.

This is in ideal situations with no other variables to weaken line strength.

I guess what I am saying, the numbers on the package are nothing but numbers. The extra durability of mono can give us a false sense of security with a super line with twice the rated break strength... you have heavier line so you put extra muscle into it because you have confidence in the number, not learned experience from the line.

Even with 80# power pro, I have my drag set similar to what it would be with 25# mono(or what the rod will handle). If I need more resistence, I will cup, or thumb the spool.. no exceptions. The lighter drag setting also saves me when I do hit a sharp snag.. less tension does less line damage.

If I havent rambled on long enough.. I'm going to add a little more...

Flatheads, I dont know why, but it took less energy to pull them in on 15# mono, as it does on 80# power pro. To me it seems these fish freak out the harder you pull on them... almost like a *panic mode* when you start horsing them someplace they dont want to be on heavy equipment.... at least they are not sissy's like muskies and fight for a minute and turn upside down!

[DTro]

All that's left to top off that spendy gear is a nice set of bells

Seriously, if I had that much invested in my rod and reel, I think I would attach safety chains to 'em. I'm guessing that the "ploop" of a Calcutta hittin the drink isn't a pleasant sound.

[Dennis Steele]

Very well put Dave.

Don't get me started on those dang bells!

Not allowed in my boat! I can't think of anything anymore irritating than those things. Well maybee. WWG using them!

[riverrat56]

I fish mostly mono, just a comfort thing, usually 30 lb, have only tried braids (power pro and spider wire) In 30-50lb, had more problems than good things, couldnt get knots to hold, would snap line on sharp under water snags ect. Would stepping up to 80lb line prevent some of the probelms with braids?

Does anyone use a big spinning reel for cats? I use one occasionaly, shakspear i think, (dont have the money to drop on a nice rod that is going to be in the mud by the river) I set the drag really loose and use it like a clicker, really like it except when i forget to tighten the drag down. Other than that I have an old ambassador 6500C that has seen more abuse than any other reel I own and has only need 1 minor repair, that reel has had mono on it for most of its life, switched to braid last year and had nothing but problems, thats when the spinning rod came out.

[hanson]

riverrat-

I won't use 50lb PowerPro anymore. Ask Fisher Dave why. Its now 80lb for me, or higher and I love it.

For tying knots, Palomar knot is the only knot I'll use. Other knots don't hold well with a superline.

I know that myself, Fisher Dave, dtro, and Dennis all use Okuma spinning reels with the baitrunner on them. They are nice and the adjustable drag on the baitrunner is a nice option.

[DTro]

also I noticed the other day that Okuma has a new model baitrunner. Has a couple less bearings, but has a very nice price at 39.99-49.99.

Here's the Epixor:

and the Avenger:

[blacksportsman]

Add me to the Okuma Baitfeeder bandwagon. Picked up an Epixor 65 this winter. Comes with an extra aluminum spool so I plan on spooling one with 65# Power Pro and the other with 25# Big Game. I'm hoping to break it in this weekend with That Guy down on the Truman Reservoir, but that all depends if my 9' Berkley Reflex makes it here in time...it's already a week overdue

I'm a mono guy, usually 20#-25#, but I plan on trying superlines on some of my own reels this year. They definitely have their place in the catfisherman's arsenal.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Quote:

---

Add me to the Okuma Baitfeeder bandwagon.

---

Me, too. I've got the EB50. It's been pretty sweet, so far. Just don't take it apart Okuma has mine right now to put back together

[Dennis Steele]

Okuma does make a few less expesive baitfeeder type spinning reels.

They also are the makers of Cabelas version as well as a Rhino version.

What you have to watch for is that the feeder disengages when you turn the handle. Many don't and you go to set the hook and whiff, you end up with a back lash and a lost fish.

I like the EB model because it has the best drag and the feeder disengages.

rushing had a reel that was pretty darn good too. I wish I could rember what it was. Maybee he'll see this and chime in?

[Ralph Wiggum]

I've heard good things about Shimano's version, too, but it's a little bit more spendy.

[Random guy]

I spooled it onto a Abu 7000 with my spooling machine and I did run the tension up pretty high. I just stripped it back off and I am going to re-run it on by hand using the old bolt through the spool in the vice trick. Maybe I'm so used to using braids for so long this stuff seems odd to me. I can put a shape or soft kink in this stuff, set it on the table and it stays like that, doesn't even attempt to go back to normal. In fact I doubled it back to hook it onto the rod , like you would do when you are done fishing and the dang kink or bend from the end guide stays in the line no matter what you do. I think I have some stainless buck tail wire in the garage with more flex.

[hanson]

Quote:

---

rushing had a reel that was pretty darn good too. I wish I could rember what it was.

---

It was a Tica.

[Guest]

river rat.. you will see huge improvements with switching up to #80 from 50# power pro. Dont get me wrong, a sharp rock can still cut it, but a sharp rock will cut any line with 50 pounds of pull trying to get out of a snag.

Power pro also works great on spinning reels. Zero problems with reel function and the line..

My biggest beef with power pro is certain types of weights like to *wrap up* on the drop because the line is so limp. No rolls are the worst for this. I figured out the cure to this problem. When you cast and your weight lands.. be sure to *feather* the line a little bit to give some resistence. The will bring your weight back towards you a little bit, but it will also keep the bait behind the weight causing just enough tension on the line to keep your weight from wrapping up at the swivel. If you cast and let the weight do a free fall, its going to spin like a top on the way down and your not going to be happy.

You dont have to close the bail, or cup the spool as soon as it lands.. just try to keep the line somewhat resisted on the drop.

The cheap spinning reel comment. We still use a few cheapo's too. If its sturdy and the drag works, holds enough line.. it works for me until it is dead, and then I relace it with something better. The Okuma spinning reels do cost a little more than the $25 cheapo's.. but the baitrunner feature and a well built reel is worth every penny. They are not a high dollar reel, but they arent free either. I still have a couple old Shimano TX140Q reels.. that are holding up after many years of flathead fishing.. I cant kill the darn things. They have the fighting drag which is a quick drag adjustment lever that works great. I turn it down all the way waiting for a strike, then i just flip the lever to the right and the drag is about perfect without playing with the bail.

You guys are killing me with all this talk of catfishing! I am headed to Missouri tomorrow night to be fishing by Friday morning for Blues.. I'm about ready to hitch the boat and leave now.. but Manny might get a little upset if I left without him