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Motor repair(6 horse)


Lunker

Question

Got a 6 hp motor a fellow fmer was kind enough to give me. One reason, it doesn't work. I knew this getting it, and he said that one of the plugs gets no power. I am asking a 4 pronged question here. 1. Anyone know why this would be occuring? 2. Anyone fix motors as a job or oddjob? 3. If not, anyone know of a good place to get it fixed? 4. It's a Montgomery Ward, think anyone knows how to fix an old no longer in business motor like this?

[email protected] if you want to give me a business name.

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*montgomery ward* is either a johnson or a chrysler.. I am trying to remember which. I havent seen one for a while.

If you have no power to a spark plug(positively) you have a bad coil most of the time, or it can be points or a condenser also... depending on the year of the motor. I dont think I left anything out. It might be an easy fix, or an impossible fix depending on the year and the brand of the motor depending on if you can still find parts for it.

Before you make a bunch of repairs, I would check to see if you have any visual spark on either plug.. most of the time you can see a spark.. if you do in fact have spark, its likely time to pull the carb apart and clean it up or get a rebuild kit for it... this is assuming there is compression.

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Old air cooled MW? The repair bill would be more then the outboard is worth. With nothing to lose and everything to gain, what better opportunity to dig into it yourself. smile.gif

Like Dave said, points, condenser and coil. Get the serial number and call around to see if parts are available. I'd start by making sure the plug wire is OK. Could be as simple as a bad cap. Dirty or burnt and worn points would be my first guess. Go on to pulling the flywheel off. You can do this without a puller. Back the flywheel nut out till it covers the top of the threads. Hit the nut with a mallet while you have an assistant pry the flywheel out at 2 points. You don't have to pry very hard so be careful not to break anything. Theres a key in the flywheel that locks the position of the fly wheel to the shaft, look to see if its in good shape and not rolled over. Now you have everything exposed, points, condensers and coils. Pull the sparks plugs out. Trace the side that has no spark to its set of points. Turn the prop till you hit the high spot on the lobe that set of points rides on. Open the points with your finger and set a jewelers file into them. Slide the file out and repeat a few times.

Blow the filings out of there and spray clean the points with an electrical cleaner like CRC. Set the point gap. I couldn't tell you what they are but I'd start at 000.20 which conveniently is close to a matchbook cover.

Reassemble and give it a go. Still no spark? Have the coil tested, if it test good replace the points and condenser.

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If you're testing the spark with the spark plug attached, start with new plugs, too. My first motor many years ago barely started and ran so-so with the old plugs (could see spark) but great when I put in new plugs.

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Anybody know what the gas/oil ratio for this motor would be? I have the model number if that would help, but thought maybe it'd be more universal, or at least for the brand.

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Quote:

*montgomery ward* is either a johnson or a chrysler.. I am trying to remember which.


I think both Johnson and Chrysler/Force sold these, I believe Johnson sold to Chrysler in 1963 or 65, not positive on this, I beleive the motor was built by West Bend for Montgomery Ward.

Is it a Sea King? Is it a green motor "cowl" How about a serial number so we can pin down the year.

Good info in the above posts.

First thing I'd do is check spark and compression. You can get both these tools at most any auto parts store. Depending on when it was last run, you need to take it a part and clean all fuel passages as they get clogged with old gas.

Here is some parts info for ya.

SeaKing

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