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prop doesn't move !


mnvikingsfreak

Question

I'm preparing for the worst but the propeller on my 60's 75 hp johnson doesn't move at all in neutral or drive I haven't got the motor to start yet is this an easy fix if I get the parts at a junk yard?if so whats the prob with it?broken shaft or etc...?if anyone could tell me a rough estimate on the prices of the parts used and the time it would take it would be very helpful thanks for your time

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You must be desperate with the double post on this board today. smile.gifgrin.gif

Seriously, I don't know what to tell ya without looking at the motor. If you know how to tear a lower unit off the motor and inspect the gears, I would start there.

It is always feasible to find a outboard salvage business that might have a whole lower unit that fits that motor. It's worth a try if it's shot. I know people that have done that and it worked well.

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I had a 75 not move, and I needed a new hub for my prop. The rubber stripped out and was spinning inside. All you can do is hope it;s the hub or the pin. Its hard to tell if you can;t get it started. Do have a good spark?

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If you cant get it started then you probably need new spark plugs or the bulb inside. Whens the last time youve changed the spark plugs? It could be the hub, gears or shear pin also mentioned but it still should start.

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the spark plugs look new I think the reason it doesnt start the white box near the motor was open so water got in and there is the starter selnoid is in there and fuses and they got wet also the posative battery cable has cracks and is showing wires through I will need to replace these things I think but if I took off the lower end and try to start it would it hurt anything if I get it to start for only 5 seconds and turn it off real quick? or could I leave the seized lower end on the motor when I start it? I noticed on the pull start the prop doesnt move and its heavy as heck like pulling a 200 pound weight when I try to pull start it im confused! confused.gif

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You have to remove lower unit from motor, this way you will be able to find out if lower unit is frozen or motor is seized. You can run motor (if it runs) with no lower unit for few seconds (30 seconds or so), it's important not to let it get hot. If you had lower unit installed you wouldn't want to run it at all, or it will kill water pump impeller.

Split the unit and try that way.

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Pull the spark plugs first. You'll have to disconnect the shift linkage. Look of a 2x1" rectangle plate fastened with 2 screw mid way along the side of the drive. Remove it, you'll see the shift rod and a coupler with 2 set screws, remove the bottom screw.

Depending on whether you have a short shaft or long shaft you'll have 1 or two sets of four bolts. You what to remove the set of bolts just about the cavatation plate. You then will remove the bolt on the vertical fin.(its the fin below the cavatation plate) There may be a rubber plug above the fin thats hiding the bolt, not sure if its a n allen or hex head. Look for any other bolts that I may be missing.

You should be able to wiggle the lower drive free now. Don't pry with any tools like a screw driver. If you have to use a block of wood and mallet and tap in areas that aren't going to break off like the cavatation plate.

Now give the motor a few pulls, it should turns freely. If its still stiff oil the cylinders with any oil and pull it over again till it frees up.

I wouldn't put a dime into the outboard until its been run for a few hours. Reason why is if the bearings are pitted at all its going to crap out. If you look you'll see a 1/2" dia tube that went into the water pump, the pump now is off but you can hook up a hose to that tube. Now you can run the engine of extended periods of time with it hooked up to water.

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