Tying snells

[PikeTipper]

I'm looking to tie up a few new snells for opener but got hung up on a floater rig. On those prepackaged Lindy Rigs they have floats maybe an inch ahead of the hook. How to they get the float to stay that distance from the hook and not slide down the line all the way to the hook?

[fiskyknut]

Stick a bead on the line between hook and float, run line thru bead twice and it'll stay where you adjust it to.

fiskyknut

[ps70mlf]

a bobber stop also works good, that way u can adjust the distance of the float and hook. i like to hang mine about 6 inches above the hook

[beer batter]

I've had problems when running the line through the bead twice where it creates a weak point in the line. I had a few times last year where I was fighting a big fish only to end up have the line break off just below the point of the bead. I'd go with the bobber stops instead.

Nothing like reeling in and seeing that stinking bead at the end of your line knowing it's the culprit for why your line broke.

[Walleye Guy]

Run the line through the float twice. Meaning in one end and out the other and the repeat the process. No bead necessary. Over time the line will slice into the line if you are lucky enough to keep the snell for a while. I have found that pike really like snells with floating colored things hanging on them.

[PerchJerker]

beerbatter and ps7mlf have it right. Don't double the line through the bead or the float or you'll end up weakening it. Use a bobber stop (or peg it with a toothpick) to stop the float where you want it.

[Ole #1]

Why not just use a floating jig?

[beer batter]

I want my float to be a ways further down the snell from the hook. If I wanted the float to be right next to the hook I'd consider using a floating jig or not putting in a bead and letting the float go all the way down to the hook.

I prefer to have my live bait (be it leach or minnow) stand off on it's own a bit from the float so the float doesn't interfere with the natural movements of the bait. A minnow or leach does not move as well with the float right next to it.

[ccarlson]

I use a round toothpick. I prefer to insert the tip into the bottom (the hook side) of the float and then clip the toothpick with a line clipper. Don't pre clip them or you get cold hands and can't fit that little tip in there.

Separating the float from the hook is a good technique when the fish are a little more finicky. It also allows for a little better hook set and less short strikes because when the fish flares its gills, the mid snell float has created enough give in the line allowing the hook to be sucked in to the walleyes mouth.

Don't wrap around the bead or the float. I've broken off on good fish doing this.

ccarlson

[Ole #1]

I haven't lindy rigged that way before. Usually, I will just use a bottom bouncer, 3-10 ft snell and a bare hook or a floating jig with a much shorter snell.

Have you guys ever used a worm blower on leeches? It works great and will get the leech to float.

Ole

[beer batter]

Never used a worm/leech blower. I've heard they work OK but it just seems to me like it would not be all that convenient. Have to stick a syringe into a skinny worm that already sliming and wiggly seems like more of a pain than putting a float a bit up the snell. Nothing against those that choose to use them, just not for me.

[IFallsRon]

Check out netknots and fishingcairns for some great information and diagrams.

[MuleSkinner]

I second IFallsRon on the fishingcairns site. Has good knot tying diagrams at http://www.fishingcairns.com.au/page6-1.html