Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

What line is best?


Recommended Posts

I have always liked TUF line in 80 lb test. I use the TUF line plus now a days. I actually think the three main superlines of TUF Line, Power Pro, and Spectron are pretty equal. It just comes down to a personal preference. They all are hard to beat compared to the old dacron days!

David Swenson

http://muskieguide.homestead.com/

http://baileystackle.homestead.com/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don’t know if there is a “best” line…..its sorta what works the best for you. I have been using Tuff Plus 80lbs for the past couple of years and I like it. I tried Power Pro 50lbs last summer on my small buck tail rod and I didn’t like it at all. It kept digging into the reel. It probably would have worked better at 80lbs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My line of chioce hands down is Power Pro, 80 or 100 lbs. One thing I have noticed about Tuff line is that it retains alot of water and that really sucks when it's 30 above outside. I have heard this is less of a problem with Tuff XP, but I'll stay with the power pro.

"Best Line" they are all good, it's all about personal preference.

Esox23

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i love the power pro #80. we had a big discussion a year or so ago, the guys warned about using the #50 cause of its' smaller dia. it had a tendancy to dig into the reel and could cross and cut is self too. no problem with the 80.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, that is what I thought was causing my problem...it would dig into the spool and I would get a birds nest on the next cast. I would assume going to a big dia. would solve the problem.

I also wanted to correct myself, the line I use is Tuff XP..the one with the lighting strike pic on the package...and I have not noticed it holding much water. I think I will give Power Pro another chance this coming season..just going to bump it up to 80lbs. grin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lost, I use it on my flipping and pitching sticks. It works great around wood. I have not seen any difference in the fish mood if the water is off-colored. Dont use it in clear water, you certainly dont have to set the hook as hard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hiya,

Ive been using SpiderWire Stealth the last couple seasons, and really like the stuff. Stays round, lays down on the spool nice, and best of all, doesn't hold as much water as some other braids. I generally use either 80 or 100# - no rhyme or reason as to when I use which - just whatever happens to be on the rod a pick up.

I use mono quite a bit too though. We use 100# superbraids, but the break strength is irrelevent - it's the diamater that makes the heavy braid a necessity with big baits. Really, the muskie hasn't been born you can't whip on 20lb. mono and a flipping stick. I use mono casting smaller cranks and some small topwaters, small spinnerbaits, etc. Mostly do this in MN rather than Ontario, since there's not as much in the way of rocks and heavy cover to abrade the line.

I also use mono open water trolling, especially if I'm using planer boards. Mono holds in the board releases a lot better, and my hooking and holding percentage is far better with mono. While the fish is on and the board's still hooked to the line, the stretch in mono takes up a lot of the shock - it's like having the fish on a big rubber band. Whether casting or trolling, I use Berkley Big Game - either 20 or 25 lb.

Cheers,

RK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.