Heater suggestions

[Amandafish]

I tried to do a search here but did not have any luck.

We have a 8x16 perm. that is just about complete, one of the last things to do is find a heater, a friend suggested a Empire heater but with a price of $600.00, that is not gonna fly, it seems like alot and also the fact it can be stolen.

So we are thinking about a PRO COM radiant LP heater 25,000 btus and cost $160.00

it has a oxygen depletion sensor that will shut off the gas flow, if the oxygen level falls below safe levels.

If any one has this type of heater or reasons we should not go this route I would appreciate it.

Thanks, Amanda

[ScottND]

You may want to look at This link first...I'm have no pros or cons to you using one but I just ran into this.

[sorry, the unauthorized link has been removed. M-H]

[korn_fish]

Amandafish -

I have something similar. It is a comfort glo blue flame heater. Price similar to what you are talking about. I sleep in my shelter all the time but I have a CO detector as well. My detector has a digital display so I can see if levels are rising well before they are dangerous. I can not get it to register above 0 with my blue flame heater, but with a sunflower type heater it goes off within 30 minutes.

I strongly recommend getting a heater with a thermostat. My house is a 7x16 and I have a 25,000 BTU with thermostat. It has variable settings of 1-10 and I seldom have it at 2. Usually somewhere between 1 and 2, and many times at its lowest setting.

I went the route of teh ventless heater for one of the exact reasons you mentioned. Theft. I can unhook the heater, slide the hose through the wall and take it all home with me.

I agree with everyone that pushes the vented heaters that they are more failsafe than a vented, but with the appropriate precautions and safety measures (a good CO detector) you should be happy with the heater you mention.

It has been mentioned that the blue flame heaters provide a more comfortable heat as it heats the air and not objects first. Which means, if you are sitting in front of the heater, a blue flame heater isn't going to bake your back/leg etc. when everything else around is cold.

A 25,000 BTU blue flame heats my shack up in as little as 5 minutes.

I am happy with my decision.

[Eric Wettschreck]

I'll take what Korn said a little further. I have a 7 x 10 very well insulated permanent. I use the 10,000 btu outdoorsman non-vented heater made by reddy heater. That little dude works wonders for me. Takes about 5 minutes to heat up the shack. Costed me about 160 bucks.

I'll always go with convection (blue flame) over radiant heat any day for the reasons Korn stated. CO detector is an absolute must. In a bigger house it doesn't hurt to have 2.

Also, if you have 12v wiring, I recommend getting a little computer fan. They are wisper quiet. Angle it slightly down to move air to the floor area. It will help keep the bottom foot of your shanty toasty warm also.

Good luck!!!!!!!!

[GoodToGo]

Has anyone had a problem with moisture in the house with the vent-frees? Venting also vents moisture, without it I would worry about condensation in the house. I will be putting a bigger heater in my permanent next year. This is the only outstanding question I have before I put in a vent free blue flame.

[FishnBear]

I also have the Outdoorsman Heater that the Boilerguy is talking about $150.00 at Fleet Farm, It comes with a hose to hook to a 20lb tank. I use it in a 6.5 x 10 house and it provides more than enough heat, I didn't have any problems with moisture. I love it great heater.

[korn_fish]

My windows fog up the first couple minutes when the house first heats up. But it's gone in a few minutes. I don't have any condensation build up anywhere that I can see.

There is a big mis-conception with vent free heaters. With a vent free heater, you will still need to crack a window or have some sort of venting. I have two windows in mine and the tops of each is cracked anywhere from 1/8th inch to 1/2 inch based on wind and how much air is being blown in. Although my CO test I did was with the house sealed up as tight as it could be.

If anything, cracking the tops of the window helps circulate air and keeps the tempurature in the house more stabalized from floor to ceiling.

I installed a thermometer that also tells humidity levels in the house. During hunting season, I noticed that the humidity levels actually went down when the heater was on. I think condensation comes more from voids in the insulation/shoddy manufacturing of the house, then the actuall heater. Although a bi-product of burning propane is H2O, ventilation (i.e. windows cracked) will take care of that bi-product and the interior heat will take care of the rest.

[GoodToGo]

Thanks Korn, very informative post.

[swampman]

I have a pro com in my house this will be the fourth year on it, mine is a size smaller than the one you are looking at but is more than enough to heat my 6 by 12. mine doesnt have a thermostat and I really wish it did as it can be a pain adjusting it up and down. also when putting on a new lp cylinder it is a pain trying to get it to light (air in lines when you switch tanks) you have to keep pressing the igniter button till the pilot takes off. I havent had any problems with it otherwise and it does heat up the house very fast. above guys all make some good points. hope this helps.

[Amandafish]

We are going to get one with a thermostat, the guy I spoke with at Northern said to get radiant for the reason you guys mentioned but he must of been mixed up.

There is no wiring yet that will have to wait we are just trying to get the basics done now so the house is fishable.

I will definetly pick a CO detecter.

I am still trying to figure out what to use on the bunks, I looked around online for some type of foam at the fabric and craft stores but did not find anything, I thought about picking up some of thoose egg crate foam pads and cuting them half, it would prob take two pads for each bunk to get them thick enough, any better ideas?

Thanks guys for all the help.

Hopefully we will be on the ice Sunday watching the game

[Moose-Hunter]

I have a suggestion for you concerning foam for your bunks. Grab the yellow pages. there's a few actual "foam" dealers that will sell to the general public. Some places will even do custom cuts for you to virtually eliminate that "forced to buy extra" problem.

As far as what to get, a good quality, high density closed cell foam would be my pick. The high density type foam will "wear" better and actually give you better support in the thinner thicknesses needed for bunks. And closed cell, so they do not absorb moisture. Which can lead to all sorts of less than desireable things...

This type of foam may be a bit more expensive, but in the long run, the initial investment is well worth it.

[tomfromblaine]

how about lawn chair pads, probably can get a good deal on those martha stewart jobs at k-mart they look pretty comfy durable also. P.S. where do you get those pro-com heaters?

[Amandafish]

I have been looking online at Northern Tool and Equipment,

Call ahead with a model # and see what stores have what it is kinda hit or miss if you just stop by.

Also they said print out any sale price online and bring it with and they will honor that price.

[korn_fish]

I got my padding from Hancocks fabric (or something along that name) in Hopkins. I bought the 4" stuff and it is almost too much padding. It came in 24"X72" and was pretty much a perfect fit. In my previous permanent, I just used the padding that came with a cot purchased at wal-mart.

the padding I bought at Hancocks was around $70 for each bunk. I think I seen a fish house supply place that sold some polyurethane mattresses for that same price but theres at least had a cloth cover already.