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Adam NWI

Hydraulic Frames

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I'm getting pretty far ahead of myself, but I'm beginning to wonder if another trailer ramp spring would be the way to go for raising the back bunk.  I've never used one before, but I'm sure you can set the tension so it's well below the maximum and it wouldn't take so much effort to pull it down.  Just put up some guide rails and spring latches to latch it in the down position.  Any thoughts?

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I worked all weekend and got the siding up.  I was hoping to have the diamond plate and the roof on too, but I guess that will wait for next weekend along with the ramp furring strips and wiring.  I should be able to put up the plywood for the roof and the furring strips during the week in my shed since I won't need heat for that.

 

 

 

I called around Friday looking for a spray foamer in my area.  Apparently our local painting company no longer does spray foam.  I had guys that weren't interested, to guys that would do it for 2000 if I supplied a heated building to do it in.  Finally I found a guy about an hour away from me who has done several fish houses before and quoted me 1600 and can do it in his own shop.  I was expecting between 1000 and 1500, so it's just a little over my high end.  Does that sound reasonable on a 21' fish house?

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Sounds reasonable.  We were just under that at a guy up north west of the metro and we had a 16 footer.  Called about 10-15 places and that was the low side of average.  

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There sure isn't any rhyme or reason to the costs. I think you stand a lot better chance for a good price in the summer though when you can take your house to a job site and they don't have set up and clean up costs involved. 

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Keep in mind its technically winter and by foaming it in "his" shop he is doing a service to you and you are paying for it.  Your house will need to be at least 50 degrees to foam it.  I just had my 8x16 floor sprayed in my shop this past sat and it was $220.  The guys that did mine are done for the season, getting too cold to travel and keep the chemicals from freezing. 

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23 hours ago, aczr2k said:

Keep in mind its technically winter and by foaming it in "his" shop he is doing a service to you and you are paying for it.  Your house will need to be at least 50 degrees to foam it.  I just had my 8x16 floor sprayed in my shop this past sat and it was $220.  The guys that did mine are done for the season, getting too cold to travel and keep the chemicals from freezing. 

Is there foam adhesion or expansion problems when the temp is below 50*? I understand the freezing part just wondering on the actual application part.

 

How much foam did your house take? I calculated around 375 Sq feet @ 2" or 750 board feet.

Edited by vtx1029

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You can do it yourself with froth packs at Menards. It expensive but at the price you were quoted it would work out but you still need a warm place to do it. 

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1 hour ago, vtx1029 said:

Is there foam adhesion or expansion problems when the temp is below 50*? I understand the freezing part just wondering on the actual application part.

 

How much foam did your house take? I calculated around 375 Sq feet @ 2" or 750 board feet.

I don't think it will adhere to the surface very well under 50 degrees.  Especially on the bottom, it could create some real problems if it doesn't stick very well!

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I'm not sure on how much foam it took.  It has over 2" on the bottom.  What happens with the cold surface is you have to "flash" the surface with foam then go over it again, it uses more chemical to do the same job.  So the price to do a cold house is more.  The foam comes out hot & creates more heat during the chemical reaction.  

 

The froth paks were more expensive than having it done in my case.

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I got a little more progress done over the weekend.  Most of the diamond plate is done, just need to do the trim around the top of the wheel wells and around the windows as well as the back side.  Believe it or not, I already went through an entire case of 60 mil VHB tape as well as the two rolls I bought of 45 mil tape.  I guess I'll need to order another roll.  When it's all said and done, I'll have over $500 worth of tape in this thing!!!

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I'll be working on wiring hopefully this weekend and I'm trying to decide where to put the furnace.  I have a Suburban NT-30SP Forced Air Furnace and I'm trying to keep it on the same side of the house as my oven so I don't have propane lines ran all over, but it's not leaving me a whole lot of options without extending my counters more than I'd like to.

 

Has anyone mounted a furnace like this under a bench/bunk?  Would that be too loud to sleep over, or would it vibrate at all?  I've never used one of these before so I don't really know what they sound like.

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2 hours ago, Adam NWI said:

I'll be working on wiring hopefully this weekend and I'm trying to decide where to put the furnace.  I have a Suburban NT-30SP Forced Air Furnace and I'm trying to keep it on the same side of the house as my oven so I don't have propane lines ran all over, but it's not leaving me a whole lot of options without extending my counters more than I'd like to.

 

Has anyone mounted a furnace like this under a bench/bunk?  Would that be too loud to sleep over, or would it vibrate at all?  I've never used one of these before so I don't really know what they sound like.

Will likely cause noise in a bed.  How high is your stove?  Our furnace is mounted right under our stove with plenty of clearance to get at both.  Propane lines are one of the few things I wanted as short and straight as possible.

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31 minutes ago, Moon Lake Refuge said:

Will likely cause noise in a bed.  How high is your stove?  Our furnace is mounted right under our stove with plenty of clearance to get at both.  Propane lines are one of the few things I wanted as short and straight as possible.

Under my stove is the hydraulic pump to raise and lower the house.  It's possible I could pivot that around the wheel well and then fit my furnace under the stove.  I'll have to look and see how much slack I have in my hydraulic hose.  That would be the best case scenario for me I think.

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I have the same furnace.  It's actually quieter than I thought it would be.  The Atwood 18k in my old house was noisier.  I mounted mine under the front couch.  The plan is to box it in & sound deaden the plywood like Lip Ripper did.  I wanted it in the middle of the house to blow heat to the back and also at the door.  My last house had the furnace in the front & 16' is too far to push heat.

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12 hours ago, aczr2k said:

I have the same furnace.  It's actually quieter than I thought it would be.  The Atwood 18k in my old house was noisier.  I mounted mine under the front couch.  The plan is to box it in & sound deaden the plywood like Lip Ripper did.  I wanted it in the middle of the house to blow heat to the back and also at the door.  My last house had the furnace in the front & 16' is too far to push heat.

Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear.  If I can't fit mine in front of the wheel well I may end up doing the same thing.  If it's still a little loud I can always pass that bunk off to one of my buddies!

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I got one of my first cushions in yesterday from Clarkfield Outdoors recommended by rl_sd in another thread.  I've gotta say it's way better than I expected and I've got several more coming.  They may be a little more expensive than doing it yourself, but they're great to work with and I got my first cushion the day after ordering!  If you need custom sizes, just order the closest size to what you're looking for and type the actual size in the order comments and they'll make it for the same price.  Your whole order will ship for $9!

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I didn't get nearly as much done as I wanted, but I was able to take my new fish house out on the ice last weekend.  Fishing was slow for most of the weekend, but we had a good time otherwise.

 

I have some of the lights and tv mounted up temporarily till I start putting up the carsiding.  I'm just a little nervous about starting on the carsiding until I know exactly how to do my lift bunks.  I'd hate to put all that up and realize I don't have my furring in the right spot.

 

Furnace ducts are also ran temporarily, they'll be covered by cabinets when it's all said and done.  Most of the day saturday we didn't need the furnace anyways.  The sun kept it 10 degrees higher than what we set the furnace at!

 

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Just to clarify, the Berkon trailer will have brakes on the axles but it will not come with the breakaway controller or switch....at least mine didn't. 

I looked for the pine at menards and ran into the same trouble as you. They stopped carrying the type they used to have. The link that was posted is what they now have but it just looks different. Each plank has a "bead board" type profile. Just thought I'd mention it since it will look like bead board not carsiding in case you care. 

 

Ooops...didn't read far enough, nevermind

Edited by Papa Bear

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1 minute ago, Papa Bear said:

Just to clarify, the Berkon trailer will have brakes on the axles but it will not come with the breakaway controller or switch....at least mine didn't. 

I looked for the pine at menards and ran into the same trouble as you. They stopped carrying the type they used to have. The link that was posted is what they now have but it just looks different. Each plank has a "bead board" type profile. Just thought I'd mention it since it will look like bead board not carsiding in case you care. 

I've seen them switch three times now.  Its usually always some kind of reversible plank though that is beaded on one side and flat on the other.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Next up was installing the floor. We went with 3/4” marine grade plywood. I also coated both sides and all edges with a water sealer just to be sure.    After installing the plywood floor we put the furring strips in and ran the wiring.    Each wire goes back the front wall where I made a little panel. The front wall has an opening for a 55” TV that sits flush in the wall. The little squares above and below the tv opening are for in wall speakers.  This is half of the wires the other side of the panel has the other half.  This is all the positive wires coming through the front wall and behind the panel. I forgot to take a picture of the back of the panel after I cleaned it up and put the negative wires through.  Here is a picture of the front of the panel while I was booking everything up. All the positive wires on the left and negative on the right. My wiring is a lot different than most shacks. I’ve never made a panel like this before so I didn’t really know what to order. The terminals that the wires go into are called din rail terminal blocks the snap onto a little piece of aluminum called a din rail.  Later I found stackable ones that would have saved space but I like how it turned out. Each terminal block has a slot in it where you can put a jumper. So everything that was going to be on one switch would be jumpered together. Things on a different switch would be jumpered and so on. The terminal blocks have a hole on the top where one wire comes in and gets screwed down to hold it and there is the same on the bottom. So once the terminal blocks are jumpered to things you want on the same switch you only need one wire out the bottom. Things that were ran off of the switch went out the bottom and over to the relay board. You do the same for each thing you want to run off a different switch just run a wire to a different relay. The long green rectangle thing on the right is a relay board. Our house has 12 light switches not all of them are used yet but they can be so I bought a relay board with 12 spdt relays. The green square on the left is an arduino which is basically like a mini computer chip that you can program. I’ll explain more once I get to what our switches look like. The bottom right of the panel is for the trailer lights and brakes and all the stuff that hooks up to the truck.  I eventually replaced these normal terminal blocks with the din rail style.  Here is the wiring panel all finished up.  The reason for using all the relays and arduino was so I could use this light switch and eventually be able to control everything from a smart phone. In the fish house we have 2 of these switches which each have 6 buttons on them. Each switch has a set of cat 5 cable running to it. One set is connected to the atduino board and sends a signal saying the button was pressed.  The other cat 5 wire is to send a signal to turn on and off a little light next to the button when it is pressed   Here is the back of the switch. So basically how it works is the arduino has pins on it that can send or receive signals it also has pins that can send 5 vdc or 3vdc. So one wire from the arduinos 5 v pin hooks up to the back of the switch where it says sc (switch common 5v coming in). A different wire connects a different arduino 5 v pin to the terminal that says pc (pilot common which is just the little lights next to the buttons). So when a button is pressed a brief 5 v signal is sent from the arduino to the switch which goes through board on the switch and to the wire terminal that is for that button the signal is then sent back to a digital pin (receiving pin) of the arduino on a digital pin. The arduino has to be programmed to receive different signals on the pins you want. Once the arduino sees that a button was pressed it sends a signal over to the relay board saying a button was pressed close the relay that corresponds to that button. When the relay closes it allows the 12v to go to whatever you want to turn on. The nice thing about how this system works is everything can be changed in a matter of minutes. Say I wanted to have the ceiling lights be on button 4 instead of 1 you just have to change a couple of numbers in the code and plug the arduino into your computer and upload the updated code. I’m sure I lost most people right away and I’m not sure if anyone else would even want to do something similar but If so you can message me and I can try and explain it better. Before this I’ve never done anything like this so I had to learn all of this online and how to write little bits of code and do all that which was fun but also frustrating at times since I didn’t have anyone to go to with my questions.  Not sure If this video will work or not.  4B8EE058-806B-4BF6-8DD8-8FC76BE46BD0.MOV  
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