Switches/ outlets/ fixtures

[Moon Lake Refuge]

I'm probably nearing my quota of new posts but its been a slow day on here so what the heck.  Looking to see what others have used for outlets/ switches and other fixtures both inside and out.  Probably looked at a million online in recent months but would like some input on how they look in others houses.  What have you used? What would you do differently?

Thanks!

[YettiStyle]

Haha slow day here too dreaming of fishing.  I'll just links to everything I used.  If you have Amazon Prime - it's a real convenience but easy to get carried away.

2 switch light switch - very smooth and looks pretty decent.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC144M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

1 switch light switch - same as above

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC8MW4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Dimmer switch - I love this thing, very easy to adjust the light levels and it looks great!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S667XZA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Battery switch - These are the best.  This is the 2 battery switch so you can switch between having both off, battery #1 on, battery #2 on, or battery #1 and #2 on. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2MCR2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Rocker switch - If you are installing an amp for a surround sound/speaker system you will want the ability to switch it on/off because they pull a lot of juice.  Just connect this between your battery/hot line and the REM on your amplifier. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI1HFQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Here is another "switch" I think is very convenient.  It's intended use is for a TV with limited inputs so you can easily switch between a DVD player, blueray, VCR, ect without having to unplug anything.  What I use it for is actually just for an audio selector switch to my amplifier/speakers.  Amps usually take RCA inputs so I have 3 inputs (TV #1, TV #2, and a phone jack for Pandora/youtube) connected to this and I can easily switch between having surround sound watching a movie to pumping some ice fishing tunes through the speakers in the matter of 1 second by using this switch.  If you're interested in this, let me know and I can help you set this up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNCPR92?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

 

As far as outlets go I just used the standard $1.99 black tamper resistant outlets and black covers from Menards.  Tamper resistant are nice because you can leave things plugged in (TV) and don't have to worry about them falling out when going down the road.  I did install a GFCI outlet at the beginning of my circuit just for peace of mind and since I had the room, not totally necessary though. 

Any questions, let me know!

 

 

Edited February 25, 2016 by YettiStyle

[Moon Lake Refuge]

17 minutes ago, YettiStyle said:

Haha slow day here too dreaming of fishing.  I'll just links to everything I used.  If you have Amazon Prime - it's a real convenience but easy to get carried away.

2 switch light switch - very smooth and looks pretty decent.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC144M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

1 switch light switch - same as above

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC8MW4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Dimmer switch - I love this thing, very easy to adjust the light levels and it looks great!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S667XZA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Battery switch - These are the best.  This is the 2 battery switch so you can switch between having both off, battery #1 on, battery #2 on, or battery #1 and #2 on. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2MCR2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Rocker switch - If you are installing an amp for a surround sound/speaker system you will want the ability to switch it on/off because they pull a lot of juice.  Just connect this between your battery/hot line and the REM on your amplifier. 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI1HFQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Here is another "switch" I think is very convenient.  It's intended use is for a TV with limited inputs so you can easily switch between a DVD player, blueray, VCR, ect without having to unplug anything.  What I use it for is actually just for an audio selector switch to my amplifier/speakers.  Amps usually take RCA inputs so I have 3 inputs (TV #1, TV #2, and a phone jack for Pandora/youtube) connected to this and I can easily switch between having surround sound watching a movie to pumping some ice fishing tunes through the speakers in the matter of 1 second by using this switch.  If you're interested in this, let me know and I can help you set this up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNCPR92?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

 

As far as outlets go I just used the standard $1.99 black tamper resistant outlets and black covers from Menards.  Tamper resistant are nice because you can leave things plugged in (TV) and don't have to worry about them falling out when going down the road.  I did install a GFCI outlet at the beginning of my circuit just for peace of mind and since I had the room, not totally necessary though. 

Any questions, let me know!

 

 

Good info!  As for stereo, no sub in our house.  I may eventually amplify the speakers but dont nee booming sound on the ice.  I have my camper to set that up in for the summer!  Also I'm running a full RV stereo that runs blutooth, dvd and has four speaker zones.  I'm going to throw dimmers on the two inside zones for the speakers so you can adjust the volume inside.  I was going to do individual controls on each speaker but the pairs are so close I dont think its necessary.  Will have the ability to swap from DVD to counsole right at the radio.  Like the switches you have.  Will be getting a double at the door and putting about 6-10 singles in at various places.  We are putting reading lights at every bed and will likely be running one switch to each set of two hole lights.(Left wheel well, right wheel well and sofa holes.)  No hole light for the hole by the toilet but will need another ceiling light in there.  Pretty much decided on running a generator a good chunk of time now so I'm pretty much done counting my watts!

 

Quick question on the switches.  I dont see having a lot of clearance behind the wall.  Did you have to shave out any insulation to get them to fit?

Thanks,

Edited February 25, 2016 by Moon Lake Refuge

[YettiStyle]

10 minutes ago, Moon Lake Refuge said:

Good info!  As for stereo, no sub in our house.  I may eventually amplify the speakers but dont nee booming sound on the ice.  I have my camper to set that up in for the summer!  Also I'm running a full RV stereo that runs blutooth, dvd and has four speaker zones.  I'm going to throw dimmers on the two inside zones for the speakers so you can adjust the volume inside.  I was going to do individual controls on each speaker but the pairs are so close I dont think its necessary.  Will have the ability to swap from DVD to counsole right at the radio.  Like the switches you have.  Will be getting a double at the door and putting about 6-10 singles in at various places.  We are putting reading lights at every bed and will likely be running one switch to each set of two hole lights.(Left wheel well, right wheel well and sofa holes.)  No hole light for the hole by the toilet but will need another ceiling light in there.  Pretty much decided on running a generator a good chunk of time now so I'm pretty much done counting my watts!

Being generator free is a nice concept but it's also just as expensive (if not more) and more of a headache.  Plus having a generator opens up a lot of possibilities - TVs, Fridge, Microwave, charging electric augers, ect.  I spend more in a weekend on beer than I do running my generator 24/7 haha. 

I like the idea of having lots of switches but just for convenience it probably would be a good idea to install one/two master switches so you can turn all the lights on/off instead of having to walk around and turn each one on/off when you want to leave.  Putting a double/triple switch near the door might be a good idea for you considering how many lights you're going to have.  Have you dimmer as a master for your ceiling lights then a master switch for your hole/reading lights and another switch for all your outside lights. 

[Moon Lake Refuge]

1 minute ago, YettiStyle said:

Being generator free is a nice concept but it's also just as expensive (if not more) and more of a headache.  Plus having a generator opens up a lot of possibilities - TVs, Fridge, Microwave, charging electric augers, ect.  I spend more in a weekend on beer than I do running my generator 24/7 haha. 

I like the idea of having lots of switches but just for convenience it probably would be a good idea to install one/two master switches so you can turn all the lights on/off instead of having to walk around and turn each one on/off when you want to leave.  Putting a double/triple switch near the door might be a good idea for you considering how many lights you're going to have.  Have you dimmer as a master for your ceiling lights then a master switch for your hole/reading lights and another switch for all your outside lights. 

We dont leave our house on the ice so when we need to kill power we are going to have a master shut off to kill power to everything at the battery.

[randerson]

I just used regular house switches single pole for the 12 volt stuff in my buddies house, work just as well 

[Mid-Lake Rock]

 I used standard light switches.  One is for the lights in the V front and the other is to turn on the small LEDs near the holes.  

I've also included a photo from the V front.  The white outlet on the left gets power directly from the generator.  As long as generator is running I have juice.  The black meter shows how much juice I have in the batteries.  Next to that are two toggle switches that we trimmed with diamond plate.  The toggle on left is for the battery charger and allows me to switch between the two for charging.  The other toggle is the main power.  When set in the middle it shuts off all power.  Up is battery one and down is battery two.  I have the inverter and a battery charger mounted down below.  I will often run battery one and charge battery two or vice versa.  Or just charge and run the same battery at the same time.  The two outlets I have near the stove require the inverter to be on to operate.  

Another thing we did that is pretty slick is mount a "video out" (don't know the exact name) outlet near the middle of the house and ran wire to the front, above the stove.  That way a guy in the back can use a camera, run a short video cable to the outlet and watch it on the TV up front.  

For satellite, I have an input outlet outside the house that runs to the TV inside.  The box outside has a cover, so I don't worry about the elements.  Run the cable from the dish to the input.

[Moon Lake Refuge]

How did you all install outlet boxes in your walls?  Sprayfoam around it or scrape some foam out of the wall to fit them in?

Thanks,

[brian6715]

I did the exact same thing, all of my light switches are standard 110v switches, as I wanted my house to have a solid "living room" type of feel to it. Used shallow boxes and I cut my foam out with a knife and slid the boxes in, worked great. 

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

I always do the shallow boxes before spray foam, and have them foamed around.  Works pretty well.  I finally found a 2 gang shallow box online, so that will help tidy up some of my switches and outlets a little bit.  

[Moon Lake Refuge]

20 minutes ago, Lip_Ripper Guy said:

I always do the shallow boxes before spray foam, and have them foamed around.  Works pretty well.  I finally found a 2 gang shallow box online, so that will help tidy up some of my switches and outlets a little bit.  

We're sprayed already but I'm thinking if I carve the outlets out and squirt in some non-expanding foam when I put the box in I should have a nice tight fit.  Did you run boxes to your light fixtures and 12v receptacles or just pull the wire straight through the wood?

 

[Mid-Lake Rock]

3 hours ago, Moon Lake Refuge said:

How did you all install outlet boxes in your walls?  Sprayfoam around it or scrape some foam out of the wall to fit them in?

Thanks,

Moon - That will work.  There is always some small amount of foam you will need to remove for things you forgot.  I also made sure I had all the foam off the studs before mounting the furring strips.  This tool was the best for cutting out sections of foam or cleaning up spots.  

 

 

Edited February 26, 2016 by Mid-Lake Rock

[Moon Lake Refuge]

32 minutes ago, Mid-Lake Rock said:

Moon - That will work.  There is always some mall amount of foam you will need to remove for things you forgot.  I also made sure I had all the foam off the studs before mounting the furring strips.  This tool was the best for cutting out sections of foam or cleaning up spots.  

 

 

Will try that if it comes to it.  We don't have our paneling on yet and I heard on here somewhere a wire brush on a drill or dremmel works well but if that don't do it I may just tell the Mrs. that its time for a new tool!

Alright, never mind I'm buying one.

Edited February 26, 2016 by Moon Lake Refuge

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

The drill or angle grinder and a stiff wire attachment work very well.  

[Moon Lake Refuge]

2 hours ago, Lip_Ripper Guy said:

The drill or angle grinder and a stiff wire attachment work very well.  

Yours must be the post I saw it on!

[landscaper]

Has anyone used any LED strip lights from this company?    Tonys Rec. Lighting  From, Sauk Centre MN?

http://tonysreclighting.com

Thanks Guys

[Hawg]

Those look pretty expensive compared to some online.

[Moon Lake Refuge]

On 2/28/2016 at 9:43 AM, Hawg said:

Those look pretty expensive compared to some online.

Yeah, they look extremely spendy.  I like buying local but not at 10 to 1 rates.  They could likely sell for quite a bit cheaper and still turn a profit.