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Ice cabin Owners?


Iron Cowboy

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newbie question. Bought a 2015 hold over. Do you set directly down on the ice? If so what do you do if a jack goes out? I know ice castle guys can just put a new cable on if one breaks but we cant do that. I asked a guy at the dealership and he said you always need a secondary lift option and to block it up enough so you can get a hi-lift jack under it if needed. or he personally had tabs welded on his frame to be able to lift with the jack when all the way down on the ice. messing around with mine today I found I needed a 2x4 on top of a 4x4 to block high enough to fit the jack under it when down.  I have hole sleeves and with snow could bank it and probably be fine this way but would like to be closer to the ice. So without having to weld tabs on the frame how else could a guy get it lifted? I wont set it all the way down unless I have a way to get it back up manually, I'm one of those guys that doesnt want to take chances and wont go without a plan B and calling people hoping someone can help.

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Ours has a hand crank over-ride. We needed to use it a couple of times as we would blow the fuse on the front jack. It's slow and the small floor jack worked better. 

 

We we always set ours directly on the ice. Only time it was ever blocked was if we were going to leave it for several days without heat. 

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newbie question. Bought a 2015 hold over. Do you set directly down on the ice? If so what do you do if a jack goes out? I know ice castle guys can just put a new cable on if one breaks but we cant do that. I asked a guy at the dealership and he said you always need a secondary lift option and to block it up enough so you can get a hi-lift jack under it if needed. or he personally had tabs welded on his frame to be able to lift with the jack when all the way down on the ice. messing around with mine today I found I needed a 2x4 on top of a 4x4 to block high enough to fit the jack under it when down.  I have hole sleeves and with snow could bank it and probably be fine this way but would like to be closer to the ice. So without having to weld tabs on the frame how else could a guy get it lifted? I wont set it all the way down unless I have a way to get it back up manually, I'm one of those guys that doesnt want to take chances and wont go without a plan B and calling people hoping someone can help.

a floor jack is much better than a hi lift and if you have to you use a hatchet the chop away enough ice to get one under there if you choose  not to block it up.

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I would never block a fish house up 6"+ all the time for the off chance that your jacks won't work.  Then you may as well just buy an enclosed trailer and skip the whole lowering mechanism.  It'll save a pile of money and hassle.

A small floor jack should work well, and use a ice chisel or hatchet to create clearance.  

 

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Thanks guys, your right. the floor jack/ hatchet job is I think  the best backup plan. Hey westguy, In the years youve had yours  ever had to use the manual over-ride? any other tips from guys that have had one of these a while can give me to lessen the learning curve is much appreciated.

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In my Firebrand I have blown countless fuses with my jacks, they blow a fuse anytime you raise them to their highest possible position. I got good at always having fuses on hand. I installed inline breakers and haven't had an issue since, and have never had to use the manual override. 

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I have a 2014, 2 years on ice with it. Never blown a fuse. Never had an problem with a jack. There is a manual crank on most of them, but I know they changed jacks on the 2015's. I would assume there is still an option. I just needed to pop a cap off and find the size of the nut on the top, and then added the correct size tools to the tool kit.

I always have spare tools, fuses, etc just in case. But I'd do that with anything.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about setting it all the way down. That is what they are built for. (just block it up if you are leaving it unattended)

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One thing I would suggest, is either installing a main battery cut off switch, or keeping it plugged in all the time or very frequently. I think there are quite a few small battery drains from all of the different systems in these things. (smoke and co detectors, radio, furnace,etc) I had some battery issues my first season and the only thing I can attribute it to is slow drains.

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Sorry IC somehow my post didn't enter before I am new to this as well as I just bought my ice cabin and am trying to figure everything out too. Thanks Gus you have had some great info for us new ice cabin owners.

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One thing I would suggest, is either installing a main battery cut off switch, or keeping it plugged in all the time or very frequently. I think there are quite a few small battery drains from all of the different systems in these things. (smoke and co detectors, radio, furnace,etc) I had some battery issues my first season and the only thing I can attribute it to is slow drains.

A master switch installed in a convenient location is very useful I did it to mine and am very glad I  did it.

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I was told when I bought mine that when plugged into my truck it is charging the batteries. Has anyone tried this just plugging the connector back into there vehicle to charge the batteries running the truck so often instead of a generator?

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There is some output from your truck to the trailer and it can charge the batteries, however the amps are not incredibly high. It would likely take a really long time just idling your truck to make any real progress in actually "charging" the batteries up from a low state.

I do like to leave my truck plugged in and running while I'm operating the jacks to help save on some battery. I've also had to run my truck to get the furnace to run enough to heat up the cabin when I was having both battery and generator troubles. it's a nice backup, safety, thing, but I wouldn't really count on charging your batteries at idle. Maybe on a 2 hour trip up north, but not in a typical outing on the lake.

 

 

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