Chokes tubes?

[Dano2]

Finally picked up my M1 the other day, adn was suprised the owners manuel didn't really give any info on what choke tube is best to use for what.

Heres the deal, I hunt upland game, mostley pheasant and then shoot some clays occasionally.

My old Rem. model 11, was just your full choke, so sort of use to that.

My M1 came with 5 tubes,
Full
Improved Modified
modified
Improved Cylinder
skeet

I'm assuming early pheasant I would want to use one of the modifieds but not sure the difference, then later season probably the full.

Looking for suggestions.
thanks

[Dano2]

first time I shot it today.
Shot up a box of clays between the two of us.
My shoulder is sore, HEH.
I used the modified and thats probably what I'll stick with all year.
If I make any changes at all, it may be changing to Improved modified for early season, but not until I try it out with clays, and shooting at some cardboard targets with each so I can see what kind of pattern difference there is
thanks

[This message has been edited by Dano2 (edited 07-28-2003).]

[duckbuster]

I would also consider shooting at a big piece of cardboard from different distances to check the spreads. This is something I did after I purchased my 1st Bennelli. Keep in mind that lead and steel will hold different patterns as well.

I have found the improved cylinder works best for me. With steel, for ducks, the pattern is tighter and when hunting grouse I like to have a little wider pattern from close range.

[Dano2]

Thanks.
I have been trying to find a guide of some sort that gives you an idea of what each one does and the most practical use, or what rnage best used up to, anything that'll give me a better idea for these

Full
Improved Modified
modified
Improved Cylinder
skeet

I know between the full and modifieds the pattern is more spread on the modified ,
but not too sure about the other choke tubes.

Anyone know hwerre I can get more info.

thanks

P.S. yes, I'l be shooting at targets as well, so I can see for myself, but still curious what they say about each one as I'm assuming some are more for longer or shorter range shots. (lead shot) (pheasant)

[jeffyo45]

I use regular modified for early and late pheasants. My reason being if I can't get close enough to the birds to hit them with modified I am better off letting them go and hunting them up later. The only situation I can see using full for are for long shots while busting clays. The best way to find out what chokes work at what distances is to shoot lots of clays at different distances. You may want to consider getting some after market choke tubes as the ones that came with your gun may not be true. Just my $.02 If you have a good dog who is excellent at tracking cripples then by all means fire away at 50-60 yard birds. I just have never had much luck hitting them. Probably because I am not a great shooter. Hope you enjoy your new gun

[bigdog]

The pattern opens up more as you move down your list from Full to Skeet. Skeet is a slight choke, right above cylinder or basically no choke at all. Recommending chokes is pretty close to debating the best deer rifle cartridge. Select more open for up close, somewhere in the middle for 30-40 yds, and full for the long shots. It is highly dependent upon the ammo and somewhat variable between guns of the same model. The best bet is to pattern the gun with the ammo you plan on using at some different ranges.

For a starting point I shoot 3" #2 steel for duck/pheasant and use modified. When shooting 2 3/4" lead #4's and 5's I use modified, switching to full if the birds are spooky. I shoot skeet or improved cylinder with #7 1/2's to 9's for grouse. Use Skeet with #8's for sporting clays.

[Dano2]

Thanks folks for your inputs,

[Old Guide]

Dano2 , Duckbuster and bigdog have both stressed a very important point. Pattern your gun on paper with diff. chokes/loads. Spend a afternoon at the range with your new gun. It'll really surprise you what some chokes/load combos will do and not do! Good luck, keep us posted.

[Surface Tension]

I'll have to agree with whats been said.
Go to your recycle center and grab all the sheets of cardboard you can get a hold of. Time to do some testing. Be a little scientific here and record your results and label your targets. Otherwise your just shooting, which is fun anyway.
Make 30" circles and write the yardage, shot size, weight, brand and choke used. Your looking at pattern density and the center of the shot group so do a good job of aiming at the center of the circle. Take only one shot per target. If you change loads or brand shells that could/will change your patterns so go with what you've tested with and like.