2001 F150 5.4 L Triton Coolant Leak...Any guesses?

[kcota15]

That's correct. Intake manifold needs to be replaced. I am planning on replacing with the Dorman replacement kit. While everything is broken down, I am also going to replace plugs and coil packs. Seems like a big but doable job. I have a buddy that is going to help. Just wanted to hear any tips, tricks, and/or advice.

Also, if there is anything else you would replace while doing this job, please advise.

Thanking you all ahead of time.

[fishing tech]

If you are replacing the coils I would use Ford OEM and motorcraft spark plus. Check around with dealers for best price. Cost on coils is about $50ea.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Its all nuts and bolts. Keep track of those nuts and bolts and keep them organized. it will make install that much easier.

Get a 7mm 1/4" swivel socket. You will need it for the bolts for the coils. Mac tools works the best IMO.

Take pictures alog the way of various wire and hose routings, again it will make install that mush easier.

Use motorcraft or auto light spark plugs. O.E. style is your best bet.

[FF_205]

IMO, stay away from the autolites, seen it too many times that they were installed and had to take them out for motorcraft, then again I'm dealership tech and prefer O.E.M. equipment:)

[kcota15]

I ordered the parts last night. I went with the Motorcraft plugs. Thanks for the information.

[kcota15]

So yesterday I put the new intake in. It took me a while, but I took my time and made sure that I knew where everything went so I could put it all back together. I really took my time cleaning the mating surfaces as well as all of the coolant in the valley. It was a mess and took a while. I replaced the plugs as well as the coil packs. Put everything back together and fired it up.

Not the result I was hoping for. It started and ran a high idle, then started surging (rpms up and down). I pressed the gas and high idle again then surging. After running for a few minutes it seemed to idle better but I can hear a hissing sound coming from the drivers side of the engine. I let it run for a while and then took it for a drive. After driving for a few minutes it seemed to be running better. Definitely more power than before the work was done. I took it up to freeway speed and drove through town and it seemed to be running smootly. Then while I was stopped the Check Engine Light came on. I haven't had the codes checked yet but I am guessing it is a vacuum leak. I torqued the manifold to specs that were in the instructions using the torque sequence. I did notice that some of the vacuum hoses were dry but didn't see any cracks.

I am pretty defeated at this point since it is my daily driver. On top of that my wife's car is having issues. See another of my post on the Pontiac Grand Prix.

Anyway, I would like some advice from you all. Should I give up and bring it in, or are there some things I can try. I really hope the manifold itself isn't leaking. I really feel I did follow the directions and was very careful. By the way there doesn't appear to be any coolant leaks and it does drive well but has the high idle and surges sometimes when running at low speed.

Thanks for the help. I sure hope all this car dump gets solved soon for us.

[delcecchi]

If you can hear the hiss, my uneducated guess would be a vacuum leak. And if it is that bad it should be fairly easy to find. Can't a guy spray something around on hoses and fittings etc and watch for smoke or a change in idle or something? Fogging oil, wd40, chain lube, something?

[JOHNBIGDOG]

Brakeclean can be used, but its flammable.

A propane torch that is not lit can be used to detect vacuum leaks and is a little safer. The RPMs will change with the extra fuel being added to the intake air mix as you get closer to the leak.

[1968]

The gaskets are typically left and right on those engines. Maybe got them switched?

I would have spent the little extra on an OE intake.

[kcota15]

I used the Dorman manifold so no gaskets. I did check to make sure that all of the gaskets were in place on the manifold prior to installing.

I drove it this morning to work and it seemed to run fine (very minimal surging) but was running at a high idle unless I sat for an extended amount of time at a stop light etc.

I am thinking about replacing all of the vacuum lines and the IAC. The more I think about it and research it has to be one of the lines. Some of them were very dry. Didn't see any visible cracks but didn't look super close either. A mistake in retrospect.

[kcota15]

I just tried cleaning the IAC. No change. Fast idle and will only slow to around 800 rpms and this is after it sits 30 seconds or so. Starts at 1700 rpms.

I then tried unplugging the IAC. Engine ran the same. Does this indicate the IAC needs replacement?

I did try spraying some brake cleaner on a few spots and didn't find anything but am not very comfortable with this.

I hope this is the case but am not counting on it. If this isn't it I think the next step for me is bringing it in to see if a vacuum leak can be found.

[FF_205]

it sounds like a vaccum leak, I wouldn't put the money in a new IAC until you have the vacuum leak checked first, being this happen after you removed the intake and put new gaskets in, it could be as simple as a hose off but if you can not get the leak to show up with brake clean then a smoke test would be next, spend the money on that before a IAC

[Jeremy airjer W]

If it is surging there is a vacuum leak.

[kcota15]

It hasn't surged for a couple of days now just runs at high idle. As I said in my other response to you on the leaky Grand Prix. Pretty fed up with car issues right now and just want them both fixed so I am going to get it in so an expert can find the issue and solve it.

Thanks for the reply.